Howdy,

I did a search but came up with nothing...
I recently changed my head and cams, and now my check engine light is on...I checked it out, and it's the cams that are producing the light....does this mean that they were put on wrong, or is it normal for the light to come on?
If it's not normal, what do you think it could be, and what should I do?

Thanks,

L

 

there is only one cam! I have changed mine a few times with no CEL.

1. the rpm sensor is mounted to the head and takes its reading from the cam sprocket; check that out.

2. It is possible the the chain tensioner is not working, allowing the cam timing to vary with on/off throttle. that might trigger the CEL via a wobbly RPM signal.

3. it is possible your cam timing is off due to a slipped tooth during head/cam install; I'm not sure how that would trigger the CEL...it would definitely throw off the rpm sensor with respect to crank, and igniton timning is triggered off the crank)

What is your error code and how do you know it is the cam at fault?

 

The service people at the dealership told me the light is caused by the cams...I'll tell them to check out how they are installed and hopefully they can tell me more.


I'll get you the code once I get it...thanks

L

 

I agree with John, check out your RPM sensor on the cam sprocket and that the chain tensioner is working.

An OBDII code would also be helpful, but it sounds like the dealership is generalizing the blame on aftermarket parts and forgetting about installation error possibility.

Let us know what you find.

 

how long ago did you do this what year is your car what head did you use and who did the work

thx

 

According to the dealership, the error is coming from the TB. They say it has been opened and the gears have been moved around...very very strange. I'll try and get the codes for you later today.

L

 

woah woah - now they're saying it's the Throttle Body?

do you happen to have an aftermarket TB?

 

Yes...I got one from Randy Webb a long time ago so I know there's nothing wrong with it...at least not originally


I'll ask them for the codes after lunch and relay them to you

L

 

Here are the codes that the car is showing

DME-PO341 Camshaft Sensor 1 (bank 1) - measuring range or power-output problem ----- signal implausible ------ Currently present ----- Last atat: km reading (mileage) 0km - Last atat: engine speed 1132.0 rpm - Last atat: Battery voltage 12.0v - Last atat: Vehicule Speed fault no - Last atat: intake air pressure 1001.3hPa - Fault Frequency 1
Camshaft sensor B1213_R5ONWG

DSC - 5E5D Level Sensor, brake fluid - - - Fault currenty not present

Dsc - 5E19 CAN data fault from DME/DDE (DSC) lamp on as long as error is present) - - - - Fault currently present


While I was there, they showed me the wiring harness and it was in bad shape, so we changed it, and that took care of some of the faults, but the ones above remain.

They say it's the Throttle Motor. They took mine out, put it in another carm and it showed the same codes...I asked them to put the other car's in my car to see if it is in fact the Throttle Motor/body.

Hope it'l be solved soon.

L

 

I don't see what a camshaft position sensor fault has to do with the throttle body.

 

It's becoming clear that your delaer is the only one who is going to be able to help you with this problem.

The OBD-II codes keep jumping all over the place, from the throttle-position-sensor, to the MAP sensor, to the camshaft sensor to the brake-fluid sensor, to the CAN-bus.

Your car is messed-up a-plenty.

I certainly suspect a wiring-loom problem. Problems like this don't just jump from sensor-to-senor like that.

Did you 100% make sure all the gruond straps got reconnected completely when the flywheel was changed?

For 100% sure?

 

Yea, this is messed up, and Trippy is right; problems don't jump from sensor to sensor.

Samawil - The dealer is saying they get a P0341 Code when they plug your TB into another car? How does a bad cam-position sensor transfer via a TB to another car?

 

My point exactly...I'm gonna tell them to REinstall the wiring harness. Maybe something went wrong when they put it on....

Man this sucks.

L

 

So the latest on this is that they installed a stock TB on my car and the faults were still there (including some others) so he's saying that the only other thing he thinks it might be is the DME...


I'm gonna go get my car later on today, and I've already ordered a code reader (M5 X5 something like that...)so I'll read the codes my self and check with you guys

L

 

Hi Samawil,

So,sorry to hear that your car is also facing the problem.When it start to happen?You were not telling me about it till now.

So at least you will be getting your R5 Reset Tool soon.It helps a lot.As for my problem,it's still the same and waiting for this coming weekend to drive down to the city to do the Unichip remapping again on the air/fuel and ignition timing.I do also ordered all the sensors available on this MCS for standby should the remapping fail.

Let me know your outcome should your dearler able to solve your problem.

Cheers,
Peter.

 

The dealer is saying that my DME is not reading the signals correctly from the busses because they checked, and the signals leaving the busses are correct, but the DME says they are wrong. So they wanted to change my DME, but before that, they want to return my car to Stock...I said no thank you and took my car back...now I'll wait and see what I decide to do.


L

 

samawil,

This is most likely a wiring harness problem. ...Not battery, but as Trippy said "Wiring loom".

I had similar problems, that lasted for several months. Dealer made all kinds of claims as to what it was- none of which were accurate. Dealer wasn't able to repair the car... that is, until I sent them an email containing everything relevant I could find on the subject on mini2. Coincidence? I think not!

After they repaired the car they wouldn't even tell me (truthfully) what they'd done/needed to replace - claimed that it was all solved my changing plugs, wires, throttle body & coil. ...But all items were put back on the car and it ran FINE. As for the throttle body it either works or it doesn't. Its rare for one to go, as its mostly mechanical - gears and such. jlm would have a much better idea of what (if anything) could go wrong with a T/B.

Here's a few excerpts & what I sent the MINI tech guy. The links/search relates to "misfire", but a misfire is just a result or symptom of the REAL problem.

http://www.mini2.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48402&highlight=misfirehttp://www.mini2.com/forum/showthrea...hlight=misfire
http://www.mini2.com/forum/showthrea...hlight=misfire

QUOTE:
... you may have the old type wiring harness on youre car and it may need the new one fitting?The difference is how the connector plugs onto the throttle body.It will be a straight/inline connector plug and the new one as a 90 degree connector block on it so it does not rub against the air intake pipe to the air box.The movement causes a resistance change in the connector block and sporadically shorts out/changes the resistance of the contact pics inside the block connector.[/font]


Quote:
Also check and see if the engine wiring harness is rubbing through down the side of the engine between the cylinder head and the battery(if it is a cooper) or between the air box and cylinder head(if it is a cooper s) The wiring harness is rubbing through on minis at the point where it goes round the back of the engine and down to the oxygen sensors and starter motor.

Excerpt from the following thread: http://www.mini2.com/forum/showthrea...hlight=misfire

Good luck with the problem - be sure to call Randy about this. He hears a lot about this stuff and sometimes has good suggestions.

 

Thanks for the reply Minimc.


I ordered a code reader and it should have arrived last week, only to find out that they haven't shipped it yet...but once I get it, I'll post here and other places what codes are showing up and hopefully we can get to the bottom of this.

Inceidently, they already changed the wiring harness, and double checked it (at my request) they tried another TB (or throttle Motor as they call it) and they said that the faults were still there. They changed the DSC module, and the DSC light is still coming on. In the end they are saying that after checking everything extensively, everything seems to be working fine except for the way the dme is interpreting the data being sent to it.

L

 

Sounds like the DME is the final frontier, as is sounds like it's the only thing they haven't changed yet.

 

Dont know what to say. I had a adjustable cam gear made to go with my cam.
I was a pain in a half to get the timing to where I wanted, without the the light turning on. The thing I also needed it to be tuned right for drivability. With the complicated systems on these cars man its a pain. Good luck man with your car.

 

If you folks (CooperSdriver & samawil) don't mind sharing... exactly which cam did each of you install, and were they street performance or "race" models?

TIA
mc

 

to tell you the truth, I'm not sure. I know they are Schricks, but I'll ask and get back to you.


L

 

Once upon a time, a long long time ago I reset BMP's Blue Thunder's EDU with my scantool because his cam tripped the CEL. I dont remember exactly what the code was but it wasnt a cam related code, it had something to do with the new way it inhaled.... doesnt sound like the same problem you're having.


--
Cheese

 

Ok, so I just got my code reader, tryed it out, and the only code that is coming up is P0341 - Camshaft Position Sensor 'A' Circuit Range/Performance.

I reset it, and when I turned the engine on the "Check engine soon" light went off, but the dsc light is still on. I think, from reading the manual, that this code reader does not clear lights like dsc, but if there was an error, it should at least be able to read it no? btw, it's the Mini + from BMP designs.
http://www.promini.com/product-exec/...category_id/35

I thought it was going to be huge, but it's tiny...which is great.

Does anyone have any ideas as to what it is?

Is it that the cam was installed incorrectly?

Thanks for the help,

L

 

see post 2. unfortunately, cam timing is not easy to check