My motto is better be safe than sorry! But thanks for the info.
Ben

 

I didn't mean that the MINI is different, just that I don't even know what's involved to do this and something might need to get done due to the MINI's engine configuration (supercharger, intercooler location, etc). :smile: Does the engine get removed? Does the head come off? Do I turn the crank to compress a piston in it's cylinder? Etc? 3
I googled Compression Tester, and I saw you can buy one for as little as $25 and for as much as $200.00 but didn't see anything as far as a "how-to" to do a compression test.

 

I know Dom I am just givning you a hard time...that's a friends Job...

 

And you're the best at it outta all my friends....does that make you my bestest friend?

Back to the compression test I received this in a PM.
Question on Step 2... Do I take out all four plugs at once and only plug up just one of them in step 3? Or am I leaving in the plugs in each cylinder until I'm ready to pressure test it?

Question on Step 5... Could I remove the intercooler (to gain access to plug #2,#3.#4 since I have the large ALTA which covers all by plug #1) to simulate the WOT type of scenario? Basically you're just allowing air to flow into each cylinder by having WOT, so wouldn't removing the intercooler do the same thing?

 

Pics of pistons coming today guys. I just have to find my camera. One piston was completely gone and another one was past the point of no return.

 

Did you find out what size jets you were running in the nitrous / fuel.

 

if any of you tyros wnat to know what it takes to build the bottom end to the max:

I provided Endyn with a rough block and crank, paid $3,300 and got:
new forged pistons and custom rings ($620), custom Crower rods and ARP bolts ($715), line bored mains, bored and honed block, decked block, new, modified oil pump, new main and thrust bearings and seals, balanced crank, full assembly. the labor potion was $1,400, the custom parts were: 1,335 and the remainder was std mini parts (bearings, seals, oil pump).

 

Considering the thought involved in the job, and the skillz of The Man, sounds reasonable to me. Those pistons are jewels.

 

Yeah.. but he doesn't need his engine rebuilt...

 

So true!!!! LMAO

 

.....daaammn!! any pix yet?

 

Got a response.

However I got another Q

If I crank it over with the key with the spark plugs unplugged, will the ECU throw any codes?

 

yes. And you should unplug the power to the coil, you do not want to be shocked by that.

 

Did my check last night.

Cyl 1: 135
Cyl 2: 145
Cyl 3: 150
Cyl 4: 100

 

Is that variance [50% from cyl 3 to 4!!] OK???? Dominic, what are your mods right now? I sure hope your engine is alright.

 

Turns out my first 5 liter (from a rolled CHP car with 12k on the odo), had been screwed up by the salvager, and I had pitted walls on three cylenders (from water sitting in there and rusting away) screwed up the rings on one piston too. Been that way since I got it (but what do you expect for 2.5k for a complete motor and 5-speed with harness and computer). Still did donuts all day long, and just burnt a bit of oil.
And what an excuse to spend! I upped the ante with 300+ crank HP, (Al heads, cam, headers and ECU work). 75+ more HP sure is fun! Now you get to do the same.

Word of advice. Don't add up the receipts!

Matt

 

Was your engine cold? Did you do a dry test then a wet test to determine if cylinder or valves are losing compression?
Have a leak down test done, listen with a peice of hose at the throttle body/intercooler exit duct (if have the intercooler off) and tail pipe for pressure getting past the valves. How many miles on engine? Why did you suspect you had lost compression, ever had a serious mis-shift up or down.

 

My kind of people DIY sharing the knowledge.

http://www.type2.com/library/engineg/leaktst.htm

http://www.xs11.com/tips/misc/misc3.shtml

http://www.650motorcycles.com/LeakDownTester.html

 

I hope it is OK too. I have 54k miles on the car so it is outta warranty. I'm going to have my mechanic look at it soon. I've been wanting to get the better pistons so I can mod away without worrying about it. This is the perfect time to get in there and check the internals and get the new pistons.

 

The engine was cold....hadn't been run in over 24 hours. Dunno if it was wet or dry as I'm not familiar with those terms. I did what the instructions said to do for the compression test. I'll look at those web links and see what I can figure out.

I'm running tons of boost I've seen as high as 26psi (twin-charged). I suspect either this problem with the comression was caused by the boost, or I may have had it prior to getting the mods. Knowing what I know now, I should have had my mechanic do a compression check prior to build-up. That way we would have known. Hind sight is 20/20...

 

Squirt a little oil through the sparkplug hole (wet test) before performing the pressure test to help seal the rings, compare readings with the no oil treatment, if you are still leaking then poor valve sealing is probably the culprit.

 

Spillman, how is your car running now? Whats your bottom end setup and other mods? How do you like it, etc? Please give full review... Anyone else out there with forged pistons, rods, etc? Any interesting stories?

 

Stupid computer....

 

The rebuild took a bit of time to complete but it is back on the road. I wasn't able to source the parts for the stroker kit so I am using the stock rods and crankshaft.

As for the pistons I am using the CP Pistons that are used in the MINI USA drag car. I am using arp rod bolts and I converted to arp head studs.

Other than my head I have basically the same internalls as the MINI USA drag car. And I believe they have pulled around 500whp on this setup. Don't qoute me on that though.

The mechanic who assebled my motor commented on the offset of pin that connects the rod to the piston. He told me that where the offset was on the factory pistons was designed to give a more low end torque setup. The CP pistons are not offset and the pin is directly in the center.

This, combined with the switch from the Megan racing header to the OBX, has certainly added a noticeable increase in midrange torque and upper rpm HP. That is just from the but dyno how ever. I hope to have it on the dyno soon to dial in my afc.

I also installed delron motor mounts. Talk about making a MINI feel like a race car, or atleast sound like one. It sounds like a hellicopter hovering on your hood. And everything in the car shakes. It would probably not be so bad in a full interior car.

Also I removed the battery box and installed a braille battery underneath the hood beside the ABS box. And now the exhaust is ran straight back. The removal of that bend deffinately added a lot of decibles. I cannot even hear the supercharger from inside the car.

I will post picture of the pistons, exhaust, an battery box. I promise I will this time. Didn't get around to it last time.

Also such a successfull rebuild would not have been possilbe with out help from the devil. Thanks Jan!

 

LOL thats funny