Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Daily Driver r53 MUST HAVE parts?

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  #26  
Old 02-15-2015, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by bavmotors
The miltek is so quiet you won't have to worry about that. Why anyone spends $1000 for a slightly louder sound is beyond me.
Why even get an exhaust really, I am thinking of doing the 1 ball mod with new tips...
 
  #27  
Old 02-15-2015, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by minintrigue
so i've had a R53/R52 for 7 years, and by far the best mod ive done are the JCW steering wheel, and the cravenspeed flexpod mount. i did the JCW wheel right away, but the flexpod mount only recently... so wish i had done it earlier. also, get a whalen shift ****. great mod.

I just ordered the JCW steering wheel last night, as well as the JCW shifter. I'm pretty excited about it.
 
  #28  
Old 02-15-2015, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Alingarhs
I just ordered the JCW steering wheel last night, as well as the JCW shifter. I'm pretty excited about it.
Cool.

How do you like the engine mount you are running? The factory (MINI) just installed a stock one on my r53 as it was broken and I was thinking of getting the TSW stabilizer to help maintain the life of the stock one..thoughts?
 
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Old 02-15-2015, 10:44 PM
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The Vibra-technics mount does the job well and comfortably. Paired with the BSH lower, there is some noticeable NVH, but not anywhere near intolerable. I like it. Cant speak on behalf of the TSW though, never had one.
 
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Old 02-16-2015, 05:14 AM
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I had the TSW and the vibra teknics, along with the BSH lower mount, and the NVH was way too much for me. I know a lot of people love the change in feel, and are willing to put up with the noise and vibration, not me. I will just replace the stock mount every 40K.
 
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Old 02-16-2015, 06:14 AM
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Better tires and brakes. Not only do they make driving more fun, they also can potentially save your ***.
 
  #32  
Old 02-16-2015, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by minintrigue
I had the TSW and the vibra teknics, along with the BSH lower mount, and the NVH was way too much for me. I know a lot of people love the change in feel, and are willing to put up with the noise and vibration, not me. I will just replace the stock mount every 40K.
What is nvh if you don't mind me asking? I am thinking also of just keeping it stock and replacing when needed as another cheaper option.
 
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Old 02-16-2015, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Steffen.Johnson
What is nvh if you don't mind me asking?
Noise, vibration, and harshness
 
  #34  
Old 02-16-2015, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Steffen.Johnson
Cool.

How do you like the engine mount you are running? The factory (MINI) just installed a stock one on my r53 as it was broken and I was thinking of getting the TSW stabilizer to help maintain the life of the stock one..thoughts?
One tip...
If you do go to a header, you need to go to a stiffer engine mount or the flex joints/basket Wears and fails....
 
  #35  
Old 02-16-2015, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by ZippyNH
One tip... If you do go to a header, you need to go to a stiffer engine mount or the flex joints/basket Wears and fails....
I don't ever plan on going header, maybe and a big maybe is cat back but that's it.. And thanks I think I'll just stick with the stock if it's gonna be all that trouble and difference for the aftermarket more expensive one
 
  #36  
Old 02-16-2015, 09:44 AM
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Yeah, header is a bit noisy, I had one on for a bit.

Nik
 
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Old 02-16-2015, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by xsmini
Yeah, header is a bit noisy, I had one on for a bit. Nik
This is my daily I don't want to be driving a race car to work 1 hour each way when I'm 30 haha
 
  #38  
Old 02-16-2015, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Steffen.Johnson
This is my daily I don't want to be driving a race car to work 1 hour each way when I'm 30 haha
Same here...
I get about 35,000 from a mount...can get them for about $85-95 if you look around...
I would keep a spare bolt for it onhand, the long one...about a $4 part...
When the mount leaks, the bolt gets covered in goo and can corrode...a decent mini shop will swap it out if you don't feel like diying it for about $200 and 15-30 minutes of time.
 
  #39  
Old 02-16-2015, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by ZippyNH
Same here... I get about 35,000 from a mount...can get them for about $85-95 if you look around... I would keep a spare bolt for it onhand, the long one...about a $4 part... When the mount leaks, the bolt gets covered in goo and can corrode...a decent mini shop will swap it out if you don't feel like diying it for about $200 and 15-30 minutes of time.
Luckily I was able to convince the insurance company this happened in the accident I had. So they just replaced a brand new one on my mini today I guess I got 35,000 miles to go now haha
 
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Old 02-16-2015, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Steffen.Johnson
Luckily I was able to convince the insurance company this happened in the accident I had. So they just replaced a brand new one on my mini today I guess I got 35,000 miles to go now haha
Zippy-is there anything you can add to the stock one like a support or something?
 
  #41  
Old 02-17-2015, 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by ZippyNH
One tip...
If you do go to a header, you need to go to a stiffer engine mount or the flex joints/basket Wears and fails....
Or use a donut type flange and gasket.

Transverse mounted engines (most FWD) twist in a different direction than longitudinally mounted engines (RWD). The direction in which the motor rotates in many ways dictates which type of flex section is more appropriate. I've had a flawless history using donut type on transverse motors and braided flex sections on longitudinally mounted motors.
 
  #42  
Old 02-18-2015, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by TheBigChill
Or use a donut type flange and gasket.

Transverse mounted engines (most FWD) twist in a different direction than longitudinally mounted engines (RWD). The direction in which the motor rotates in many ways dictates which type of flex section is more appropriate. I've had a flawless history using donut type on transverse motors and braided flex sections on longitudinally mounted motors.
Is it hard to change the lower engine mounts on my own?
 
  #43  
Old 02-18-2015, 03:25 PM
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Nope, just two bolts and some wiggling.
 
  #44  
Old 02-18-2015, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Alingarhs
Nope, just two bolts and some wiggling.
Ok awesome. So what are the best brands and what do I need to do all the mounts at once? I already have the engine mount passenger side what other ones are there?
 
  #45  
Old 02-18-2015, 07:56 PM
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The upper mount you generally have 3 choices.
OEM, TSW mount, or the vibra-technics.

OEM mount needs replaces every 40k miles, but offers the best comfort.

Vibratechics is the in middle and the most expensive, but I love mine.

TSW from what I hear is pretty harsh and rattles the whole car, but is the firmest when it comes to engine movement.

The lower mount, I think there is another 3 options.

OEM. Again, the most comfortable. From what i hear it doesn't wear nearly as fast as the upper.

BSH, is what I have. I like it paired with the upper I have. Does make some noticeable NVH.

I've also heard of poly inserts for the OEM mount, I dont know much about them.

I've heard the transmission mount doesn't really make much a difference changing out so I wont bother doing mine.


Here is a link how to do both the upper and lower.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm
 
  #46  
Old 02-19-2015, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Alingarhs
The upper mount you generally have 3 choices.
OEM, TSW mount, or the vibra-technics.

OEM mount needs replaces every 40k miles, but offers the best comfort.

Vibratechics is the in middle and the most expensive, but I love mine.

TSW from what I hear is pretty harsh and rattles the whole car, but is the firmest when it comes to engine movement.

The lower mount, I think there is another 3 options.

OEM. Again, the most comfortable. From what i hear it doesn't wear nearly as fast as the upper.

BSH, is what I have. I like it paired with the upper I have. Does make some noticeable NVH.

I've also heard of poly inserts for the OEM mount, I dont know much about them.

I've heard the transmission mount doesn't really make much a difference changing out so I wont bother doing mine.


Here is a link how to do both the upper and lower.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm
Thank you so much for the response. I will most likely be going with the stock lower, since I just got the stock upper installed by MINI this week. I wonder if I will see a huge difference??? Its been that way for a while and I didn't even know..
 
  #47  
Old 02-25-2015, 10:26 AM
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I like the Powerflex poly inserts for the lower engine mount. I run that with stock upper mount and it's the right NVH compromise for me. A bit of vibration with AC on but that has settled down with some mileage.

- Andy
 
  #48  
Old 02-26-2015, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by andyroo
I like the Powerflex poly inserts for the lower engine mount. I run that with stock upper mount and it's the right NVH compromise for me. A bit of vibration with AC on but that has settled down with some mileage.

- Andy
You know I never really even noticed the NVH when the mount was bad never mind when it is fixed haha. I am too in love with my mini to notice this stuff. Did you install this stuff yourself?
 
  #49  
Old 02-26-2015, 08:13 AM
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I couldn't stand driving the car with the blown upper mount. Sloppy as poop.

Adding the the powerflex lower engine mount inserts was pretty easy.

Replacing the upper mount (with the OEM unit) was a little bit of a pain.

- Andy
 
  #50  
Old 02-26-2015, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by andyroo
I couldn't stand driving the car with the blown upper mount. Sloppy as poop.

Adding the the powerflex lower engine mount inserts was pretty easy.

Replacing the upper mount (with the OEM unit) was a little bit of a pain.

- Andy
I think I bought the car with a blown mount and had no idea. I don't really even notice a difference in the ride with it fixed haha

Is there a writeup or tutorial on how to change them out? Or does the bentley manual have this in there?
 


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