My R56 is in the good hands of Way at WayMotorWorks for a rebuild of the engine internals. It's already been modified quite a bit...

But here's my question for you: since the engine'll be out of the car and apart, what else would you do? What'd be on your "since you're in there..." list.

 

I don't think anyone could answer this question better than Waylen himself

 

Agreed!

 

Think about porting the head; then match manifolds to ported head. If new compression ratio is lower, maybe hi-lift cams, lift/duration depending on ultimate usage. Valve springs to keep up with cams? While it's apart, how about an LSD for the tranny? And then there's a lighter clutch/flywheel for some awesome acceleration. There's more (not necessarily internal) if you're trying for 300+ numbers --- I need some healthy competition.

I'm always happy to help others spend their money!

 

Will be moving into the assembly phase the first week of January.
Goodies include: 9.5:1 CP pistons and Carillo rods, WMW performance cams, Turbosmart plumbback, and an ECS Luft-Technik intake. Various other brake, bay and interior bits as well.
Looking forward to getting back behind the wheel of Buzz!

 

Does anyone have any expectations of what before and after is like between stock cams and these aftermarket ones?

We are getting our car to hold power right to 7,000 rpm on stock cams.

I'd like to know what people expect.

We are also running on an unmodified head.

Cheers and good luck with the build. :-)

RW

 

Before I selected my Cat Cams, I looked at the WMW selection. Since there were no specs on lift or duration, they were promptly eliminated as an option. Anyone have the WMW cam specs --- are they afraid to advertise specs 'cause they're not competitive with other hi performance cams?

As for comparison to OEM cams, I won't be able to help there --- too many other changes at the same time. I'm told that my Cat version, 1302603, will lose low-end performance while gaining at high-end. How this will combine with my other choices is TBD. We'll see what a dyno chart looks like --- at my current build rate, maybe this spring.

 

That makes sense. Thanks.

 

Lol, I'd figure out a way to put in a Focus St engine...lol

 

Do you have a mechanical LSD installed already? That would be a great option for the power you will be making. Also, an upgraded clutch and flywheel.

I would also suggest a modest suspension upgrade with the IE Fixed Camber Plates.

 

Ok, so I just double up on oldbrokenwind's suggestions (missed them on my first read through )

 

Alas ... Buzz sports an automatic. Too much headache to think about a conversion.
I'm hoping to walk right up to the edge of the Aisin ...

 

Nothing wrong with having an automatic. These cars are just as quick with an auto as they are with a stick. And I know people who run them on the track and do quite well with them.

However, I'm not sure what you are referring to about doing a conversion. Is it with respect to what we suggested?

 

Definitely unapologetic about the auto ... paddling the Dragon and Wayah and all those other nearby mountain twisties is a blast.

Other thoughts? Can't lower unless I ditch my FSDs (not anytime soon). The engine's got maybe 2-3k on it, but this build resets that clock anyway, and everything else (pumps, etc.) is new.

 

I'm curious how you'd drive competively w/ the auto. All my Minis were auto (current is '14 MCSa) and I drive exclusively in 'manual' mode. It drives me nuts when it downshifts by itself; I let it upshift if the r's are near the top end.

Do people race with it in full auto mode ? Just wondering.
-Mike

 

The people I have known who run auto MINIs on the track are doing HPDEs. They have the paddle shifters and use them like the the high end cars with the dual-clutch (hope I got that right) trannies. So I guess they must be running in manual mode in their MINIs. They like the auto as they don't have to let go of the steering wheel, the shifts are fast and it makes left foot braking easier.

 

I'm far from a good driver, but when I did a HDPE at watkins glen this year, I left it in full auto and sport mode. It shifts up by itself at 6500, and downshifts under braking. Occasional odd downshifts (feels painful to go wide open and downshift to 6000 coming out of a corner), but it allowed this newbie to try and concentrate on lines and braking.

Mike

 

I remember my first HPDE and feeling somewhat overwhelmed and including the need to shift just added to be overwhelmed. Sounds like having the auto worked out well for you.

BTW - I visit WGI quite frequently. It is a great track that should be on everyone's bucket list.

 

Brief update: Christmas brought a few goodies to be added (including the beautiful ECS Tuning Kohlefaser Luft-Technik Intake). Machine shop's next up: Here's a majority of the engine, just prior to being shipped off for balance + assembly.

I'm midway through doing the Joey mod (black + mellow yellow projector rings) while I wait... painful to cook apart the lights, but straightforward otherwise.

 

Since it's at the machine shop ... Port and polish?
Pros / cons?

 

Yes!

 

Port and polish underway.
Bumping CP Pistons from 77.0mm to 77.5mm (9.5 comp) due to clearance measurements (machine shop find the cylinders true but just slightly beyond CP's recommendation).
The saga continues...

 

A brief update: at long, long last, the engine's back from the machine shop and ready for installation. Pics soon, and then... the break-in. Any recommendations?

 

Cheap mineral oil. 500 easy miles. Next 500 slightly more enthusiastic but still easy. Change to synthetic oil. Next 500 start building up to medium then full throttle by the end. After 1500 if it's all holding together right you should have more confidence in all your hard work.

People often want to hear about a short run in period but its your hard earned cash that was involved in the build so you should protect it properly with a calm run in.

I look forward to hearing other opinions ​​



SRW

 

I asked a couple knowledgeable friends the same question. Here's a quote from one of them ---
"Back when I had my bike shop I would break in my motors by driving down the road bringing each gear up in the rpms and let the motor drag back down to a lower rpm and shift and do the same in the next gear. Slowly I would increase the rpm before the next shift but I ALWAYS let the motor drag down to lower rpm before shifting. About 10-15 min drive doing this. I'm a firm believer in breaking in the rings on boths sides and by letting the motor drag down in rpms you breaking in the back side. Then we would load it on the trailer and go to the drag strip. There we would make 3 passes increasing the shift points higher and higher till at normal max rpm. "
The other response was similar in accel / decel handling. Neither one is safe to do in city driving, but I'm out in the boondocks with lotsa wide open hiway --- hiway 50 in Northern NV --- "the loneliest road in the country".

Try doing a search on "engine break-in" for other opinions.