Sorry Mario, NGK1422's are 16mm (or ⅝") and are not 12 pt, altho a 12 pt will work.

NGK spec sheet indicates the gap should be 0.6mm (0.024") --- pretty close to your 0.020" so they should function OK. But since all engines are different, yours just might not like the smaller gap. Since they're iridium, maybe use a feeler gauge for measurements --- much less stress on the electrode. As mentioned earlier, if you re-gap them, do so very carefully.

My 1422's perform nicely with 91 octane pump gas and an 80 - 20 WMI mix. Even nicer with a mix of 91 and 100 race fuel plus the same WMI mix. Even on map A there's no missing, rough idle, or any other issues.

 

I thought he was talking about the stock plugs.

mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer

 

Well, Arric from JMTC has replied to my email (got my super K03 turbo from him) and is assuring me that I need to increase the gap on these and it's the reason for my issues. He's been pretty spot on with my other issues so looks like I'll be getting the needle nose pliers out and damaging some plugs tonight!

 

Contrary to my better judgement and reluctance to gap the iridium plugs, I'm happy to confirm that a wider gap seems to have worked! For the record, I used the recommendations from JTMC (found here) and opened the gap to 0.026".
I'm using the Manic stage 3 tune on performance mode C with decent 98RON fuel.
Thanks to everyone that replied.

 

Ok, so actually don't use these spark plugs. The rough ideal returned,even after gapping them. I thought this may just be a trade-off of using the colder plugs so I just put up with it. But, on the dyno today I did a few power runs and blew the motor! A lot of fingers are pointing to the spark plugs now. Super Knock occurred

 

What are these spark plugs?

 

I’ve used the manic recommended 1422’s this summer and worked great with zero troubles. I think you had other problems.

 

Did you gap them? Or leave them as they were out of the box?
I could've had other problems, but until I put in those plugs everything was running smoothly. I had all the correct supporting mods, and running the correct fuel. Only other thing could've been a piston ring failure. Still investigating. It made 260bhp on the dyno run before it blew, which was quite impressive.

 

I didn’t gap them. I autocross the car and ride the rev limiter all the time. Oil samples came back clean too. Water/meth injection is a must for these. Keeps things clean and cool.

 

That’s sucks.

I’ve been using the plugs for 20,000 miles with no issues.

 

Don't judge the plugs 'til you do a tear-down and find all the damage. Last time mine blew, I found CYL #1 plug (1422) lost the ground electrode, but I also had zero compression while the other three were OK. On teardown, I found one of the #1 exhaust valves and its seat burnt. When it blew, I was on a power run and it was a hot day. Cylinder heat took out the plug electrode and a valve. My tuner suggested my WMI distribution needs to be improved --- to help cylinder cooling, so that's my current project --- adding WMI to each port, in addition to the usual jet placement up-stream from the MAP/T sensor. I also replaced all valves with inconel (Ex) and SS (In), to help withstand the heat my power runs create.

Let us know what you find?

 

 

Need some advice - I just replaced my plugs with the NGK (95770) ILZKBR7B8DG, basically direct replacement from factory.

I have a 2010 R56 JCW (N14 engine) running stage 2 with the accessport.

Should I be using NGK 1422s? Is there any noticeable difference?

 

Try .028”. I have seen some Minis like a slightly larger gap. Also make sure the plugs are are solid don’t slide in and out

Mario

mQubed Motorsport Manic & RPM Power Tuning

 

Comparing performance with sets of new plugs of each type, you probably won't see any noticeable difference. Obviously, replacing a set of 95770's with 50K miles on them, with a set of new 1422's, will show noticeable improvements. I found the 1422's (one heat range colder) to have better reliability --- less breakage under high performance conditions.

 

Oldbrokenwind - Thanks for the quick reply. I'll keep this in mind. I ordered a set of 1422s so I may try swapping them later this summer.

 

Also worth checking to see if you have genuine NGK plugs as lots of fakes are being sold.

Search "how to spot fake ngk spark plugs" just to be on the safer side.

 

Thanks for the tip. Didn't even think about this. I already installed my factory replacement plugs that I got on Amazon. I'll have to check them.

 

Just out of interest, has anyone tried the alternative spark plug listed "NGK 91448 Double Iridium"?

 

If the accessport stage 2 is more aggressive in timing then you might notice a difference. I have stage 2 manic and the 95770 was not good enough, the car kept pulling timing which means pre ignition and/or detonation. After the 1422 I had no problems.

 

I contacted m7 to find out what the 1 stage colder plug is so I could give them a try. My R56 N14 has Manic Stage 2, many m7 parts and well beyond support. They wouldn't give me the part number and told me to do my own research.

I had been confused with other threads I have read and wanted to cut to the chase. I contacted NGK directly and they told me........
Hello Kelley,
Thank you for contacting us! You can use NGK 97506 SILZKBR8D8S Laser Iridium Spark Plug: https://www.ngk.com/ngk-97506-silzkb...ium-spark-plug this is 1 step colder with similar specs of the ILZKBR7B-8DG.

Best Regards,
Murphy

I also contacted Mario as well as reading some other thread that OBW1 (slang for old broken wind FYI) had said to run the 1422 ILKR8E6. This thread points in that same direction.

I read other threads where tuners on the other side of the pond are running ILZKR8C-8G very expensive and only available on ebay from Europe. Guys on the thread sounded like track hawks.

Soooo. Technology may have changed with NGK as this is now 2021. I opted to go with the 1422 regardless and use it first. My car runs well with stock plugs but I wanted to test things and get to the optimum.

I will likely try the ones in the future that NGK suggested as I am doing my own research.

Just some food for thought.





​​​​​​​Kelley

 

I've been running the NGK 1422s since getting my Manic stage 2, and have never had spark issues. I change them out every spring to make sure the engine stays healthy. (cheap insurance) I'm now running a Prototype-R stage 2 tune, and still on the 1422 plugs.

 

This recommended plug from NGK has a similar part number to the OEM plug. Main difference appears to be the "Special Washer" --- different from the OEM plug and described by the "S" in the part number. The ILZ~ characters all have a specific meaning / description, and a couple of them seem to be "update revisions" or lot codes.

One advantage to this NGK 97506 (stock number, not part number) is it uses the same spark plug socket wrench size as the OEM (14mm, 12-pt). The NGK 1422 uses a different size (16mm, 6-pt).

I'm still learning how to navigate the NGK.com site. Finding the complete selection for our engines hasn't been easy, and I still don't have it, just the ones I need.

 

Any issue running these on a stock cooper s?(2013 N18) needing new plugs and will be going intercooler, down pipe and remap quite soon and was going to upgrade to these just now instead of buying twice.

Good idea or not?

cheers in advance

 

Wondering the same thing, except I already have the mods and waiting for a stage 2 RPM tune