Drivetrain Fully forged engine list
Thread Starter
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3rd Gear
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 268
Likes: 37
Fully forged engine list
Hi all,
Just purchased a remanufactured fully forged engine R56 N14 to replace my JCW engine.
What is a safe power remap can I expect HP and torque?
What grade of engine oil are you running with a fully forged engine?
Thanks in advance.
Just purchased a remanufactured fully forged engine R56 N14 to replace my JCW engine.
- Enlarged Port & Polished Cylinder Head
- Performance Oil Pump
- MAHLE Performance Connecting Rod Bearings
- MAHLE Performance Main Crankshaft Bearings
- Polished & Balanced Crankshaft
- Wössner Alloy Forged Piston & Rings
- PEC Steel performance Connecting Rods
- SCHRICK Camshafts
- Performance Valve Guides
- Performance Inlet / Outlet Valves
- ARP Connecting Rod & Cylinder Head Bolts
- MLS Cylinder head gasket.
- Rallycross Oil Sump Baffle Plate
What is a safe power remap can I expect HP and torque?
What grade of engine oil are you running with a fully forged engine?
Thanks in advance.
6th Gear
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,945
Likes: 203
From: Northern NV
Start with non-synthetic oil for break-in, otherwise you'll never get rings to seat. I've been using 5-30 Castrol as originally recommended, but you should probably use something appropriate for your weather. Oil weight and mfgr are very subjective, maybe get the engine builder to suggest something?
That's an impressive list. Questions ---
Where are you located?
Does your turbo use the OEM WG controller or an external boost control?
Max boost?
Exhaust pipe diameter?
Piston CR?
Why don't I see WMI listed?
Whose tune? I recommend Manic if you qualify for a stage 4 --- RPM doesn't yet have the stage 4 experience --- still in prototype.
Spark plug heat range?
Whose ECU?
N14's have pretty weak cylinders. Did the engine builder use some kind of cylinder support system?
Is this thing on the road yet, or still being assembled?
I'm getting the impression you have little experience with Mini's. What are your plans for this build and who's doing the assembly work, DIY or a local indie?
Best of luck with your build. I'm always happy to see a competitive machine.
That's an impressive list. Questions ---
Where are you located?
Does your turbo use the OEM WG controller or an external boost control?
Max boost?
Exhaust pipe diameter?
Piston CR?
Why don't I see WMI listed?
Whose tune? I recommend Manic if you qualify for a stage 4 --- RPM doesn't yet have the stage 4 experience --- still in prototype.
Spark plug heat range?
Whose ECU?
N14's have pretty weak cylinders. Did the engine builder use some kind of cylinder support system?
Is this thing on the road yet, or still being assembled?
I'm getting the impression you have little experience with Mini's. What are your plans for this build and who's doing the assembly work, DIY or a local indie?
Best of luck with your build. I'm always happy to see a competitive machine.
Thread Starter
|
3rd Gear
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 268
Likes: 37
Hi,
I'm based in the UK.
I've posted a few times about getting standalone ECU, hybrid turbo and engine forged.
I rely on garages and specialists to do most of my car work as I can only do the basic stuff.
The garage was suppose to rebuild my old JCW engine with piston failure, but his engineer is too busy with other work.
So I decided to pull the plug and buy a remanufactured fully forged engine, as it would cost about the same amount of money rebuilding my old JCW unit.
I spoke to the engine builders and they recommended Mobil 1 semi synthetic 10W-40 for 1000 miles run in and then Mobil 1 0W-40 every 5000 miles maintenance.
The turbo WG and diverter uprated from OEM. No boost controller, as difficult to find and setup on these cars.
But with my old JCW turbo, boost was cutting out at 22 psi with Manic Motorsport stage 2 tune. The hybrid turbo should be good for about 25 psi.
Exhaust is JCW exhaust system 2.25".
Don't know the piston CR, so I'll will ask them.
Would like WMI but my budget is tight at the moment and difficult to find someone who can install and tune it. It can a problem if not done correctly instead of helping.
I have tried both spark plugs recommended by Manic
Plugs= Mitsubishi EVO 8 NGK ILKR8E6 ( NGK 1422 for 4 plugs)
Mitsubishi EVO 10 NGK 91448 Double Iridium
SCS Delta GDI 4 ECU and will be tuned by garage tuner.
They offered me filling in the cylinder walls with some substance (not too sure about cooling, although cheap to do) or Darton sleeves (would have liked, but out of my budget). So did neither.
I doubt I'll be any competition for you as I still need to do the uprated clutch, flywheel, LSD, coilovers etc... and only aiming for about 300+ hp and 300+ N.m.
Your build does look like a beast of a build.
Thanks for the input.
I'm based in the UK.
I've posted a few times about getting standalone ECU, hybrid turbo and engine forged.
I rely on garages and specialists to do most of my car work as I can only do the basic stuff.
The garage was suppose to rebuild my old JCW engine with piston failure, but his engineer is too busy with other work.
So I decided to pull the plug and buy a remanufactured fully forged engine, as it would cost about the same amount of money rebuilding my old JCW unit.
I spoke to the engine builders and they recommended Mobil 1 semi synthetic 10W-40 for 1000 miles run in and then Mobil 1 0W-40 every 5000 miles maintenance.
The turbo WG and diverter uprated from OEM. No boost controller, as difficult to find and setup on these cars.
But with my old JCW turbo, boost was cutting out at 22 psi with Manic Motorsport stage 2 tune. The hybrid turbo should be good for about 25 psi.
Exhaust is JCW exhaust system 2.25".
Don't know the piston CR, so I'll will ask them.
Would like WMI but my budget is tight at the moment and difficult to find someone who can install and tune it. It can a problem if not done correctly instead of helping.
I have tried both spark plugs recommended by Manic
Plugs= Mitsubishi EVO 8 NGK ILKR8E6 ( NGK 1422 for 4 plugs)
Mitsubishi EVO 10 NGK 91448 Double Iridium
SCS Delta GDI 4 ECU and will be tuned by garage tuner.
They offered me filling in the cylinder walls with some substance (not too sure about cooling, although cheap to do) or Darton sleeves (would have liked, but out of my budget). So did neither.
I doubt I'll be any competition for you as I still need to do the uprated clutch, flywheel, LSD, coilovers etc... and only aiming for about 300+ hp and 300+ N.m.
Your build does look like a beast of a build.
Thanks for the input.
6th Gear
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,945
Likes: 203
From: Northern NV
Hi,
I'm based in the UK.
I've posted a few times about getting standalone ECU, hybrid turbo and engine forged.
I rely on garages and specialists to do most of my car work as I can only do the basic stuff.
The garage was suppose to rebuild my old JCW engine with piston failure, but his engineer is too busy with other work.
So I decided to pull the plug and buy a remanufactured fully forged engine, as it would cost about the same amount of money rebuilding my old JCW unit.
I spoke to the engine builders and they recommended Mobil 1 semi synthetic 10W-40 for 1000 miles run in and then Mobil 1 0W-40 every 5000 miles maintenance. Good choice --- I've read that dealers are also switching to 0W - 40, and there's nothing wrong with Mobil 1.
The turbo WG and diverter uprated from OEM. No boost controller, as difficult to find and setup on these cars. Difficult on K03 - K04, hybrid turbos, not on true oversized turbos. Very few use our vacuum controlled WG.
But with my old JCW turbo, boost was cutting out at 22 psi with Manic Motorsport stage 2 tune. The hybrid turbo should be good for about 25 psi. Pretty sure Manic doesn't raise the boost limit 'til stage 3 & 4, so cutting out at 22 is probably normal. Make sure your tuner knows about your 25PSI goal.
Exhaust is JCW exhaust system 2.25". This should be one of your next upgrades --- 2.5" is about minimum for 300HP.
Don't know the piston CR, so I'll will ask them. As boost goes up, CR should go down --- easier on cylinder walls.
Would like WMI but my budget is tight at the moment and difficult to find someone who can install and tune it. It can a problem if not done correctly instead of helping. I'm told that Manic is back in business. Maybe talk with him about your tune.
I have tried both spark plugs recommended by Manic
Plugs= Mitsubishi EVO 8 NGK ILKR8E6 ( NGK 1422 for 4 plugs)
Mitsubishi EVO 10 NGK 91448 Double Iridium
I've read that ThePenl, in Greece, used NGK 94290 ILZKR8A plugs. Might be easier to find --- you definitely need heat range 8 if using NGK. (I'm partial to NGK)
SCS Delta GDI 4 ECU and will be tuned by garage tuner. This'll be interesting. I haven't heard of any successful N14 uses of the Delta ECU, at least not yet.
They offered me filling in the cylinder walls with some substance (not too sure about cooling, although cheap to do) or Darton sleeves (would have liked, but out of my budget). So did neither. When you go for over 300 WHP consider shipping the top half of your block to CNCWerx for their CSS --- https://cylindersupportsystem.com much better pricing than Darton.
I doubt I'll be any competition for you as I still need to do the uprated clutch, flywheel, LSD, coilovers etc... and only aiming for about 300+ hp and 300+ N.m. You should have no trouble reaching 300 in BHP, but that's a far cry from 300WHP, which is what most of the reliable USA dyno's use.
Your build does look like a beast of a build. Can't launch competitively, but it keeps me happy.
Thanks for the input.
I'm based in the UK.
I've posted a few times about getting standalone ECU, hybrid turbo and engine forged.
I rely on garages and specialists to do most of my car work as I can only do the basic stuff.
The garage was suppose to rebuild my old JCW engine with piston failure, but his engineer is too busy with other work.
So I decided to pull the plug and buy a remanufactured fully forged engine, as it would cost about the same amount of money rebuilding my old JCW unit.
I spoke to the engine builders and they recommended Mobil 1 semi synthetic 10W-40 for 1000 miles run in and then Mobil 1 0W-40 every 5000 miles maintenance. Good choice --- I've read that dealers are also switching to 0W - 40, and there's nothing wrong with Mobil 1.
The turbo WG and diverter uprated from OEM. No boost controller, as difficult to find and setup on these cars. Difficult on K03 - K04, hybrid turbos, not on true oversized turbos. Very few use our vacuum controlled WG.
But with my old JCW turbo, boost was cutting out at 22 psi with Manic Motorsport stage 2 tune. The hybrid turbo should be good for about 25 psi. Pretty sure Manic doesn't raise the boost limit 'til stage 3 & 4, so cutting out at 22 is probably normal. Make sure your tuner knows about your 25PSI goal.
Exhaust is JCW exhaust system 2.25". This should be one of your next upgrades --- 2.5" is about minimum for 300HP.
Don't know the piston CR, so I'll will ask them. As boost goes up, CR should go down --- easier on cylinder walls.
Would like WMI but my budget is tight at the moment and difficult to find someone who can install and tune it. It can a problem if not done correctly instead of helping. I'm told that Manic is back in business. Maybe talk with him about your tune.
I have tried both spark plugs recommended by Manic
Plugs= Mitsubishi EVO 8 NGK ILKR8E6 ( NGK 1422 for 4 plugs)
Mitsubishi EVO 10 NGK 91448 Double Iridium
I've read that ThePenl, in Greece, used NGK 94290 ILZKR8A plugs. Might be easier to find --- you definitely need heat range 8 if using NGK. (I'm partial to NGK)
SCS Delta GDI 4 ECU and will be tuned by garage tuner. This'll be interesting. I haven't heard of any successful N14 uses of the Delta ECU, at least not yet.
They offered me filling in the cylinder walls with some substance (not too sure about cooling, although cheap to do) or Darton sleeves (would have liked, but out of my budget). So did neither. When you go for over 300 WHP consider shipping the top half of your block to CNCWerx for their CSS --- https://cylindersupportsystem.com much better pricing than Darton.
I doubt I'll be any competition for you as I still need to do the uprated clutch, flywheel, LSD, coilovers etc... and only aiming for about 300+ hp and 300+ N.m. You should have no trouble reaching 300 in BHP, but that's a far cry from 300WHP, which is what most of the reliable USA dyno's use.
Your build does look like a beast of a build. Can't launch competitively, but it keeps me happy.
Thanks for the input.
Thread Starter
|
3rd Gear
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 268
Likes: 37
Piston compression ratio 10:1 (JCW), which I have read is recommended for larger turbos.
Car is now nearly 10 years old, so when the exhaust rusts and fails yearly inspection I'll upgrade to 2.5". With WMI I don't know if I can find anyone that can setup and tune the car for it.
Car is now nearly 10 years old, so when the exhaust rusts and fails yearly inspection I'll upgrade to 2.5". With WMI I don't know if I can find anyone that can setup and tune the car for it.
Last edited by knt; Feb 21, 2019 at 11:27 AM.
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