I have a 2008 Mini Cooper S with 110k+ miles and the clutch has just failed. My car has gotten the clutch replaced by the previous owner already in 2013 and it seems to me that the clutch did not last long. My car is fairly stock but might not be that way for long and I was wondering what aftermarket clutch to get. I was thinking about getting a aftermarket stage 2 clutch but Ive read a lot of negative reviews for many aftermarket brands but Ive seen more negative reviews for the OEM clutch. What brands would you recommend and why? or should I stay with an OEM clutch and get a JCW version? Im not too worried about having a harder clutch as my brother has a mustang with racing clutch and I feel like I could get used to it, I just want a clutch that would last long specially since its a pain taking out the clutch and taking it to a mechanic is expensive and Im also thinking about upgrading my MINI after getting it fixed.

 

Mine had 95K on the original clutch when it was changed due to a leaking input shaft seal and it had plenty of wear left on it. It all depends on how you drive. the OEM JCW and "S" clutch kit are the same part number. while your taking the time to do the clutch also replace the input shaft seal and guide tube along with the axle seals and fluid.

 

I did a clutch job at under 70k due to a throwout bearing arm failure. It looked like there was plenty of life in the plate.

 

I didnt know the JCW were the same as the "S" models but how good are the OEM compared to an aftermarket clutch? Im looking for something not too expensive but that will last me a long time. Right now I think of getting a stage 1 or 2 from Clutchmasters or maybe just an OEM one.

 

Verify which clutch you have. My JCW has a dual mass clutch. I took the parts out first before getting a new plate just to be sure. Also an alignment tool is handy.

 

My stock clutch lasted till 110k miles, was on stage 2 tune since a little over 60k miles, no dyno bit ~230hp is the round about whp for a manic tuned stage 2 car. If that's all you plan on doing you should get good life out of it. Started to fade quick after I replaced turbo though.

Replaced mine with a stage 3 kevlar clutch from jmtc with lightened singlemass flywheel

 

I had a dual mass valeo branded one (was replaced before by previous owner) but there are flywheels that can change it to sungle mass and those are like the clutchmasters stage kits and they also come in an aluminum flywheel but im unsure what is better for me on the long run

 

My goal is to have higher horsepower and i read that some upgrades wearout the clutch more so I dont know how well the OEM one will last. Im not looking to upgrade the turbo (but cant guarantee i wont at some point) but did you replace your clutch to an aftermarket one? If you did what did you get and how do you like it.

 

yea sorry i noticed i didnt bother putting what i upgraded to lol, updated the original.
It doesnt feel any different than stock as far as pedal feel, havent changed driving habit much, maybe a little more rev matching. Havent noticed any slipping so far but im still running the standard stage 2 tunes. new tune should be in shortly should be a nice bump in hp I'll see how it hold then

 

Is the clutch dual mass or single? Is it aluminum? Where did you order your clutch? And is it expensive? Im on a budget btw

 

http://jmtcperformance.com/cooper/r5...ge/drivetrain/

single mass 26lb steel flywheel is what i went with, I dont think you're supposed to (or can) resurface the stock dual mass flywheel.
not for minis, but ive heard the aluminum fly wheels just dont last for a street car
it's expensive, but not many choices for upgraded clutch/flywheel... its cheaper than if you're looking at os giken

 

I didnt know that the aluminum flywheels werent good for street. I might go for the steel flyweel then, I just heard a lot of possitive views on the aluminum ones but didnt know much about them

 

If you protect it well a dual mass can take some light sandpaper work. But, in general it is not meant to be refinished. It's because of the construction and the possibility of getting debris into the inside. Mine was lightly used and testing indicated it had plenty of life to it.

 

My R56 clutch went out too, but mine didn't spin when I got on the gas like some other cars ive experienced. the clutch pedal was spongy and low can the clutch disk still grab really good.... any thoughts?

 

Im not sure, if you do end up getting a new clutch i would recommend getting the clutch masters one since its been working fine for me and it was only 900 for both the clutch and flywheel.

 

I actually have the 26 pounder on my workbench right now with the stock valeo clutch waiting on me. I am excited to see how it works.

Sean

 

Can you guys post stock vs aftermarket clutch/flywheel weights? Thanks.

 

Stock flywheel is 28.94

Aftermarket by Clutch Masters is 24~

Aftermarket flywheels can vary by brand but this is the one i used. I would recommend buying dirctly from CM if you are buying as its cheaper

Source:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Inf...20&SVSVSI=6336

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-clutch-m...s/fw635sf~clu/

 

Have a calibrated shipping scale at work. Stock dual mass flywheel with disc and pressure plate is 36 lbs even. OS Giken STR twin disc clutch assembly on the same scales came in at 28.3 lbs.