you could always go with a foam filter, those are cheaper to replace when dirty. Cleaning a k&n really isn't bad at all, I keep a spare clean filter to hold the others place while it dries.

 

I have a filter cleaning kit from my Spectre intake I used to have on my Hyundai. I just found that some of the junk doesn't really come off after a while and the wire on the outside rusts. I just want something that I can swap right out without paying over $25 for a cone filter replacement.

It's mostly just that I'm lazy. I played the swap game with my Hyundai as well and it just stinks having to clean it, dry it, oil it, and then dry again to put it back on. I can get a new filter for as little as 8 bucks.

O'Reilly Filters

 

So I dumped my Mini off the side of the road during snow awful weather and now I have a cracked front and rear bumper.

THIS may not be as bad as it sounds though! This now gives me good reason to add Fog Lights on front and the 3rd Reverse on back (since both bumpers are coming off anyway.)

So now I have some questions...

1. I talked to ECS and I need to buy a new switch panel if I want them hooked up the "correct" way. This is an added 190 bucks-ish with labor and programming. Plus a 2 hour + drive to the nearest dealer.

2. Also the rear center light on the bumper I would like to come on with reverse lights, not a 4th brake light.

3. Can I add my own switch with custom wire to the Switch panel without messing things up?

4. If not, any known good alternative switch locations? If I cannot use the stock switch bank at all.

Thanks Ahead of Time

Happy Motoring!

 

sorry to hear about that, was that the snow from Monday? we didn't get much here in NH, only about 3 inches.


as for the switch panel, I think you can wire anything into it, and I think each switch has its own relays, so the ones with no switches have nothing behind them. as for another location, inbetween the roof opening and the where would be the blue tooth mic, I have 2 switches for my driving lights

 

Yeah, unfortunately it was 3-4 inches here and where I was driving was unplowed slushy slippery stuff :( . I didn't think of that location for switches, but thanks!

I also noticed on the driver's side of the E-Brake there is a blank panel that I might be able to throw a switch in. Or Maybe my Auxiliary input jack. I still hope to use the switch panel though. I think that would be the easiest to wire.

 

Anyone have any experience with NON- HID headlight bulbs? I'm looking for some whiter looking bulbs because one just blew, but I have had bad experiences in the past.

My Hyundai's lenses started looking foggy, at close look like a dry lake bed on the inside of the lens. So I assume it means the lenses were not made for the heat of the aftermarket bulbs. I REALLY don't want to buy new lenses.

SO anyone have melting / clouding with whiter halogen bulbs? Or any actual luck with LED replacements?

My low beam was what blew. I think high and low are two different things from what I remember.

 

Ultra Silver Stars is what im running, they are 55w. They are bright, but have a reduced service life.


theres also a good PIAA competitor, just didn't have any instock in the stores around me

 

The best H7 replacement bulb is the 65W Osram 64217 Ultra High Output
(2100 lumen, H9 burner on H7 base).
Stock H7 bulb is only 1500 lumens.

You can find them about 2/3 the way down this page:

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/p.../products.html

 

So neither of those options will melt my housings?

 

Nope. I've been using the Osrams for most of the 12 years I've had my MINI, and
have only replaced one so far, and no problems with the headlight housings or wiring.
Service life is listed as similar to oem bulbs, which is remarkable for such an efficient
high output bulb.



....oh, and like all headlight bulbs, they're extremely lightweight!

 

I'm wayyyy late to this thread / party but, if I had to recommend lightweight mods, I'd pick:

-16" Lightweight wheels. From 25 lbs to 15 lbs x 4 = 40 lbs savings
-Single side custom exhaust (or Ireland / Alta / Quicksilver /etc = 22 lbs savings
-Rear seat delete = 30 lbs savings

Just those things remove ~92 lbs from the car. That's very significant in my eyes.

 

Hey man, I appreciate the input. I don't plan on racing, but I am looking for rims. I have to buy some tires coming up here, so I figure I might as well look into it. I also would like an exhaust. Rear seats I do need so I can't take those out, but a valid point.

 

Sure thing. Racing or not, 100lbs of lost weight can be felt in these cars. Especially when you're talking un-sprung mass like wheels.

I understand about the rear seat. I'd toss on the Ireland exhaust and some light wheels then

 

going from my Slites to my ultra leggeras from season to season, its a completely different car minus the traction difference of summers to winters. the car definently feels more eager to get moving with lighter wheels. stock exhaust is very heavy =D

that was the biggest thing I noticed when I replaced it. granted I wanted more noise. but lost a decent amount of weight as well


the slites are like 10lb heavier than the ultraleggeras per wheel. 40lb of rotating mass is significant

 

40lbs is significant weight loss. If you pulled 100lbs out of your car you could then put a girlfriend in it and not notice a difference Haha! Or at least almost no difference.

 

Oh also I just went for the Silverstars. $40 for a pair isn't so bad. Those OSRAM bulbs were expensive as ever. Today I noticed that signs contrast a bit better than they used to as well as the lines on the road. Lights are a couple shades whiter than what was in it previous (Probably Stock.) They still are not what i would call White though... I feel like the only true white is either HID or LED solutions. Thanks for the advice though! If these bulbs last a long time then I will keep using them. If they blow quickly I'll probably just go back to oem.

 

So I started looking into Rims / Wheels and it doesn't really seem to be worth it. My rims are 17.9lbs OEM. Only taking 2lbs off the car (if that) by getting a $200 rim doesn't seem worth it. That's $800 just to get rid of 8lbs. So I guess I'm not going to bother. I'd rather do upgrades that help out.

At this point the only way I would buy rims is if I get winter ones. That's assuming I don't buy a winter car.

 

So for anyone following this thread I added some LED T10 Crystal White parking lights to replace blown bulbs.

I also am currently buying NGK 4 prong Platinum Plugs, NGK Wires and a MAHLE Air filter.

Maybe now would be the time to get that stealth air box mod done...

As for the cabrio braces... I haven't noticed a large improvement. I think aftermarket lower strut bars / would improve it most. As well as new bushings (which I haven't touched yet.) I had a knocking in the rear a while back, but when I switched back to summer tires I stopped hearing it for the most part.

So I'm not sure if that's bushings, struts, links, or the rear hatch latch rattling...

Took it down to New England Dragway for Import FaceOff and it ran great.

Still gotta install my new speakers and Aux input as well. Just been tough not having my own garage to work in. Driveway work sucks without power outlets etc. Plus a busy schedule this spring doesn't help.

[LINK REMOVED BY USER]

 

Looks great :






Like this shot here:

 

Hi all,

Nobody probably check this site anymore, but I figured I'd post an update.

I did the NGK wires and Plugs for a tuneup. Also threw the filter in. Went well. Didn't get to the intake as time just hasn't been on my side. Even though I said I would not get new wheels I ended up getting some anyway. I went for the 16" ASA AR1s. They were cheap and look pretty nice. They give a nice polished lip. I'm probably going to go get the windows tinted in July during some time off. During that time I also found that a rattle noise I was hearing was my exhaust hanger in the center of car. The weld can break causing the pipe to bounce off the metal pieces left behind. So that will get fixed too.

A few things I HAD to do. 1 Brake lines going to the rears. Had a line blow on me and had that replaced. Also had to do a wheel bearing. I got the bumpers repaired and rust spots taken care of (cha-ching.) Otherwise things have been okay. I also found what was throwing that EVAP code. I think I had a leak in one of my vacuum lines for vapor return to the engine. That leak ended up being a broken clip / mount for the line on the charcoal filter. I'm thinking of replacing the charcoal canister. I also will have to do the drive belt soon as well.

Otherwise things are going okay, nothing major. I'm still only at 135k-ish. I have an 07 Civic as a daily, so hopefully I won't pile the miles on my poor MINI. Time will tell!

 

Yah. I too notice posting on this site this days is like delivering Shakespearean soliloquy on stage. Have to wonder if most have worn out their toys or just suffer from forum burnt out long time ago.

 

I think you are right really. I think there just are not a lot of 1st gen Mini owners left! Many have gone for the upgrade.

Another update: I have bought the charcoal canister for the evap system. I went back to Bedford NH Mini to look at my power steering again. Turns out it wasn't power steering it was a bad steering column. I guess the knuckle corrodes / rusts and can bind or have resistance since it's a u joint basically.

I love my Mini, but I am not into this car another almost grand.

I still have to do preventative / standard service too.. So serpentine belt, supercharger oil change etc... Ugh..

 

Yes the Gen1s are all pushing allot of years now. Been getting more posts lately on how to fix issues from the 2nd/3rd/4th/5th owners.

I have no doubt that Facebook has allot to do with the amount of postings here. The average viewership on the entire forum at any give time is around 2,000 and only about 1 in 50 ever post.