Need to replace my headers, thinking about to go with this one.

https://www.outmotoring.com/header-catless-gen1-racing-dynamics-130.08.53.360.html

For what I research Cat is connected to the headers, I don’t want to go catless, my car is daily driver, don’t want it to be loud and smell..

for who have done it, do I need to cut cat and weld a flange so I can connect to headers ?

 

Ask OutMotoring, they offer text & phone options.

Your car's factory cat has a flange that bolts-up to the OEM header. The question you want answered is whether your factory cat & exhaust will simply bolt-up to the Racing Dynamics header. . . or are modifications necessary.

 

https://www.outmotoring.com/header-w...08.53.500.html

They sell this one with a cat if thats what your after? These seem pretty on the cheap end IMO. I just purchased a Miltek header with straight pipe for mine. But I want it louder lol.. I went with Miltek based on quality.

 

The factory cat has flange on the end side where de cat bolts on the resonator right?

I believe miltek is a great quality and good value for someone is looking for improve performance.

I’m not sure about those high flow cats, I read here they don’t last long for daily drives and I’ll better go with the oem.

personally never drove car without car but people say it’s loud and smelly, two things that I’m not looking for..

 

My 2 cents -- you can spend $1,000 on headers/exhaust and gain only 8hp - not a great dollar/hp ratio IMO. I modified to a one-ball exhaust and it gives a nice quiet tone when needed, louder at WOT and a nice burble (post-Adrian Nastase tune) on decel. Plus, it was worth 2hp and only cost $100 at a muffler shop.

 

correct. If you want stock cat, a shop or yourself, would have to cut that one off and weld a flange in its place for an aftermarket header. I’m not sure if they make an oem cat replacement that’s not a high flow version. I could be wrong. Without a cat it gets loud and drone sounding something you wouldn’t want on a daily car.

 

Why “need”? If cracked at the pre-cat, that can usually be re-welded for about $25-$50 USD and is most likely caused by excess engine movement so also check your motor mounts.

For a replacement header, a lot of people went with an OBX/Becker/XForce header. I think they are all the same knock-off header of the SuperSprint, just released under different nameS, and all come with a donut flange to weld to the cat.

Search the forums for OBX header and you should find lots of info, including pics of where to cut the stock cat. AFAIK, the only version recently available was the XForce for around $225 USD while the SuperSprint is around $700.

 

Lots of people have a similar experience. & this is because lots of "performance" exhausts are garbage. Look at that miltek with its horrendous 4-1, the gains over the stock headers are thrown away by that choke point. A header that maintains airspeed & provides actual scavenging will require a remap. If your new system can work with your standard fueling then it isn't doing anything to increase airflow. Exhausts are a lot like ports, you can have a 90% copy of the perfect ideal system & still be missing out on a majority of the potential gains. Also the muffler isnt just there to delete noise either, it can help with scavenging & engine pick-up as well.

What you don't see much of, even on the most well known brands is mixers that look like this:



Because they take time. You cant just do a quick cut & weld. You can see a lot of joins there, the pipe on the inside however is perfectly smooth. Now go have a good look at the mixers on the header of the well known Scorpion 4-2-1. They are just stamped pieces with a bad shape. They might be helping to correct the volume thru the mixer (absolutely crucial!) but they are bad bad bad for airflow.

The main reason to install a set of headers isnt just the increase in HP at the top end, its more about liberating the engine to rev more freely <~~~ this is worth just as much as the top end HP increase. Just about the only system i've yet seen for supercharged mini's that has mixers worth a damn has been the RMW race pipe (not their shorty). Your going to see a dramatic improvement over stock by buying one of the Supersprint copies. The OBX & the Becker both are good buys & will work better than just about anything else for cheap. That style of 4-2-1 is exactly what the new gen mini should have had standard.

One thing you can take to the bank: the stock system has ZERO redeeming features & wants to be junked, entirely, by anyone looking for better performance. The entire thing is a choking device. An engine brake that its fighting against every time you want the revs to increase.

 

Never heard of a mixer for an exhaust systems

 

Mixer -- I believe that's Kiwi-speak for "collector."

 

You build exhausts in sections & that part I've always called the mixer. Straight cut pipes welded together dont manage the volume, they invariably have the volume slightly expand or contact horribly.

 

Wow...just wow !
I thought I heard a lot of wives tails...
Seems Brad is in fairy tail land, not real life.

Brad, spend some time building...actual headers and then put them on an engine, and put said engine on a dyno, see how your thoughts stack up.
MANY if not most of your thought have been proven to not make much difference to much of anything...in real life .

Speaking of engine power adders. I don't understand some folks here. They seem to think of things the way that they'd LIKE...them to be, but don't understand the way things really happen.
I've seen some of the dyno results on these pages. Some have some proper workups and methods. Many...are just an exercise in futility.

Mike

 

Its ok, I understand where your coming from. The performance options for road bikes are even worse, because bike engines have a high state of tune standard & the off-the-shelf stuff usually isnt much better than standard. So owners & tuners that dont have experience with anything else & expect only a 10, to maybe 15% power increase, can be super skeptical.