pretty sure I will get a dp next month, either a used one (if I get lucky) or bite the bullet with a new one from MR0KT.

Thinking about getting a floorjack and jackstand to diy. The actual wrench turning starts at 1:09, did she pretty much capture everything?


Can I use the original gasket or better off get a new one?

 

 

The worst part of the downpipe install is the heat shields. Have a variety of 10 mm tools (ratcheting wrench, short and deep sockets, and a couple of extensions). You can work top and bottom to get the shield off. I used new gaskets top and bottom. I left the lower heat shield in place after removing the bolts, it isn't easy to get in or out.

One thing to check before you get started is to look for leaks on the front of the engine, dripping right on the exhaust. If you have anything there, it is likely the oil cooler gaskets (or filter housing). You need to remove the downpipe and heat shields to replace the gaskets. Jack up one side of the car and look just above the exhaust with a flashlight.

Plan on 4 hours to replace the downpipe. Remember to disconnect the battery, to make sure that the fan doesn't go on and you don't spark off the alternator (ask me how I know).

BTW, I had a noticeable improvement with a sport cat downpipe. Butt dyno approved?

Mike

 

if you have a good selection of 10mm sockets and you keep a torch handy.. you can do the whole job in less than 2hrs. Plan on having a new gasket for the DP to install as well.. they are super cheap.

*I only installed 3 of 5 bolts back into the lower heatshield after the new DP went it (easier to service now and doesnt rattle). Also I found if you take the passenger side bolts off the lower shield, you can just bend it forward and there is enough room to remove the OEM and install your new DP without ever removing the lower shield completely. Torch & WD40 for the DP nuts/bolts works miracles. When youre installing the new DP, align everything up top - then connect your Vband down below.. tighten up top..start your brackets and align down below..torque up top, tighten everything and install your shields.

After driving for the first few times in full boost/WOT, make sure to check under your hood near the top heatshield for any marks from 'exhaust spray'. It is possible to have a leak which only occurs at full boost.. you should see evidence of any leak from the brown/white residue of the fuel additives.

 

I've been working all day trying to do this job. I read you didn't have to take the heat shield completely off so I took the two lower bolts off each side. It seems impossible to reach the 2 upper ones. I saw a video from MarioKart where he got to the top bolt from the hood instead of under car. I'll have to see if I can do that. Currently I'm stuck because I can't push the old cat off the turbo completely. Not sure if it's because if upper part of lower heat shield.

 

Most of the time I am able to remove the top heat shield and only remove the 2 bolts on the lower Passenger side (US version). Also I find it easier to to remove the two lower brackets that are held on by two 13mm nuts

Mario

mQubed Motorsport Manic & RPM Power Tuning

 

Thanks. I think I made the mistake of pushing off the top part of cat off turbo before loosening bolt on top part of lower heat shield. It just seemed stuck. I put back on all but two bolts. 1 on lower and 1 on upper heat shield. Seems rock solid regardless. Thanks again for video you made! I'll should have ECU out to you next week!