I would like to hear from people who HAVE this done. The thread on the discussion is way long and confused me to death. So I am starting this cause I am thinking about going in this direction and want to hear what the other people that have this done have to say. I DO NOT want to hear people with their 15% s/c pulley and nothing else saying that my car is going to blow up etc etc...

 

I'm not going to say totally negative info on this combo. But rather say that EuroStyleEast dynoed this combo and it made power but also made tons of intake heat. So heat really becomes an issue. So anyone considering this option needs other mods besides a few pullies.

 

High intake heat kills the power on our cars. I have seen a difference as high at 30 whp when "heatsoak" at the intercooler occurs...... just something to think about......not claiming or documenting......just an observation from the dyno

 

You might need to consider a cryogenic system and a larger TMIC (or an Air-Water IC) to hedge against the significant heat increase from an effective 23% reduction from stock.

 

I would really like to hear from someone who has done this with the other usual mods and a programmable water injection system to see whether the 23% can be effective.

 

but your chasing your tail. The Roots design isn't very good at very high RPMs. Nothing anyone says or does will ever change that fact. You will move your torque peak to a lower RPM, sure nuff, but life at red-line will be timing retard hell.

Matt

 

oooold post

 

sorry cant help you there completely.. now i am running the 19% with 2% pulley and have been for a bit over a year now. been doing Autox and just normal driving. Heat soak in these condition is not a worry simply the amount is the same rather you have stock 15, 17, 19 what ever.. there is a bit of a difference if you race (for longer than the 60 sec autox enwhich i spray down the IC anyways during Autox) The higher than normal heat may cause premature belt breakage and supposevly flaking of the rotors in the SC which others have reported but (knock on wood) I've yet to see.
Also currently running the Stock programming. Yes thats right you heard me stock. Did have the MTH in it for a bit. even through it performed better with it. there were some other reading that for my own piece of mind i took it back out for normal everyday running and may put it back in if i think i need the edge when i go racing. again there is nothing wrong with the reading that i saw. Its just a personal thing when i want a car for the long haul i would not go as far as they did, But then again i wouldn't go as far as i took my car either normally

So in general im pushing anywhere between 207-225 whp. Car runs good no real issues except maybe a little with the stage 3 clutch in that when im not driving ive hear a touch of slippage that i normally dont hear but that could be from me not driving. so far that engine pattern was 0-150 stock / 150-15230 15% / 15230-25497 19% / 25497- 4100+ 19%+2% all this with no issues. Others my chime in saying there always an exception to the rule. I'm guessing i must be penciled in on getting that exception everytime.

btw what Dr. O (Matt) says is true but i dont run at Red line that much. so that hasnt been an issue

Hope this helps also you will see the list of mods at the end of this message.

Until we meet on the Road
Have fun, Be safe and Keep MOTOV8N

Mugami

MOD LIST
Pulley : 19% P&D
Crank pulley : 2% M7
Flywheel : M7 segment
Clutch: spec stage 3
Oil : Klotz Racing with Technoplate thru out car.
BPV : Adjusted to close properly also with Manual Shut off
TB : 60mm purchased from One World performance
intake: GTT cold air ram
IC : GTT
Coil : Screaming Demon
Wires : Live wire in blue
ECU : Stock or MTH / also SAFC II
Hubs : Pilo wheel stud conversion 37mm in back and 50 MM in front
Rotors: MINI Mainia Cross drilled and slotted stock size.
Wheels : everyday: 15" steelies with Racing Disc (mooneyes imitations)
""""""""""": Autox : Holies / Drag : Centerline Impulse ( now called storms)
Exhaust : custom dual Supertrapp wavetechs

 

oh if you asking where the Headers, head or any internal work is : headers coming this weekend i hope. Head well lets say i have a project im working on which may or may not come out how i want it on the first attempt so it may take a long while if at all.

 

whoa .. i didnt see how old MISFIT

 

BPV : Adjusted to close properly also with Manual Shut off

How did you do this? + those it help and how does it work? I mean in what purpose do you use it..

If you answer my question I'll be glad.. thanx...

 

In most cases the Stock BPV (By Pass Valve) does not close fully and you are loosing Boost and getting the dreded yo yo effect. You can purchase "Fixed" BPV from places like Out-Motoring or make the adjustments yourself.

As for the Manual Shut off. I have a way that doesn't allow the BPV to open in the first place. Simular but not quite like the Rephile fix #1 with the zip tie's. Its a Simular princable but can be done on demand. I shut the BPV off when i do Autox This makes the car more electric since there isnt a surge when the BPV closes, but ill reopen it for day to day driving to help save gas.