I was getting O2 codes and coolant temp too low code but was getting those before swapping TB occasionally. Not the code you're getting.

The car really is a blast. I'd love to get it sorted, not exactly in a hurry thankfully.

 

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/mm...-air-apparent/

 

There's a couple easy litmus tests to know if modifications are adding power. On the r53 in particular it does not have a wide band so when you're passed about 40% load it's going straight to the fuel tables. With the bigger throttle body my afr did get leaner and I had to add fuel to my tune, hence more power, all three of my cars needed fuel added to the tune, not much but to keep the afr the same I had to add a little

If you have a good Data logger you can also see the HP gains in the data log itself without going to a dyno there are several good apps that can do this. Much like a Dyno the back-to-back logging is what shows you the difference, I can add a degree of timing and immediately do it another pull and see the difference in the log. I use a app called log Dyno, it's within a percent or two of my actual Dyno on my 135. The key to this app is you need to do a full throttle pull from 2500 to redline in third gear on flat ground that means you're going to be exceeding the speed limit. Then you make your change and do another pull immediately same location hopefully the temperature hasn't changed much because it does make a difference on these supercharged charged cars. Watch for knock in the log because if you get a little knock on tip in that's going to pull 10 HP and you'll see it on the wideband

 

Oh you dont need to tell me. I can think of a dozen things to notice on the stock DME. Feel, sounds, response, window etc. I have a G4 so I see everything x1000 lol. I think often people dont fully understand the how or why to what they are doing or did. But dont want to admit that to themselves as well so they have some internal expectation of a outcome etc. It's just common and often times in all aspects of life it happens. There is a hundred reasons for any given affect to this mod and what it did or does to your setup why it gained boost etc could be bad reasons (many to throw out) could be good reasons why it did. Its all subjective to each person I guess. I moved up to a 911 74mm bore unit myself. So a true 3" and thats in and out for the bore. But thats my air pump lol. But I will say more often than not on mild builds the extra boost is from adding air into the blower that the air pump cant digest so..... Just far to many variables to each setup to even make it worth debating because its a paradox of possibilities.

 

well, yes it will. Raising the fuel pressure will give more flow, so you can run less DC for the same amount of fuel.

 

Is this the one you sold me.? Lol. I lost your contact number and pmd you too. I can’t get this tb to act right. I’m on idle and engine load on ultra gauge shows 39%

 

Technically yes. But in practice flow does not increase by any meaningful amount when going eg. from 3.5 bar to 4 bar fuel pressure.

 

idk about these aftermarket tbs. I think they suck. The one you sold me a seems to be a POS. If reset adaptations it drives fine for a few days then gets out of wack. It’s weird and Adrian can’t seem to find anything wrong with his maps.

 

maybe it went bad.. every one ive sold was tested 1st and noone else has had issues with their throttlebody unless they fail.
Ive personally messed one up by installing it abd not reseting the ecu adoptions and throttle values and somehow fried the tbody and it wouldn't move the blade at all..
these tbodies definitely don't suck by any means.. exp now too that I altered my throttle input settings. It's really dialed it in much better.
Theres ways to volt test the throttlebodies resistance to verify if its getting correct voltage to operate correctly.
If hadn't have waited so long , I would have exchanged it for you. If its of any help i belive i have my stock ported throttlebody I used for awhile until I went with the 65mm again. I could send it to you if you'd like.
I find it odd though it would run fine a few days and then mess up , ive never had that happen befor abd anytime I seen a tbody fail usually its either junk or not.. but its possible it might somehow be loosing memory adaption values and not knowing the correct throttle angle to pedal input..
im running another 65mm setup on my white mini and it's still on stock tune and it's never had an idle issue or cel other than from making too much boost on a cold day ( 20+psi )..
so it's very possible the tbody is bad.

 

I’ve been trying to contact you for a while. I had your cell # but lost it when I upgraded my damn phone. I pm’d you that I had issues with it from
get go. But I was back and forth with Adrian about it thinking it was a tune issue. I’ve tried everything and no luck. At this point I’m convinced it’s the damn TB. Unfortunately I work 65+ hrs a week and rarely have time to do logs and car work. Hence why it’s been a good bit of me trying to dial this thing in. But I’ve tried all I can with him and something is not working right. I’ve replaced various sensors for the hell of it as well just because of my miles on engine. No luck. If you really maybe still wanna help me out I’d appreciate it.. check your pm I believe I left my cell there. Txt me.

 

It’s a part throttle issue. Full throttle it pulls great. City driving is what’s way out of wack. It’s as if the car hits a wall. I’ve seen my afr’s go to anywhere from 17-20 out of nowhere while I’m accelerating fro a few seconds then bam gets back to normal. Sorta of as if my DSC traction kicked on out of nowhere. Only way I can explain it lol

 

if you are running injector adaptors make sure nothing is shorted, one of my cars did that and it was a shorting injector harness against the intercooler

 

I tucked mine in good but I’ll double check thanks.

 

So finally got time to change the throttle body for the bigger BMW TB. Was ok to swap - just the pesky little bracket that does no longer align with the holes in the TB..

I have not logged any data yet, so this is purely by feel. There most definitely is a difference, part throttle gives more air and thus more power, car feels "stronger" due to the way it delivers the power. I did not reset adaptations, so it was a bit kangaroo'ish for the first few miles, but it seems it is sorting itself out.
STFT seems to have gone up a bit, not sure about the long term fuel trims yet. I fitted the BMW TB along a new silicone hose for a homemade JCW filter/airbox. (The same trumpet into the scuttle, using the genuine JCW filter)

Next step move the vacuum to the bypass valve so it sees pressure once on boost. ..And the bigger intercooler, and the 380ml injectors, and the 17% pulley, and the cam, and the remap

 

"The greater the boost and power, the greater the losses associated with a restrictive throttle body."

So the more you tune one of these R53's, the more restrictive the standard TB becomes. & coming from tuning bikes the TB on the R53 seems restrictive standard. It's like 57mm at the exit, thats puny for a 1600cc engine / 400cc cylinder, even if it is only revving to 7k. We are wanting to reduce the flow restriction for our small Eaton yes ?

My point in posting here was to ask about the quality of Ebay versions. The BMW part number is 13541439580. This is for the TB bolted to the 2003 - 2008 760 v12. FCP Euro lists this part new as $582 usd, but on ebay they are going for just over $100. They are likely to be lower quality chinese knockoffs yes ?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254589227102

This one on Aliexpress is carrying the VDO brand logo

https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005003779176151.html

Are these types best avoided, or is there noting wrong with them ?

 

VDO branded one is here. They are the Oem on most BMW and MINI Throttle bodies. You can see the brand in the BMW and MINI part casting.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-vdo-part...541439580~vdo/

 

I have three cars running the $70 version that used to be on eBay I'm sure it's a knock off but they work fine I've got about 40,000 combined miles now in the past 2 years and probably 35 track days between two cars.

As far as I'm concerned this is a must-have mod and should be considered part of doing a full bolt on package, i.e., airbox injectors pulley cam header exhaust facelift ECU tune and a bigger throttle body. Every one of my car is set up this way and it really wakes them up they pull hard to red line instead of tapering off a little bit on top and they're all set up with the gp1 tune with a 7200 Red line

 

Hey thanks for that.

From what I can see so far these R53's are restricted by quite a lot standard, & I like that because it makes a bunch of tuning fun possible :-) Getting one of these is now a must-do.

 

@ECS Tuning - So the TB you linked to (above), is for the "big boy" / upgrade TB?
Didn't see the ID/mm intake listed in the description for comparison to the factory OEM R53 TB.

Thanks!

 

Thats the part number they posted above for it. I was just showing VDO is the OEM.
65mm from what i see on the inside bore.

 

This is embarrassing but annual emissions inspection is at the the end of the month and I never got this fully sorted...still getting an EML light occasionally. Runs fine otherwise.

I never tapped a vacuum line for the larger TB and this doesn't look right to me. The hole I'd need to make in the TB for either of these seems like it would be much larger than it needs to be. What am I missing here? Are either of these fittings appropriate? Tia.

 

100% internal tracking not Adams fault at all. I have had a few do this even vdo. Fine at wot but its basically a dead spot in the internal tps/dbw sensor. They get out of whack or the actual internal tps is shot or its out of wack/spec and cant track with the Acceltaro pedal info. They need to track together. Which is why say in the Link ecu You can calibrate the TB and the pedal to each other. Marry them so to speak so it knows what values each is giving. No idea if the stock dme can do this I doubt it. Stock TB has a set value so does stock AP. The link has the ability to adapt meaning if one or the other drifts from a value it can be recalibrated. But again assume stock dme has pre determined info based on initial hardware car shipped with.

But not Adams fault at all. But that is a dead give away when its fine at wot and borked mid/partial. If it was hooked to a link or even a Digital meter I bet you could see the reading dance all over when you held it at mid throttle steady.

 

could it function good on one car and not the other due to differences in the tunes or which ecu is being used ? I found on my favelift ecu with stock gp tuning ,the car bucks pretty easily at slow speeds partial throttle but soon as the old pre facelift ecu is reinstalled with its stock tuning its runs much much smoother..
I never got any codes though from the throttlebody on either car with either tune BUT I've always tapped my throttlebody and had it run stock vacuum line routing ( juuuuust encase it were to have any effect at all on throttle position or something)...

 

BTW, I got a good set here if someone is looking to do this mod..here's everything you need to bolt on and go , and go well too... no jerryrigging anything to run it.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co.../market/365538

 

Little update..

I tapped the vac line but was still getting P1498. Swapped smaller original TB back in and all good. No CEL and to be honest, the throttle feels much more linear. I think my experience with this was a tuning issue.

I didn’t do as nice/smooth of a job with the tap as I’d of liked though. Not sure if this could be the issue. Nicked the valve flap with the drill bit too.