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Has anyone ever replaced their engine wiring harness? Tonight I had a coil pack somehow fall apart causing cylinder 3 misfire. I went to Inspect and when I pulled the coil pack and wires were exposed and smoking. Put my other coils in and it still misfired. Tried to limp home and now the car keeps blowing the 15a fuse for the ignition under the hood. Im worried the could may have fried some wiring in the harness.... Any thoughts?
Its a 2014 Clubman S. Im going to try a few things before a new harness...it has to be a short some where. I need to check all the ignition and fuel relays and the DME relay
I don't know how to read electrical diagrams like that. What should I be looking for. I see the Fuse in the diagram but. what is it connected to do I can see the grounds and stuff. Im wondering if I pushed my negative battery terminal out of the way too hard and crimped a wire.
I don't know how to read electrical diagrams like that. What should I be looking for. I see the Fuse in the diagram but. what is it connected to do I can see the grounds and stuff. Im wondering if I pushed my negative battery terminal out of the way too hard and crimped a wire.
If you click on the various blue txt, it will take you to another page where you can select the location of the item and that sort of thing. here are some examples:
If you click on the various blue txt, it will take you to another page where you can select the location of the item and that sort of thing. here are some examples:
did you separate the wires from each other at that coil?
the fuse only pops when you turn the ignition on, right?
if you probe where pin 5 sits, do you get a light (one end of your probe on + and the other on the pin socket of the relay).
if you remove the relay above fuse F10, does the fuse pop?
if you replace that relay with one of the two above it, does that pop the fuse?
did you separate the wires from each other at that coil?
the fuse only pops when you turn the ignition on, right?
if you probe where pin 5 sits, do you get a light (one end of your probe on + and the other on the pin socket of the relay).
if you remove the relay above fuse F10, does the fuse pop?
if you replace that relay with one of the two above it, does that pop the fuse?
I'm going to give that a shot when I get home. If one of the ones above it is off to replace that one will it still fire? Or should I just turn accessories on. But to answer your question. Yes, it pops just by hitting the start button for just accessories on.
it feels once the contact makes/closes it shorts to ground making the fuse pop.
Ok, so I played with it a little on my lunch break.
1. I swapped the Relays, put in a fuse for F10 and turned the ignition on... It didn't blow...so then I cranked the car and it fired up but still no spark on cylinder 3. It ran for around 30 seconds then blew the fuse and turned off. I pulled the coil pack and some of the plastic on it was melted....
2. I put in a new coil pack and replaced the blown fuse. Cranked the car and it started but still no spark. BTW the coil pack smells aweful which is probably the burning rubber or plastic.... The car ran for a minute and then I shut it off...No fuses have blown since this... I cranked it a couple more times...still fires up, just not Cylinder 3.
3. Swapped in an OEM Spark plug (I'm running 1422's right now for the tune). Fired it up...still no spark on cylinder 3.
4. I checked the negative battery cable to see if I damage anything moving it out of the way while the ecu was out.... looks to be just fine. I checked the 3 wires on the coil pack wiring...looks fine, from what I can see..
I am at a total loss... The only thing I can think of now is to make sure the grounding wire on the back of the valve cover is making good contact, as advised by a friend of Mario's. It does have some normal looking corrosion on it so I will take it off later and scuff the contact points for the wire and stud it screws into....If this this doesn't work I am going to pull the ECU out and open it up to see if any of the MOFSET chips look damaged or fried.
Good feedback....make sure you have continuity all the way to the ECU. Follow the links i sent earlier.
Also to share my story, I bought a 2012 clubman s with front end collision and evrything was fine except for the MAP sensor. The wires were cut and shorted out. I replaced that sensor three times with no luck until i decided to swap ECUs from another 2011 clubman s i had. The code never came back and so i concluded that the ECU had an internal damage. I bought another one and sent it to i guy in IL to clone it. Everything was fine after that.
Good feedback....make sure you have continuity all the way to the ECU. Follow the links i sent earlier.
Also to share my story, I bought a 2012 clubman s with front end collision and evrything was fine except for the MAP sensor. The wires were cut and shorted out. I replaced that sensor three times with no luck until i decided to swap ECUs from another 2011 clubman s i had. The code never came back and so i concluded that the ECU had an internal damage. I bought another one and sent it to i guy in IL to clone it. Everything was fine after that.
I'm going to check the main grounding wire on the negative battery terminal too...not sure if me pushing the terminal out of the way somehow loosened that enough to cause an issue.
that ground is common for all 4. so if it werent conducting properly, you wouldnt get spark on any coil.
did you clear the codes or disconnect the battery to reset the ECU?
Yes I have tried that. I'm thinking its going to end up as a bad DME. I'm going to send my ECU to be flashed to stock and then tow it to the nearest dealer.
sounds like a plan...in the meantime, look for a replacement DME with a matching number in case the dealer charges you an arm and leg.
I was able to source a DME and get it cloned for 450 i think.
So I am going to go the route of sourcing a used DME and have it cloned. I talked with the guys from bimmergeeks they said $300 to clone it but didn't have any spare DME's in stock for my car. I need a MEVD1727...ill have to scout eBay
