Like title says, we are trying to build a budget track car (24hr of lemons -- link to youtube playlist at bottom of comment) and looking at getting a crank pulley. I understand the general consensus is that the ATI is superior, but for a budget-tight race vehicle, would the PRW suffice?

Has anyone ran both at one point in time, or has anyone had issues with the PRW one? I'd like to get some direct comparisons between the two & pro/con list... everything I have come across online is someone who only seems to have experience with 1 for the most part. If money wasn't an option I would buy an ATI but if the PRW will be good enough then I will go that route

Any constructive input is welcome.

Thanks,

Isaac


https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...nupvFMtxlCKASd

 

When it comes to racing you always want to do the best and most reliable. Go with the ATI and not worry about it later, plus if you damage the ATI it can be repaired rather than having to replace the entire part.

 

I have experience with both, and the PRW unit will be more than adequate for the 24hrs of lemons. Both are a HUGE upgrade from the stock rubber-damped pulley that falls apart over time. I ran the PRW for a number of years until I needed a +2% oversize unit to spin a TVS supercharger a bit faster. ATI was available off-the-shelf, and the PRW had a longer lead-time. Both are used by respected engine-builders.

The 24 hours of lemons is budget/fun racing. The best price I have seen on the PRW in stock size is $201/delivered, here: https://www.ebay.com/p/220334332 from a volume seller with good reviews.

 

As it was explained to me way back when, to put it in simple terms, the "fluid" damper type dampers need to..."warm up" before working properly. The fluid inside needs to come to a uniform, higher than ambient temperature to evenly dampen the harmonics. The internal ring moving around inside the housing will heat the fluid to some given temperature...in time. This will not happen immediatly.

Now...given this was by a top rated, national drag racer, this may have a two fold action going on. Yes, once the internal fluid comes up to it's given temp., Most fluid based dampers will work as well as any of the other top dampers. In drag racing, this is VERY unlikely to happen in a burnout and 1320ft.
On a street or road race engine, if the driver makes a controlled lap or maybe two to allow the temp. change before really hammering the throttle, all should be well.
BUT, if the throttle is pounded on while coming out onto the track from the paddock area, then you would be better suited to use the ATI. Very little time is required to warm the o-rings in the ATI damper.

Mike

 

Replaced mine with the ATI last year only because the original factory one had failed and I needed a replacement right away to get the car running. The SFI/PRW one was on back order at the time, through everyone, or I would have gone with it for about $125 less. The ATI is considered "bullet proof" but I have yet to hear anyone speak badly of the PRW or have one fail, at least under "normal" use. For Lemons though? Hmmmm....

Also, you may notice both ATI and PRW offer them in standard as well as over and undersized. Order with care.

Whichever you go with, consider getting / borrowing one of these, vs a generic "one size fits all" model. This one - pretty much tailor made to fit the car - made the job very straight forward with no issues, at least for me.

Crankshaft Pulley Removal Tool

Also be sure to get a new crankshaft bolt (believe they are torque-to-yield) and consider replacing the front seal, serpentine belt, belt tensioner (at least replace the dampener piece, $18, annoying noise maker when it fails) and idler pulley as needed "while you're in there."

Naturally you'll need one of these:


Doable solo but much easier with a buddy-helper.

Good how-to vid from a guy with a channel devoted to these cars: