I'm not talking about IAT...it's what's happening during combustion that counts.

http://www.enginerunup.com/news.htm

"Water injection was evaluated scientifically in the 1930’s by H. Ricardo who demonstrated that one can basically double the power output of an engine using water/methanol. The first widespread use was during WWII on supercharged and turbocharged aircraft. In 1942, the German Luftwaffe increased the horsepower of the Focke-Wulf 190D-9 fighter aircraft from 1776HP to 2240HP using 50/50% water/methanol injection. The allies soon followed by fitting the P51 Mustang and other high performance aircraft with water/methanol injection. Following the war, the turboprop aircraft industry used water/methanol injection and called it the “automatic power reserve system (APR)” for use in hot or high altitude take off. It surfaced again in the 60’s when GM used a system on the OEM turbo Corvair. It was used effectively in Formula 1 before being banned for adding too much power.

The latest competitive use is in World Rally Racing (WRC) where virtually all teams use it in some form and in diesel truck/tractor pulling competition. It is important to note that in the fall of 2004, the long standing world record in the quarter mile for diesels was broken twice (now 7.98 sec) by two different vehicles; both using the Boost Cooler® water/methanol injection system by Snow Performance."

 

I did do a ultrasound wall thickness test and the result was not overly
positive. The 2 center bores has a siamesed water jacket, allowing very little
if any room for opening up the cylinders....

peter
Team M7

 

get the bore done right

 

If you call 20 thousands over, bored out, you are right...BUUUUUT
I think the question was "Can you bore it out" to get more volume
like 1.8 liters or even 2.0L, that ain't going to happen.

peter

 

Odd that the second and oil ring lands went but not the very top one. In most cases it's the uppermost land that comes apart. Given how thin the top land is as well, I'm surprised it's still intact. I know that the top lands are hard anodized stock; I guess that says something about the process!

Maximusmini, I hope you get things back together soon. You rawk!

 

getting it right means removing enought metal to get the perfect piston-bore fit, honed to final size, and a truly round and straight hole. that requires a minimally bigger piston. we are only talking about a .010" radially deep cut

 

No, we're talking a .020 radially deep cut.

 

Ok, finally some updates

My motor has been 70% put back together and back in the car. ALl that is left to do it connect all the wiring, add the front crossmember holding all the suspension, brakes and steering units backonto the car. then we dyno.. I should have my Vader back before next weekend.

 

Congrats!

Any pictures of the process?

 

Pictures should be posted in the shops site soon.. or so they say. this was their first european car they've worked on.

 

LADIES AND GENTLEMEN! I have news, the MINI is BAAAAAAAAAACK!! I have to go through break in and then have some tuning to do. After that, I add my Manual Boost Controller so the Wastegate, Bypass Valve and Blowoff Valve don't fight eachother all at the same time! I will post pictures and such when I get her cleaned up and finish with some things around the new condo.

 

Gotta get Vader ready for the Dragon, Zak! Congrats on FINALLY getting her back......jeez!


Clover

 

Whoa Nelly!! Glad to hear it's back in your hands. It's gotta feel good. I can't wait to hear all about it.

Did the shop have any problems with assembly?

 

If you still got pain threshold - rebuild. BUT KNOW where that threshold is for if you hit it - get out. Its like a stock that you bought at a high price and it has done nothing but go down since you purchased it - you need to know when enough is enough and remain like a deer in headlights.