Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain MINI-MADNESS release's new upgrades

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Old Feb 12, 2005 | 12:10 PM
  #51  
doomsdaybob's Avatar
doomsdaybob
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From: Jacksonville FL
For those of us that don't track but might have lots of stop and go the Madness kit seems kinda overkill. Don't get me wrong it looks and sounds like a great setup and yes I do know how expensive fittngs get but I would like to extend the life of my car w/o having to sell one of the kids (alright, I'd really like to sell one of the kids but only for an Oricari kit) You can always tee of the Cobalt connections for additional sending units too.

So, only one person using the Moss/Cobalt kit?
 
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Old Feb 12, 2005 | 03:19 PM
  #52  
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Why not install a 180 degree thermostat for every day driving and leave the oil cooler for track cars?
 
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Old Feb 12, 2005 | 06:59 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by meb
Why not install a 180 degree thermostat for every day driving and leave the oil cooler for track cars?
To start, because coolant temp and oil temp are unrelated issues.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2005 | 09:44 AM
  #54  
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How are they unrelated? The oil is heated via the combustion process/friction and the coolant removes excess heat. If the coolant is cooler, I would think there is potential to remove more heat. I think that there is a relationship. Perhaps an oil cooler works best keeping things cooler in the lower half of the engine while reduced coolant temps works best at keeping the head a bit cooler. In either case, I would think the entire system benefits???

I also understand too cool is bad for various reasons.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2005 | 11:33 AM
  #55  
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Without dragging this out too much...

There's an ideal range for coolant temperature. Lowering this temp, and possibly falling out of the range, is going to have a very minimal effect on oil temperature. Saying they are unrelated was oversimplyfing it (and technically incorrect), but there are many cases when it is simply impossible to keep both coolant and oil within their ideal operating ranges when you're only cooling the coolant (including when a factory heat-exchanger is undersized).

If the "problem" is oil temperature, why not address it directly? If there's not a problem, spend your money on gas and tires
 
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Old Feb 14, 2005 | 11:39 AM
  #56  
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TonyB
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I've asked before, but what is the ideal temp range for us? I am convinced that I don't want to get an aftermkt oil cooler if the stock one keeps me in that desirable range all of the time. I don't think it does though, as seen by some measured oil temp readings on the track (by others)...

However, I would not want to get an aftermkt oil cooler that is not regulated as to prevent temps from getting too cool. I don't see where this unit offers that safeguard...
 
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Old Feb 14, 2005 | 12:14 PM
  #57  
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That's one of the questions I've never heard a convicing answer to. Hondas (where I'm from) tend to see high oil temps and up to about 250F is considered acceptable by some.

That said, every oil thermostat I've seen opens, or more specifically is fully open at about 180F. I certainly wouldn't consider using an Air/oil cooler without a thermostat on the street. A water/oil heat exchanger, such as the ones laminova makes are a different story, but gets really high at that point.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2005 | 12:20 PM
  #58  
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Okay, thanks. I know running coolant too low may cause the the engine to run in 'start-up' mode. Then the check engine light comes on and so on and so forth.

Good question Tony, I've no idea either. I'm all of the sudden aware of how difficult it is to learn about tuning at a very detailed level without the proper equipment. Intercoolers, oil coolers and a whole bunch of other goodies are sold on the premise that they simply work and we should trust the marketing. Without answers to quetions like your Tony we purchase a bit blind. Maybe I'll just put gas in my car...
 
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Old Feb 14, 2005 | 02:18 PM
  #59  
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From: Lansdale, PA
Originally Posted by meb
Intercoolers, oil coolers and a whole bunch of other goodies are sold on the premise that they simply work and we should trust the marketing. Without answers to quetions like your Tony we purchase a bit blind.
What a crazy concept!
 
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Old Feb 14, 2005 | 03:16 PM
  #60  
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The American dream
 
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Old Mar 12, 2005 | 09:10 AM
  #61  
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I've seen my oil temp gauge pointing at 130C (266F) at the track. I would consider a oil cooler kit, but also want it to be regulated. For those with oil temp gauges, what temp do you read on the track?

While on the subject, what is the operating temp range for synthetic oil?
 
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Old Mar 26, 2005 | 08:43 AM
  #62  
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Well here goes. Feel like I'm about to walk into the Valley of Death. Did my dyno run, as planned on March 18th, and am reporting back now that I have the files. Let's see how this discussion goes.

Very nice gains over last July. WHP up to 230 from 216. Torque up to 173 from 165 with no drop off. Temp was 60-61 vs. 89 last July. I asked about the correction factor and they said the Dynojet did correct, but probably not completely for the 28 degree difference. Could bump the old numbers up a bit.

Relevant mods are the Madness header w/test pipe and the greater capacity water-to-air IC. Necessitated by addition of top-mounted oil cooler. Changed Borla Sport out for Borla Street so I don't spend all day on the side of the road with the blue lights flashing discussing decibel readings.

As to sound: About the same in loudness, which I like. Slightly different tone. Quieter when cruising (good ).

IC temps are incredibly lower. As reported earlier, am running about 22 degrees cooler everyday. Even better results on the track. Never crossed 130 at Portland Int'l Raceway on the 19th during very fast-paced fourth session (was running with 2 Porsches). Would usually see in the 150-160 range.

Oil temps are steady on street, 210-225. Just reached 260 in the last session when I was bumping the red line in a few spots.

Which reminds me, the car is running so strong that we upped the red line from 7250 to 7500. I believe the file from Oliver at Evotech also has a few other tweaks. George and I have been sitting on it for awhile and forget. We're checking on that. Anyway, even more power after the re-chip. Might have to spend more money for another dyno.

Observations from mods: Throttle response is incredibly quick. One gear lower driving. Sixth is a memory.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2005 | 08:56 AM
  #63  
El Diablito Rojo-N20Mini's Avatar
El Diablito Rojo-N20Mini
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Good info..... looks like the HP you gained was from Reving the engine past stock redline. At stock redline your numbers are what we have been seeing with MCS's that have been heavily modified.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2005 | 09:13 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by El Diablito Rojo-N20Mini
Good info..... looks like the HP you gained was from Reving the engine past stock redline. At stock redline your numbers are what we have been seeing with MCS's that have been heavily modified.
True, but what is interesting is that it isn't falling off like last July (red line 7250 then also). Torque stays flat and HP keeps climbing. Feels as though it can pull to 8 grand, not that I would take it there, due to reliability issues. Did feel comfortable going to 7500.

While at the track, the Rasmussen dealership Mini was there. They go to 8500. Engine is bored/stroked by race engine builder, plus all the usual goodies. They pulled 251 on the same dyno, so I feel pretty good.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2005 | 09:45 AM
  #65  
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From: Lansdale, PA
Wow! Very impressive output, especially without additional forced induction. :smile:
 
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Old Mar 27, 2005 | 04:21 PM
  #66  
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looks like that header we put in there for you norm work out awesome.....


BATES

ps call me about putting that new belt on for you
 
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