Drivetrain Anyone here got a boost gauge in their car without using the Alta mount
Originally Posted by GRSmotorsport
Here's my boost gauge, back grounds now been change to green - its better than the red back ground
What are the two red pushbuttons at the top of the panel? Garage door opener and... passenger ejection seat? Pod mounted 50 cal? Drag chute?
Originally Posted by larkie
i wondering which is the least expensive way to mount the boost gauge?and to be look good too.. like mount it right beside tach.
can i get those autometer pod and find something mount on the tach?
can i get those autometer pod and find something mount on the tach?
I used the AutoMeter cup as well, mounted directly to the upper steering column cover. I need to get some black hardware for a better match, but you can't beat the price! Good visibility as well.
[QUOTE=LombardStreet]That looks pretty cool. Does the little LED above the boost gauge light up when you go from vacuum to boost. (How cool would that be? I'd never be able to keep my foot off it!)
What are the two red pushbuttons at the top of the panel? Garage door opener and... passenger ejection seat? Pod mounted 50 cal? Drag chute
The little red buttons are there for the menus so you can set parameters i.e. back light red or green, maximum water temp - low temp, low voltage etc and how fast the response is between changes. The little lights come on when say you set the water temp at say 95 degrees, if the water temp gets to that temp the little light above the gauge flashes to alert you.
What are the two red pushbuttons at the top of the panel? Garage door opener and... passenger ejection seat? Pod mounted 50 cal? Drag chute
The little red buttons are there for the menus so you can set parameters i.e. back light red or green, maximum water temp - low temp, low voltage etc and how fast the response is between changes. The little lights come on when say you set the water temp at say 95 degrees, if the water temp gets to that temp the little light above the gauge flashes to alert you.
Here is my Auto-Meter 2 1/16" mechanical boost gauge with black Auto-Meter mounting cup, which is plumbed into a T going from the #1 cylinder intake manifold runner to the fuel pressure regulator:

Cheers,
Ryan

Cheers,
Ryan
Originally Posted by Ryephile
Here is my Auto-Meter 2 1/16" mechanical boost gauge with black Auto-Meter mounting cup, which is plumbed into a T going from the #1 cylinder intake manifold runner to the fuel pressure regulator:
) for a MINI. Your solution looks pretty good!Hmmmmm.
Ryan, I like what you've done there!
A couple questions, please:
1. How is the AutoMeter mounting cup secured? I'm guessing with a couple screws going upward...
2. And, are you able to tilt or rotate the guauge upward/downward via this cup? It appears so!
I'm going to check my Summit Racing catalog now for these cups...
Thank you.
1. How is the AutoMeter mounting cup secured? I'm guessing with a couple screws going upward...
2. And, are you able to tilt or rotate the guauge upward/downward via this cup? It appears so!
I'm going to check my Summit Racing catalog now for these cups...
Thank you.
--->TonyB: #1. Yes, secured via two fastners to the underside trim panel. #2. Yes, but I torqued that bolt down so the gauge would stay in-line with the angle of the center console. Summit or Jegs should have the stuff. I bought mine in a hurry at Overcha......I mean Ramchargers
Ryan, thanks for the prompt reply with confirmations! Direct links to Summit products have not work in the past for me, but here is another attempt:
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...2204&x=20&y=13
If it does not work, the 2 1/16" black (fits electrical & mechanical) is product number - ATM-2204. And it's 12.95!
It appears that fitting two down there should not be a problem at all. I've got voltmeter and oil temp gauges begging for a home
.
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...2204&x=20&y=13
If it does not work, the 2 1/16" black (fits electrical & mechanical) is product number - ATM-2204. And it's 12.95!
It appears that fitting two down there should not be a problem at all. I've got voltmeter and oil temp gauges begging for a home
.
I dont' think this merits a new thread, but I wanted to share what I've done. After a few PM's with Ryan (thanks again) to confirm some things, I promptly ordered a couple of AutoMeter gauge cup-holders from Summit. It was less than 30 bucks to my door, and like Summit, I got them 2 days later
.
And after $7 at The Home Depot, I believe I have something ready to install (photos attached). The aluminum plate/bar is 1/8" thick and I tapped it, metric of course (5mm). This bar is 2" wide and at 18cm long, fits very nicely up under the toggles and back, sandwiched between the rear of the toggles, prior to a hatch-like openning. It is in this access area where I will fasten the plate down with some nylock nuts, against a couple 1/8" thick aluminum plates. This should make it quite secure, and rigid.
With a trial fit earlier, the fit is exceptional! The facia pillars have a ledge of sorts just below the toggles, and this baby slides-in beautifully
.
Oh, I replaced the screws that control the upward/downward rotation with Allens. I did so primarliy because getting a screwdriver in there, once the fascia pillars are back, would be quite difficult. And FWIW, three gauges would certainly fit down there, with about 1cm spacing! I thought about getting a wideband A/F, but I found somewhere else cool to put that one. Plus, as you can tell, I tilted these two gauges a bit toward the driver, making visibility pretty darn good. Three to fit this way would be fairly tight, but I still think doable...
Going-out to do the install now - football game is over
. I will only connect the voltmeter today though...
And after $7 at The Home Depot, I believe I have something ready to install (photos attached). The aluminum plate/bar is 1/8" thick and I tapped it, metric of course (5mm). This bar is 2" wide and at 18cm long, fits very nicely up under the toggles and back, sandwiched between the rear of the toggles, prior to a hatch-like openning. It is in this access area where I will fasten the plate down with some nylock nuts, against a couple 1/8" thick aluminum plates. This should make it quite secure, and rigid.
With a trial fit earlier, the fit is exceptional! The facia pillars have a ledge of sorts just below the toggles, and this baby slides-in beautifully
.Oh, I replaced the screws that control the upward/downward rotation with Allens. I did so primarliy because getting a screwdriver in there, once the fascia pillars are back, would be quite difficult. And FWIW, three gauges would certainly fit down there, with about 1cm spacing! I thought about getting a wideband A/F, but I found somewhere else cool to put that one. Plus, as you can tell, I tilted these two gauges a bit toward the driver, making visibility pretty darn good. Three to fit this way would be fairly tight, but I still think doable...
Going-out to do the install now - football game is over
. I will only connect the voltmeter today though...
Originally Posted by jinubob81
that's it. these guage mounts are just ridiculously expensive.
i'm going to embed them into my arm, and attach a wire to human interface. I will become one.
i'm going to embed them into my arm, and attach a wire to human interface. I will become one.
We installed a boost and an air/fuel gauge using the autometer pods this weekend in a customer's car. We decided to mount the pods on the little plastic cover right behind the tach rather than drilling through the steering column. It was a tight fit, but still worked out and looked good.
Nice SP guages you got there.. where did you get that guage holder if I may call it?
I can't seem to read digital numbers though
I can't seem to read digital numbers though
Originally Posted by GRSmotorsport
Here's my boost gauge, back grounds now been change to green - its better than the red back ground
Thank you RallyMINI! I'm actually going-out to my MCS now (9:30am) to put her back together. It got a little late/dark yesterday, and I had today off...
The install is really not that bad at all. There's the physical install of the gauges themselves, which I've already shared a bit above, then there are connections to make them work. The difficulty for some is finding a tap area for 12v (switched or un-switched), ground, and a lighting wire, then a plan to route. The Bentley manual has already helped me a few times
.
Of note, on page ECE-6 of this manual, there is no reference to wire color "GR". It is grey/gray. "GN" is green... Having done my boost and oil pressure gauges last year, it seems that the grey/red wires (GR/RT) are for internal lighting, but not all of them.
I'm tapping off of the cigarette lighter which is only a few inches away. I will take the 12v, ground, and lighting wires (3) up through each fascia pillar. Conveniently, there is a hole in these pillars for their exit in the perfect area for gauge attachment. I will find-out shortly for sure...
I'll attach some more pictures of the install in a moment...
The install is really not that bad at all. There's the physical install of the gauges themselves, which I've already shared a bit above, then there are connections to make them work. The difficulty for some is finding a tap area for 12v (switched or un-switched), ground, and a lighting wire, then a plan to route. The Bentley manual has already helped me a few times
Of note, on page ECE-6 of this manual, there is no reference to wire color "GR". It is grey/gray. "GN" is green... Having done my boost and oil pressure gauges last year, it seems that the grey/red wires (GR/RT) are for internal lighting, but not all of them.
I'm tapping off of the cigarette lighter which is only a few inches away. I will take the 12v, ground, and lighting wires (3) up through each fascia pillar. Conveniently, there is a hole in these pillars for their exit in the perfect area for gauge attachment. I will find-out shortly for sure...
I'll attach some more pictures of the install in a moment...
That doesnt sound bad at all....very very nice. I've wanted to get gauges for a while but never knew if i could actually tap into the system at the right places.
Thanks :smile: Good luck with the rest of the progess
Thanks :smile: Good luck with the rest of the progess
I got the following boost/oil temp setup from Mini-Madness.
http://www.mini-madness.com/index.as...ROD&ProdID=159
Works great, readable day/night. Swivels, which helps avoid glare in daytime.
http://www.mini-madness.com/index.as...ROD&ProdID=159
Works great, readable day/night. Swivels, which helps avoid glare in daytime.
Thanks jlm! I didn't quite finish-up, but everything looks fine, and works well. I just need to do some clean-up, then I'll share some more photos. The guages are rock steady, and I can see them very well!
Oh, weight... I figure that I'm about 5 pounds now for gauges (4, 5 including a SW shift light), brackets, hardware and all connections. Did I mention that I got my driving weight down to 140 pounds :smile: . A/F next, then I'm done, I hope...
Oh, weight... I figure that I'm about 5 pounds now for gauges (4, 5 including a SW shift light), brackets, hardware and all connections. Did I mention that I got my driving weight down to 140 pounds :smile: . A/F next, then I'm done, I hope...









