Drivetrain Paging ONASLED
Originally Posted by coopercrazy
Nice Lime Rock video.
What mods have you done to your car?
And which would you say were the best that you did?
What mods have you done to your car?
And which would you say were the best that you did?
There may be more covered there, I can't remember
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=45757
I get asked this question a whole lot, and I apologize to those that I have not answered. It’s just that I never really kept any written info on what I’ve done to the car, so I’ll do it here now.
It’s not as much as some have here. Car make moderate horsepower, but does handle very well
Motor;
Alta 15% SC pulley
Alta 3% crank pulley
Alta Cold Air Intake with Alta hose
Alta intercooler and some work done to clean up behind it for better air flow.
Intercooler mister
Alta Oil Catch Can
M7 400cc injectors.
Unichip
Pilo coil
Kingsborne Plug Wires
Mini Mania Header. 4 into 2 into 1 w/o cat
Miltek resonator and center pipe
Straight through exhaust with Flowmaster 40 series muffler.
Alta Short Shifter with my extension
TCE Wilwood front brake kit. 13”x .81” with Wilwood H compound pads
TCE Wilwood rear brake kit with Hawk pads
Braided Stainless steal brake lines.
Super Blue fluid
Alta upper and lower rear control arms
H-Sport 25mm rear sway bar
H-Sport 27mm front sway bar
Bilstein PSS9 coilovers.
Sol Snyderman front camber plates
Wheels and Tires;
Kosei K1 17x7.5 x 45 offset (two sets)
Rota Subzero 17x7.5 x 45 offset
TOYO RA1 shaved 4/32 235-40-17 dry
TOYO RA1 unshaved 235-40-17 intermediate.
Hoosier Radial Wets 224-45-17 wet
Interior;
Battery box removed
Braille lightweight battery
Rear seats removed
Rear carpet removed
Sparco Fighter seats
Built By Bones roll bar
G-Force six point harnesses
G-Tech Pro for shift light
Body;
M7 front splitter
M& rear wing
Trimmed flairs
Worked fender wells
I think that’s it, but I’m sure I’m missing something.
It’s not as much as some have here. Car make moderate horsepower, but does handle very well
Motor;
Alta 15% SC pulley
Alta 3% crank pulley
Alta Cold Air Intake with Alta hose
Alta intercooler and some work done to clean up behind it for better air flow.
Intercooler mister
Alta Oil Catch Can
M7 400cc injectors.
Unichip
Pilo coil
Kingsborne Plug Wires
Mini Mania Header. 4 into 2 into 1 w/o cat
Miltek resonator and center pipe
Straight through exhaust with Flowmaster 40 series muffler.
Alta Short Shifter with my extension
TCE Wilwood front brake kit. 13”x .81” with Wilwood H compound pads
TCE Wilwood rear brake kit with Hawk pads
Braided Stainless steal brake lines.
Super Blue fluid
Alta upper and lower rear control arms
H-Sport 25mm rear sway bar
H-Sport 27mm front sway bar
Bilstein PSS9 coilovers.
Sol Snyderman front camber plates
Wheels and Tires;
Kosei K1 17x7.5 x 45 offset (two sets)
Rota Subzero 17x7.5 x 45 offset
TOYO RA1 shaved 4/32 235-40-17 dry
TOYO RA1 unshaved 235-40-17 intermediate.
Hoosier Radial Wets 224-45-17 wet
Interior;
Battery box removed
Braille lightweight battery
Rear seats removed
Rear carpet removed
Sparco Fighter seats
Built By Bones roll bar
G-Force six point harnesses
G-Tech Pro for shift light
Body;
M7 front splitter
M& rear wing
Trimmed flairs
Worked fender wells
I think that’s it, but I’m sure I’m missing something.
Originally Posted by coopercrazy
.....And which would you say were the best that you did?
I would say it would be the TCE wilwoods
Then the rear sway bar,
Then Camber plates,
then all the rear control arms,
then PSS9s
Then the 15% pulley
CAI
IC
Miltek header and catback.
Unichip
and so on
Originally Posted by onasled
I get asked this question a whole lot, and I apologize to those that I have not answered. It’s just that I never really kept any written info on what I’ve done to the car, so I’ll do it here now.
It’s not as much as some have here. Car make moderate horsepower, but does handle very well
Motor;
Alta 15% SC pulley
Alta 3% crank pulley
Alta Cold Air Intake with Alta hose
Alta intercooler and some work done to clean up behind it for better air flow.
Intercooler mister
Alta Oil Catch Can
M7 400cc injectors.
Unichip
Pilo coil
Kingsborne Plug Wires
Mini Mania Header. 4 into 2 into 1 w/o cat
Miltek resonator and center pipe
Straight through exhaust with Flowmaster 40 series muffler.
Alta Short Shifter with my extension
TCE Wilwood front brake kit. 13”x .81” with Wilwood H compound pads
TCE Wilwood rear brake kit with Hawk pads
Braided Stainless steal brake lines.
Super Blue fluid
Alta upper and lower rear control arms
H-Sport 25mm rear sway bar
H-Sport 27mm front sway bar
Bilstein PSS9 coilovers.
Sol Snyderman front camber plates
Wheels and Tires;
Kosei K1 17x7.5 x 45 offset (two sets)
Rota Subzero 17x7.5 x 45 offset
TOYO RA1 shaved 4/32 235-40-17 dry
TOYO RA1 unshaved 235-40-17 intermediate.
Hoosier Radial Wets 224-45-17 wet
Interior;
Battery box removed
Braille lightweight battery
Rear seats removed
Rear carpet removed
Sparco Fighter seats
Built By Bones roll bar
G-Force six point harnesses
G-Tech Pro for shift light
Body;
M7 front splitter
M& rear wing
Trimmed flairs
Worked fender wells
I think that’s it, but I’m sure I’m missing something.
It’s not as much as some have here. Car make moderate horsepower, but does handle very well
Motor;
Alta 15% SC pulley
Alta 3% crank pulley
Alta Cold Air Intake with Alta hose
Alta intercooler and some work done to clean up behind it for better air flow.
Intercooler mister
Alta Oil Catch Can
M7 400cc injectors.
Unichip
Pilo coil
Kingsborne Plug Wires
Mini Mania Header. 4 into 2 into 1 w/o cat
Miltek resonator and center pipe
Straight through exhaust with Flowmaster 40 series muffler.
Alta Short Shifter with my extension
TCE Wilwood front brake kit. 13”x .81” with Wilwood H compound pads
TCE Wilwood rear brake kit with Hawk pads
Braided Stainless steal brake lines.
Super Blue fluid
Alta upper and lower rear control arms
H-Sport 25mm rear sway bar
H-Sport 27mm front sway bar
Bilstein PSS9 coilovers.
Sol Snyderman front camber plates
Wheels and Tires;
Kosei K1 17x7.5 x 45 offset (two sets)
Rota Subzero 17x7.5 x 45 offset
TOYO RA1 shaved 4/32 235-40-17 dry
TOYO RA1 unshaved 235-40-17 intermediate.
Hoosier Radial Wets 224-45-17 wet
Interior;
Battery box removed
Braille lightweight battery
Rear seats removed
Rear carpet removed
Sparco Fighter seats
Built By Bones roll bar
G-Force six point harnesses
G-Tech Pro for shift light
Body;
M7 front splitter
M& rear wing
Trimmed flairs
Worked fender wells
I think that’s it, but I’m sure I’m missing something.
Trending Topics
OAS, do you street the car? or is it only for track use?
I was thinking I'd like to dupe some of your mods since they seem to work so well(proof in the pudding), but may be a bit much for normal street use.
Thanks for posting and letting us in on your car.
I was thinking I'd like to dupe some of your mods since they seem to work so well(proof in the pudding), but may be a bit much for normal street use.
Thanks for posting and letting us in on your car.
Onasled, Great video!
Thanks for sharing specs your car.
Regarding your alignment settings, do you switch from street to track, and will you share with us your camber settings? Do you adjust at the track, or do you run the same setttings both, If you adjust for the track, what tools do you use to check? Thanks again. I am currently running 2.2 front and 1.6 rear camber with 0 toe? but use the same street and track?
Appreciate your help
Minzilla
Thanks for sharing specs your car.
Regarding your alignment settings, do you switch from street to track, and will you share with us your camber settings? Do you adjust at the track, or do you run the same setttings both, If you adjust for the track, what tools do you use to check? Thanks again. I am currently running 2.2 front and 1.6 rear camber with 0 toe? but use the same street and track?
Appreciate your help
Minzilla
My Mini has become a 99% track car. I don't do much with it on the roads any longer. This is only due to a few items, some of which may not bother most other Mini drivers
Answering two questions at once here. My camber and toe settings, along with my tire investments are one reason I stay off the road.
Front camber is set to the max that I can get out of a Mini with stock top spring perches (they are used with the PSS9s) with some pounding to the towers. That's -3 degrees with 1/8" toe out.
Rear is set to about 2.5 with 0 toe.
Tires are all R compounds now, so they will wear fast with street driving.
Front sway bar and rear bar at max stiffness make the ride a bit harsh as does the camber plates.
Seats get uncomfortable after a while, but lets not forget that I'm an old man ...
The car is very drivable on the street, but with my current setup it will start to beat itself to death. I don't change the setup from track to street.
As I've stated here before, the racing bug has bitten me so I'm at the threshold of completely stripping down this car for BMWCCA racing and maybe SCCA or NASA if I can find a class it will fit into with all of the mods.
Otherwise it will be for sale and another race car will be had. :impatient
Answering two questions at once here. My camber and toe settings, along with my tire investments are one reason I stay off the road.
Front camber is set to the max that I can get out of a Mini with stock top spring perches (they are used with the PSS9s) with some pounding to the towers. That's -3 degrees with 1/8" toe out.
Rear is set to about 2.5 with 0 toe.
Tires are all R compounds now, so they will wear fast with street driving.
Front sway bar and rear bar at max stiffness make the ride a bit harsh as does the camber plates.
Seats get uncomfortable after a while, but lets not forget that I'm an old man ...
The car is very drivable on the street, but with my current setup it will start to beat itself to death. I don't change the setup from track to street.
As I've stated here before, the racing bug has bitten me so I'm at the threshold of completely stripping down this car for BMWCCA racing and maybe SCCA or NASA if I can find a class it will fit into with all of the mods.
Otherwise it will be for sale and another race car will be had. :impatient
Onalsed
Thanks for info, if you are ever racin at Mid Ohio, give me an advance, I'm only 15 minutes away from there, Been doin the BMW CCA driving schools and am also bitten by that same bug. Just havent' made the decision to go full race with the car yet,,,,,,,,,but it's startin to lean that way
Thanks for info, if you are ever racin at Mid Ohio, give me an advance, I'm only 15 minutes away from there, Been doin the BMW CCA driving schools and am also bitten by that same bug. Just havent' made the decision to go full race with the car yet,,,,,,,,,but it's startin to lean that way
Originally Posted by Minzilla
Onalsed
Thanks for info, if you are ever racin at Mid Ohio, give me an advance, I'm only 15 minutes away from there, Been doin the BMW CCA driving schools and am also bitten by that same bug. Just havent' made the decision to go full race with the car yet,,,,,,,,,but it's startin to lean that way
Thanks for info, if you are ever racin at Mid Ohio, give me an advance, I'm only 15 minutes away from there, Been doin the BMW CCA driving schools and am also bitten by that same bug. Just havent' made the decision to go full race with the car yet,,,,,,,,,but it's startin to lean that way
Originally Posted by red rage
Are you guys thinking or planning on doing some of the Phil Wicks NA Mini Cooper Challenge Races?
It would be a fun get together for some of us !!!!
Phil
It would be a fun get together for some of us !!!!
Phil
Originally Posted by onasled
Not sure, but I believe my car is too modified for this. It's also cocentrated more in the west is it not?
The last being an "UNLIMITED" mods Cooper S, the 4th being "Modified S", less than 220 hp (to include the JCW 218HP MODEL)
The races we could go to would be Sebring, FL April 2nd, even the St. Louis one and there is one is Summit Point, WV -Nice Track-BTW-
See you there? Phil
http://minidriving.com/page.asp?PageID=7
The Phil Wicks Racing North American Mini Cooper Championship Race Series will begin in March, 2006, with the first event scheduled at Las Vegas Super Speedway on March 25.[/font]
The series will consist of at least 6 races with three in the western US and three in the east.
The basic outline for the '06 North American Mini Cooper Championship Race Series is as follows:[/font]
Classic Ministo comply with HSR or similar regulations[/font]
Group 1 (MINI Cooper): roll bar or roll hoop, race seat optional, seat belt 5 or 6 point quick release harness, fire extinguisher, (emergency on/off switch?); engine -- alternative air cleaner or cold air box, exhaust from the cat back modified; suspension -- any modifications except adjustable camber plates; brakes -- brake pads, brake fluid, and brake lines upgrade; wheels and tires to be determined based on negotiations with tire company.[/font]
Group 2 (MINI Cooper)[/font][font=Arial]: same as above except engine modifications to 133 bhp.[/font]
Group 3 (MINI Cooper S)[/font][font=Arial]: same as group 1 except brakes, rotors, and calipers can be changed but not to race calipers.
Group 4 (MINI Cooper S)[/font][font=Arial]: same as group 3 except engine modifications to 210 bhp which will also encompass JCW cars
[font=Arial]Group 5 (MINI Cooper S)[/font][font=Arial]: same as above except unlimited engine modifications utilizing original engine
If the grids are not full, we will open a class for “Counterfeit Minis”![/font]
Driver Eligibility: NO LICENSE? NO PROBLEM!
If you have completed a previous Phil Wicks Driving Academy event and have received a certificate or a similar performance driving academy (i.e., PCA, BMW, Skip Barber, Bob Bondurant, Derek Daley, etc.) and have documented proof, you are eligible to enter a race/series. On the morning of the race, you would participate in a specific race school classroom instruction, then you will be observed during the race practice session. Track etiquette and competitiveness within your class are the key elements. If everything is acceptable, you will participate in the race qualifying session and issued a “Provisional Phil Wicks Racing” license for the race.[/font]
2006 Race Schedule
The following events are scheduled. More to come![/font]
March 25 Las Vegas Superspeedway (“A Mini Vacation in Vegas” event
April 2 Sebring (full track)
June 10-11 Gateway International Raceway – St. Louis (double-header
June 29 Summit Point Shenandoah Track (MINI Meet East 2006 event
TBA Laguna Seca
TBA Carolina Motorsports Park
TBA Another California event
Race Series Tire Sponsor: TBA[/font]
Race Series Points System: TBA[/font]
Championship Winner: [/font][font=Arial]JCW UK and Phil Wicks Racing have an agreement the winner of the North American Mini Cooper Championship Race Series will be invited to race in an official JCW race in the UK – all expenses paid with racecar provided. The winner of the UK championship will come to the US and participate in a Phil Wicks Racing event. [/font]
(NOTE: Classic Minis not eligible for UK sponsored race.)[/font]
Originally Posted by Sebaflex
Onasled,
You dont have Limited Slip Diff? (LSD) If you dont, do you feel that the car needs it?
Just want to know if you think its "necessary" if you track your car a lot.
You dont have Limited Slip Diff? (LSD) If you dont, do you feel that the car needs it?
Just want to know if you think its "necessary" if you track your car a lot.
This is on the list of mods for the winter as is a bunch of other stuff. Adding more power will require the LSD to get that power to the pavment.
Originally Posted by racingdynamcs
"Worked fender wells"
?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ??
Was this done to fit the 235's?
?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ??
Was this done to fit the 235's?
"worked fender wells" is just kinda short for banging the fender lips out with a hammer and cutting away all sorts of plastic. One would never know unless they removed the wheel and looked up under the well.
Originally Posted by onasled
Yes.
"worked fender wells" is just kinda short for banging the fender lips out with a hammer and cutting away all sorts of plastic. One would never know unless they removed the wheel and looked up under the well.
"worked fender wells" is just kinda short for banging the fender lips out with a hammer and cutting away all sorts of plastic. One would never know unless they removed the wheel and looked up under the well.

Do you have a photo of the before and after so I can see how much work it is to fit 235's =) The reason I am so interested is because my mini-s is due late dec and its coming in with all season run flats. In spring I want to buy a new set of wheels and tires so I can track and auto X the car with something that grips. After seeing your videos of you passing porsche's


