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Drivetrain Recirculation / Diverter Valve Upgrade

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Old Jan 7, 2019 | 10:51 AM
  #26  
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Hey Tigger, I just bought de GFB +... it is a good option ?
 
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Old Jan 7, 2019 | 12:46 PM
  #27  
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I personally haven't used a GFB+. From reports most people are happy with it but a few have had issues (CEL) or fitment and had to remove it. Those seem to be in the minority though.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2019 | 04:24 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Cesar_lopez
Hey Tigger, I just bought de GFB +... it is a good option ?
I have had the GFB DV+ on my R60 for close to a year now with no issues. Just make sure to oil the piston before you install it. Seems to work great at 22psi of boost. My biggest complaint is that it’s a little on the quiet side. Lol.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2019 | 10:20 AM
  #29  
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Thanks @Tigger2011 , im planning one of these days a trip to Miami for the tuning...

Thanks @MrGrumpy I also have a HKS BOV
 
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Old Jan 11, 2019 | 10:28 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Cesar_lopez
Thanks @Tigger2011 , im planning one of these days a trip to Miami for the tuning...

Thanks @MrGrumpy I also have a HKS BOV
No problem, the DV+ is a great little diverter. And hold boost between shifts very well. The complaint about its volume is really not a big deal and under higher boost it does let out a nice paaah kind of air blast. It sounds cool, just on the quieter side.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2020 | 10:56 AM
  #31  
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Bumping this to show my experience. The DV was good until it wasn't. Sustained runs at 22psi killed this little guy.



 
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Old Dec 1, 2020 | 07:02 PM
  #32  
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Diverter valve

Hey quick question would you recommend just upgrading to the updated dv or get the updated dv and switch the spring for alta? What would be the difference? Currently have a 2008 n14 r55 running rpm stage 2
 
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Old Dec 1, 2020 | 07:55 PM
  #33  
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Hi Kds96. Looks like you already had the uprated Pierburg unit on yours but it developed a fracture in the outer shell. Possibly heat and/or fatigue induced. When installing the new valve the torque spec is 7 Nm but 10 Nm should be fine. Roughly 5 to 7 ft/lbs.

I wouldn't bother with the Alta spring. No real benefit as stock valve held 25 psi fine. As I recall the Alta spring didn't really fit that well anyways so I ended up throwing it away.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2020 | 08:06 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Tigger2011
Hi Kds96. Looks like you already had the uprated Pierburg unit on yours but it developed a fracture in the outer shell. Possibly heat and/or fatigue induced. When installing the new valve the torque spec is 7 Nm but 10 Nm should be fine. Roughly 5 to 7 ft/lbs.

I wouldn't bother with the Alta spring. No real benefit as stock valve held 25 psi fine. As I recall the Alta spring didn't really fit that well anyways so I ended up throwing it away.
Well actually I installed a new oem borgwarner oem replacement turbo about a year ago with very little driving on stock tune, ngk 1422 plugs, milltek catted dp, alta turbo inlet, m7 intake filter, bigger intercooler, solid piping for intake system with sound generator and muffler delete. Barely got tuned a month ago since new turbo but always noticed it wouldnt hold boost correctly everytime but still pulls so found out the dv leaks especially with more boost so even though I installed a new oem turbo I have a feeling the dv on it is the older design, so thats why im upgrading to newer design so it could hold boost better but was wondering if the alta spring would make difference on newer design and you answered my question really appreciate it
 
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Old Dec 1, 2020 | 08:35 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Tigger2011
Hi Kds96. Looks like you already had the uprated Pierburg unit on yours but it developed a fracture in the outer shell. Possibly heat and/or fatigue induced. When installing the new valve the torque spec is 7 Nm but 10 Nm should be fine. Roughly 5 to 7 ft/lbs.

I wouldn't bother with the Alta spring. No real benefit as stock valve held 25 psi fine. As I recall the Alta spring didn't really fit that well anyways so I ended up throwing it away.
That was me and I can assure you it was installed correctly. I think I just got unlucky. I'm pretty sure you are right in that heat and fatigue killed it. Twenty minute sessions on Road Atlanta in June will do that lol. It held 22.5 consistently for the first four sessions, but by the end of the day something felt off. It still held boost (but wouldn't reach peak) for 5 sessions on Sunday, but it was defiantly not right.

Originally Posted by Kds96
Well actually I installed a new oem borgwarner oem replacement turbo about a year ago with very little driving on stock tune, ngk 1422 plugs, milltek catted dp, alta turbo inlet, m7 intake filter, bigger intercooler, solid piping for intake system with sound generator and muffler delete. Barely got tuned a month ago since new turbo but always noticed it wouldnt hold boost correctly everytime but still pulls so found out the dv leaks especially with more boost so even though I installed a new oem turbo I have a feeling the dv on it is the older design, so thats why im upgrading to newer design so it could hold boost better but was wondering if the alta spring would make difference on newer design and you answered my question really appreciate it
For what it's worth, after two failed valves I went with the Forge recirc. It has held up well so far.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2020 | 04:42 AM
  #36  
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Seems a lot of people are having good luck with the Forge units lately. I went with Turbosmart and been very happy but recently they appear to have developed a quality issue. Also seen a lot of issues with GFB as well. Seems quality is becoming a rare thing these days.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2020 | 03:48 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Tigger2011
Seems a lot of people are having good luck with the Forge units lately. I went with Turbosmart and been very happy but recently they appear to have developed a quality issue. Also seen a lot of issues with GFB as well. Seems quality is becoming a rare thing these days.
I'm still using the new revision of the OEM DV, installed an Alta spring in it. No issues.

Friend of mine installed the GFB unit and it was fine when his car was stock, when he tuned the car to stage 2 (Dervtech) however it was causing overboosting problems so he removed it.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2020 | 05:15 AM
  #38  
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Another note on the Forge. This thing will come loose, so it requires constant attention.


 
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Old Dec 6, 2020 | 10:58 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by scotty_r56s
Another note on the Forge. This thing will come loose, so it requires constant attention.
Well it certainly shouldn't be coming loose. Either you're not torquing the bolts to spec or you should add some blue loctite.

Also, if those are stainless cap screws they are generally the wrong choice for use in aluminum and regular steel would be a better choice.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2020 | 11:33 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Gubi
Well it certainly shouldn't be coming loose. Either you're not torquing the bolts to spec or you should add some blue loctite.

Also, if those are stainless cap screws they are generally the wrong choice for use in aluminum and regular steel would be a better choice.
I'm pointing at the cap that holds the spring. The cap screws have been torqued properly and have not come loose. Those are the cap screws that were included with the DV.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2020 | 01:38 PM
  #41  
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That cap should not be coming loose either. Are you sure it was tight before?
 
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Old Dec 6, 2020 | 05:27 PM
  #42  
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Yeah, I had an issue with it after Roebling back in September. It was loose so I cranked it down. I check it pretty often and it's usually tight, but sure enough it was loose again today at the track. Which explains why it started to struggle towards the end of the day on Saturday. Since I have the two DV that have cracked, I'm going to swap the good internals to the good housing and see if it works. Nope. They are different sizes I'm probably going to just buy two from FCP Euro so that I can have a good DV on hand for when the next one ***** the bed. Apparently this is one of those things that will work out great with their lifetime replacement warranty.

Went ahead and ordered 11658636606 through FCP Euro. If that doesn't sort out the inconsistent boost issue, the car is going up for sale and I'm buying an used SPEC E46.
 

Last edited by scotty_r56s; Dec 7, 2020 at 06:18 AM. Reason: Update
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Old Dec 7, 2020 | 08:42 AM
  #43  
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Another thought on the cap coming loose: I have solid upper and lower motor mounts. The car vibrates like mad. Maybe that contributes to the issue?
 
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Old Dec 7, 2020 | 09:45 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by scotty_r56s
Another thought on the cap coming loose: I have solid upper and lower motor mounts. The car vibrates like mad. Maybe that contributes to the issue?
just wondering if you have tried blue loctite or some like that? I know you want to service it or change springs, that’s why I was thinking blue over red.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2020 | 09:51 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Jason Cornelius
just wondering if you have tried blue loctite or some like that? I know you want to service it or change springs, that’s why I was thinking blue over red.
That's a good idea and would probably work. I'm just going to remove it and be done with it.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2020 | 08:34 AM
  #46  
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I have seen the caps come loose if someone changes the spring and does not give it a good tighten. Mine was tight when i installed it and ran it. Locite would give it the extra protection. The solid mounts could be causing some heavy vibrations.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2020 | 08:48 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by ECSTuning
I have seen the caps come loose if someone changes the spring and does not give it a good tighten. Mine was tight when i installed it and ran it. Locite would give it the extra protection. The solid mounts could be causing some heavy vibrations.
The solid mounts make the car shake like mad. I have co-witness marks on pretty much every bolt so that I can see if they are backing out and re-torque as needed. the cap coming loose has been a pretty constant problem since I installed it back in June. It works great on the street, but the track kills it. I've ordered the OEM valve (11658636606) and will probably keep it in the spares bag. The Forge costs too much to toss in the bin. I'll take the advice of @Jason Cornelius and put some blue loctite one. I'm also going to put it in a vice and crank that cap on as tight as possible. I would think that there would be a gasket under that cap. I'm starting to wonder if I'm missing something.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2022 | 04:58 PM
  #48  
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When I search my vin last 7 dig on realoem (manual tranny, 2009 R55 S - N14) and find the electric valve (diverter) I click the part on my car and when it shows newer parts for the diverter valve, it never shows the revised part ppl are talking about here, ending in 6606.
and when I search on a few parts websites, the part number ending in ...6606 is not for a 2009.
Am I missing something?
 
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Old Apr 3, 2022 | 05:05 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Clockwork
When I search my vin last 7 dig on realoem (manual tranny, 2009 R55 S - N14) and find the electric valve (diverter) I click the part on my car and when it shows newer parts for the diverter valve, it never shows the revised part ppl are talking about here, ending in 6606.
and when I search on a few parts websites, the part number ending in ...6606 is not for a 2009.
Am I missing something?
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-pierburg...658636606~pie/

I can confirm I ran this on mine, and you can see it’s for the n14, I carry one as a spare just in case. I put one on an n18 as well. I’m running a CTS BOV kit with no issues now.
 
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Old May 4, 2022 | 08:36 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by PelicanParts.com
Some good info! Thanks for sharing. Here is the compatibility on real OEM for that part number.



Part here for anyone interested as well: http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...&I1.x=0&I1.y=0
thats interesting that realoem showed back then, 2016, that this part would for the R55 pre-LCI, as when I search for it now on realoem.com to confirm it would fit my 2009 R55 S (N14) it doesnt show as compatiable...
 
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