Well, I have been posting on other boards about this, but now that I am further along, decided to post my info here..

I am creating a how to on creating your own Cold Air Intake for under 250. I may even start to sell the parts prelabeled so all you will have to do is cut and bend, and possibally have some one weld.. not sure about the last part, but will try to find another option than welding for mounting the tube. In total it should take some one familiar with tools about 2 hours to put together. I may sell instructions seperate as well. not sure, but that is down the road, and if it works, I will definaly help the board out..

Well, enough Jibbering, here is the good stuff



Custom MCS intake

also so far the parts only cost like 16 dollars with out the filter and stripping

 

Why pay the money...Cause what you are paying for is a quality product that has been tested. Make shift products maybe all well and fine for interior and decoration, but like most people, I want something that I know is going to work if it working with my car.

 

Well, This is not bad product, This is made out of Welding grade Steel, going to use KN Filters, and be heat shielded. And I designed it, so I know how well it's going to work or not work. I'm not knocking the quality of the other products, just saying there a bit expensive for what they are.

 

I have to say... that's some really clean work there buddy. Good job! :smile:

 

I'm a bit "baffled" (excuse my irony)

How is this baffle different than the stock airbox, and how does it allow more CFM? Doesn't the bonnet get in the way of allowing more air near the filter? Perhaps some blatant photos with huge arrows might help, I tend to be a visual learner.

 

This works on the same concept as the Moss and others, it will incude a High Flow cone filter that gets better CFM than the stock filter (I just found a KN filter that will do the job!) the box will be sealed against the bonnet, and also heat shielded so that it will not heat up. This is how it makes more HP..

 

think I got the idea. Just basically a way to impliment a lower restriction air filter, and also shield that filter from engine heat.

Cheers,
Ryan

 

correct..

and do it for about 1/3 the cost of retail kits

 

I think MiniPilo, did rather good job.
His kit looks as good or better than the ones we sell.
Just cause it does not come from some tuner or does not have someone's Good Housekeeping Seal does not make it any worse.
Since dyno testing is so subjective and usually meaningless, I say as long as it looks cool and you get a good seat of the pants gain, them Right On!
Keep up the good work!

 

Thanks, I have been putting lots of time and energy into fdoing it right.. I have finally found a filter that I feel happy with, and ordered it, so once that arrives, I can finish assembly. I also want to get the whole thing dyno tested, to see how it really does work. if anyone has suggestions on what might help, please let me know. I'm willing to try anything.. also if people have ideas for other projects, let me know and I will see what I can do.

 

So tell me, after all that work and time you are going to sell it for under $100.00 ? And how are you sure that what you are using will hold upand give the preformance the othrs do? Seems like a lot of work to save a few dollars. But good luck anyway. I'll stick with my BMP.

 

Can I sell for less that 100.. I can definatly sell DIY Kits for under 100, if I was to fabricate it may be a bit higher.. the kit woud include all the directions, pieces and probably the plans drawn out on the metal already, so all you would have to do is cut. Depeingind on how hard it is to mount the intake tube, I may have that done before they are sent out. still deciding.

for me personally, I think that the work was worth int.. I have spent a good ammount of hours, and am very happy with the work so far. I think that the little things that I still am going to address will make this kit top quality. The main thing will be the heat protectant that I don't believe you get on any other kit. this will make a big difference for those that like to motor hard so as to not loose performance from heat.

Some good news is that I have tracked down a suitable KN Filter that is 7" long and on a nagle so as to be right in the path of the incoming air, another feature that I don't believe is on any other intake.

I should start hurrying up and hit the break in period on my car, and stop spending time with it in the garage all taken apart... it is only a week old well, it knows that it will get a nice wax once this is all over, and mabye an Invinca shield.

Later!

 

I think what he's doing is great!

Those $250 kits out there are a bit pricey for a piece of sheetmetal and a cone filter.

I can understand that price if it includes piping to replace the restrictive factory 2.5" rubber tubes.

 

OK I see what your doing now. You are going to give the person the supplies and let them do the molding to fit. All that for under $100.00. Not a bad idea but you are limiting yourself to people that have some mechanical ability. Not all people can fabricate metal. And as far as the heat issue. When the boonet is closed and a seal is made on this type of air box (not just yours) all your really doing is making a larger stock type air box IMHO. The flow of air going through the snorkel has not changed. The flow going into the cone has improved but the amount of flow has not. It is still the same.

 

Hats off to you. I think it's great for those able to it themselves. I am a firm believer that if you are handy, creative, AND patient, you can do many things for less cost. I think it is half the fun just figuring out how to do it. The entertainment value is worth it to me alone. I love to tinker. :smile:

 

Great job on the fabrication, to the naysayers, do you think any of the name brand companies have some kind of magic formula? No, they had to start the development process the same way, the only difference, he's not trying to turn a fast buck and will have the pleasure of doing it himself, even if it ends up costing nearly as much.

X2

 

Quick question. How hot is the air in the engine compartment that you're trying to shield away?

 

To answer the question for people not comfortable making it them selves, I may also make kits that would be pre assembled. not sure, right now I don't have time time, but may down the road, or may hire some one to do it for me for a reasonable cost. and we will still be in the 50-60% range of other peoples cost for the kit. I would like to get it dyno'd so if anyone knows of a good place in norther NJ I will take it there when done.

Not sure about the heat of the inside of the engine compartment, I would guess 220 - 250 degrees mabye higher..

 

>>When the boonet is closed and a seal is made on this type of air box (not just yours) all your really doing is making a larger stock type air box IMHO. The flow of air going through the snorkel has not changed. The flow going into the cone has improved but the amount of flow has not. It is still the same.

So, what we really need is a second scoop higher on the bonnet for cool air intake to the filter.

Keith Hamburger

 

Kudos MiniPilo!

NoBull

That's why I opened up the rear of the intake area - to provide a larger, cooler air supply.

khamburger

That's what is in the design phase right now, but I don't want to tip my hand just yet.

Randy

 

>>khamburger
>>
>>That's what is in the design phase right now, but I don't want to tip my hand just yet.

Wow, that physics degree I got nearly 20 years ago has finally paid something.

Actually, I was thinking we don't really need a scoop. A simple grill should work just fine. The 280zx and the early 80's Z28 come to mind.

Keith

 

Self-fabrication can be good...

But please. OH PLEASE.

No one put a dryer duct on their hood as I have seen "ricers" do.

-Jim

P.S. Due to the history of the word "ricer" being offensive to the coalition of citizens opposed to and offended by everything I need to let you know that I don't condone sexism, racism, or any other "ism" with negative social consequence.

 

How about a nice low profile cowl induction hood?

 

By comparison, here is a professional opinion since i'm a metal fabricator full time. That being said, we would have developed the shape exactly the same way. The next step for me would be to CNC plasma cut the shape, (profile, filter and mounting holes, about a 30 second operation), then de-burr, another minute, bend it in the press brake, another 20 seconds.

start to finsh about 5 minutes, allowing for sheet loading, etc, I would have chosen stainless steel, since it needs no corrosion protection. If someone were ordering a quantity of these from my shop, we would charge about $20.
add to that your gasketting, K&N filter, a short tube and the things could be OEM'd for less than $100.

I think the BMP sells for $170 which is actually a bit low, especially considering it is welded. The $250 item does seem high.

 

>>Self-fabrication can be good...
>>
>>But please. OH PLEASE.
>>
>>No one put a dryer duct on their hood as I have seen "ricers" do.
>>
>>-Jim
>>
>>P.S. Due to the history of the word "ricer" being offensive to the coalition of citizens opposed to and offended by everything I need to let you know that I don't condone sexism, racism, or any other "ism" with negative social consequence.

cmon, I remember helping my brother put dryer duct on his 91 5.0L Mustang, its a great trick.