Drivetrain 2009 MCS Forged Build Questions
#1
02-25-2019, 04:53 PM
Join Date: Feb 2019
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2009 MCS Forged Build Questions
Hello everyone!
I have been a lurker on the forums for a few years and sourced a lot of my knowledge from some amazing MINI enthusiasts, but now I need some input on my build!
I burned a valve about three months ago and decided that, after 125k, it would be worth it to replace the engine. Arguments aside about whether this was the best choice, I sourced a long block from Chis at Sneed4Speed with 9.5:1 ratio CP pistons, Cat Cams, ARP studs, King bearings, and updated replacements for the rest of the parts. The car already has the following: Wagner comp intercooler, BSH catchcan, Super42 K03 turbo, Alta boost tubing, K&N intake, Seibon functional carbon hood, Akrapovic 100 cell DP (soon to be replaced with catless DP), Alta DP-back exhaust, JMTC tune with 20psi, and fully built suspension.
So, my question relates to touch up issues after the install of the engine. What psi would be optimal and can the fuel pump keep up with the new setup? I have had some very smart people mention that I should look into these two issues specifically before finishing up the build and I appreciate any insight anyone may have!
I have been a lurker on the forums for a few years and sourced a lot of my knowledge from some amazing MINI enthusiasts, but now I need some input on my build!
I burned a valve about three months ago and decided that, after 125k, it would be worth it to replace the engine. Arguments aside about whether this was the best choice, I sourced a long block from Chis at Sneed4Speed with 9.5:1 ratio CP pistons, Cat Cams, ARP studs, King bearings, and updated replacements for the rest of the parts. The car already has the following: Wagner comp intercooler, BSH catchcan, Super42 K03 turbo, Alta boost tubing, K&N intake, Seibon functional carbon hood, Akrapovic 100 cell DP (soon to be replaced with catless DP), Alta DP-back exhaust, JMTC tune with 20psi, and fully built suspension.
So, my question relates to touch up issues after the install of the engine. What psi would be optimal and can the fuel pump keep up with the new setup? I have had some very smart people mention that I should look into these two issues specifically before finishing up the build and I appreciate any insight anyone may have!
#2
02-27-2019, 10:15 AM
6th Gear
First thing you'll want is another tune. Don't worry about the HPFP 'cause there aren't any upgraded plug-n-play replacements available --- YET. My fuel system is still OEM. As for PSI, go with the max your turbo will provide --- a good tune will accommodate it. My tune preference is Manic and you're probably in the stage 3 range --- probably need WMI and a bigger turbo for stage 4. Regardless, get it tuned first! After you're accustomed to the new package, then think about more upgrades. My choice would be WMI --- cleaner valve stems and cooler running.
#3
02-27-2019, 05:28 PM
Join Date: Feb 2019
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
First thing you'll want is another tune. Don't worry about the HPFP 'cause there aren't any upgraded plug-n-play replacements available --- YET. My fuel system is still OEM. As for PSI, go with the max your turbo will provide --- a good tune will accommodate it. My tune preference is Manic and you're probably in the stage 3 range --- probably need WMI and a bigger turbo for stage 4. Regardless, get it tuned first! After you're accustomed to the new package, then think about more upgrades. My choice would be WMI --- cleaner valve stems and cooler running.
#4
02-27-2019, 07:30 PM
6th Gear
I think WMI is next. I currently have a tune from JMTC for 20psi and stock internals. The DME was actually just shipped out for an update so I think that should handle the tune. You are definitely right about the temps though, I will be striving to keep it as cool as possible. Any suggestions for a WMI system?
As for WMI, it's hard to beat the features of an Aquamist system. Mines been performing well since about 2012 and has about 50K miles on it.
#5
02-28-2019, 06:32 AM
+1 For Aquamist. A little more expensive and slightly more complex install. However, it's proven to be extremely reliable, has the built in failsafe to protect your engine in case of failure or running out of meth,is easily configurable with a myriad of options and has great support via the Aquamist forum.
#6
03-06-2019, 03:19 PM
You can always replace the HPFP with a new output pipe. Shop around. I got one for less money than normal and I hope it lasts. Replace anything that is a pain in the *** to get to - aux pump, Turbo, and turbo inlet line (make sure its heat shielded), hoses, thermostat, water pump and connecting pipe. I removed my engine and had the alternator and starter rebuilt. Make sure to put new seals in the transmission, maybe even rebuild the axles, and make sure your front suspension parts are in good shape. Now is the time to make changes, including a torque check on the steering gizmo. I replaced the steering boots and arms and greased the electric steering mechanism. If you have to take half the car apart to fix it later - fix or rebuild it now. I've spoken to Sneed many times. Please keep in touch and let me know how things work out.
OH! Big issue. Do you have a break-in plan? I've done a bit of research on this and I think I have a consensus. This is critical so you don't ruin the engine. It's all dry, and needs care from the first pop. DR
OH! Big issue. Do you have a break-in plan? I've done a bit of research on this and I think I have a consensus. This is critical so you don't ruin the engine. It's all dry, and needs care from the first pop. DR
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Steven_RW
R56 :: Hatch Talk (2007+)
31
12-22-2016 05:10 PM
Steven_RW
R56 :: Hatch Talk (2007+)
13
02-04-2016 03:09 PM
