Drivetrain Stock Header With No Pre Cat?
[quote=Dr Obnxs]We all know that the nuts, bolts and springs supplied with the OBX suck. What does that have to do with the design principles? I can go find photos of crappy bellows, but it has nothing to do with whether the bellows restric flow more.
Your post is a perfect example of taking something out of context.
So you go get a better pair of springs, and double nut the sucker. $10 bucks more, and the whole kit would be under $200. (Mine was $185 shipped to my door).
Matt[/quot
read my thread starter and quite causing me greif, the question is does the mod stock header work without the pre cat. thats it nothing else.
cheers
Your post is a perfect example of taking something out of context.
So you go get a better pair of springs, and double nut the sucker. $10 bucks more, and the whole kit would be under $200. (Mine was $185 shipped to my door).
Matt[/quot
read my thread starter and quite causing me greif, the question is does the mod stock header work without the pre cat. thats it nothing else.
cheers
Originally Posted by willy69

NICEEEEEEE!!!! THIS WAS WITH ONLY ABOUT 160WHP
CHEERS
back to the thread - please post pics and any dyno results would live to see them.
*****,
I think you should leave the honeycomb where it is and just cut out everything in the blue box and replace with a pipe. I want to do this mod too.. what do you think?
Here is a guy in Australia who did this mod but he is not longer active... too bad or else he could help us on this..
I think you should leave the honeycomb where it is and just cut out everything in the blue box and replace with a pipe. I want to do this mod too.. what do you think?
Here is a guy in Australia who did this mod but he is not longer active... too bad or else he could help us on this..
I'd cut all the way to the flex...
Looking at the posted photo

you can see that the bends after the pre cat are smooth, but restrictive. So it seems that from above the pre-cat to right at the welds right about at the end of the blue box is the way to go. You;ll also have to get a bung for the 02 sensor welded on (I know, pretty obvious).
And Will, what do you expect when you're the one that starts calling other technology "Cheesy"... Way I see it, you opened the door.
Matt

you can see that the bends after the pre cat are smooth, but restrictive. So it seems that from above the pre-cat to right at the welds right about at the end of the blue box is the way to go. You;ll also have to get a bung for the 02 sensor welded on (I know, pretty obvious).
And Will, what do you expect when you're the one that starts calling other technology "Cheesy"... Way I see it, you opened the door.
Matt
Nope. Then you lose the bellows, and there's nothing to give when the motor moves. And somethings gotta give! Go to the base of the ring at the left side of the bellows in the photo above your post. Then you keep the bellows (need it in there), and you get rid of the pre-cat, and the part that looks like it's made of two halves welded into a tube....
If this all works well, it will displace the OBX as the price/performance leader!
Dispite the crap I gave Willy69
, I'm very curious to see how this all works out, Much more stealthy than the OBX with the heat shields in place....
Matt
If this all works well, it will displace the OBX as the price/performance leader!
Dispite the crap I gave Willy69
, I'm very curious to see how this all works out, Much more stealthy than the OBX with the heat shields in place....Matt
Originally Posted by Dr Obnxs
Looking at the posted photo

you can see that the bends after the pre cat are smooth, but restrictive. So it seems that from above the pre-cat to right at the welds right about at the end of the blue box is the way to go. You;ll also have to get a bung for the 02 sensor welded on (I know, pretty obvious).
And Will, what do you expect when you're the one that starts calling other technology "Cheesy"... Way I see it, you opened the door.
Matt

you can see that the bends after the pre cat are smooth, but restrictive. So it seems that from above the pre-cat to right at the welds right about at the end of the blue box is the way to go. You;ll also have to get a bung for the 02 sensor welded on (I know, pretty obvious).
And Will, what do you expect when you're the one that starts calling other technology "Cheesy"... Way I see it, you opened the door.
Matt
. i think you are probably right about the cut area, it will be easy to add the piece to the main cat.cheers
Originally Posted by Dr Obnxs
Looking at the posted photo

you can see that the bends after the pre cat are smooth, but restrictive. So it seems that from above the pre-cat to right at the welds right about at the end of the blue box is the way to go. You;ll also have to get a bung for the 02 sensor welded on (I know, pretty obvious).
And Will, what do you expect when you're the one that starts calling other technology "Cheesy"... Way I see it, you opened the door.
Matt

you can see that the bends after the pre cat are smooth, but restrictive. So it seems that from above the pre-cat to right at the welds right about at the end of the blue box is the way to go. You;ll also have to get a bung for the 02 sensor welded on (I know, pretty obvious).
And Will, what do you expect when you're the one that starts calling other technology "Cheesy"... Way I see it, you opened the door.
Matt
cheers
Originally Posted by resipsamcs
SFJames2:
I realize you have no empirical data, but did you notice a difference with the pre-cat removed? What are your observations?
I realize you have no empirical data, but did you notice a difference with the pre-cat removed? What are your observations?
....I think I got flames.
Originally Posted by Dr Obnxs
Nope. Then you lose the bellows, and there's nothing to give when the motor moves. And somethings gotta give!
Matt
Matt
to connect to the Cat. Sorry couldn't help myself. 
I too would like to see what this contributes to HP/TQ.
For the record, Ive had 4 cars with a spring/nut connection system, all of which are FWD, all over 200hp...and none of them ever slipped on me.
Also...even with an aftermarket high-flow cat (usually between 90-150) the OBX is still 1/2 (or less!!) the price of most cats, and equal to the Megan header after shipping. I for one would still consider that a deal.
Also...even with an aftermarket high-flow cat (usually between 90-150) the OBX is still 1/2 (or less!!) the price of most cats, and equal to the Megan header after shipping. I for one would still consider that a deal.
Emissions..
Shouldn't effect them at all, unless it's really cold out, but will be illegal (technically, you can't modify squat without exemptions on the parts, even if they make the exhaust CLEANER! Go Figure!) so if your local inspectors are ****, make sure it's all dirty and looks like it came that way from the factory... Maybe stamp Mini on the part? 
Matt

Matt
Originally Posted by sfjames2
I like it alot man! It makes the Borla race sound a little deeper at idle, pulls harder above 5000, but gets LOUD on it's way to redline, mine is still 6950 or whatever stock is, but I know I draw attention. One more thing I've observed since doing this is a loud a$$ BANG when shifting 2nd to 3rd at redline.
....I think I got flames.
....I think I got flames.
Originally Posted by Detonics
Sfjames2,
So, did you cut the section in blue box like the picture above and take a plain 2.5" pipe and weld it to the CAT and after the flange? Am I right?
So, did you cut the section in blue box like the picture above and take a plain 2.5" pipe and weld it to the CAT and after the flange? Am I right?






