Drivetrain Upgraded turbo and full turboback system, what next?
Hey guys, finished the turbo install - along with the turboback CNT system, nm torque arm mount, intercooler muffler delete, shielded turbo oil supply line and helix short throw adapter last night. all in all it took my buddy and I about 4.5 hours (including cooling car down, draining/refilling/burping coolant) with the heat shields being the majority of the labor. Those things are really REALLY secure. I have a few pictures so I will be posting them later today, when i download them from my camera. It looks great and so far it RUNS. There is a CEL from the DP, which was pretty much expected, and on the first test drive i blew off the lower intercooler to muffler delete boot since i forgot to tighten the clamp (vvvvrroooom PFFFFFFFF!) but got everything secure now and just keeping an eye on oil and coolant levels to see how much more coolant and oil this car burps through the cracked systems, especially with the new turbo plumbing. CNT catless exhaust = deep but very loud... will be adding a resonator in the middle shortly
It seems like it takes forever to cool the car down. I had to wait about 1hr 45mins to cool the car down to the point where I could finally install my diverter valve (maybe a 20min process) haha.
One of my lessons learned is to leave the car for a day if I have to install anything on or around the motor. Are you going to use the BMS can tool to clear your CEL or did you find a tuner that can take care of that for you? Those CELs can get annoying really quick! haha
When and who will be doing the tune? I'm looking forward to your full review once it's all dialed in
__________________
2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
It seems like it takes forever to cool the car down. I had to wait about 1hr 45mins to cool the car down to the point where I could finally install my diverter valve (maybe a 20min process) haha.
One of my lessons learned is to leave the car for a day if I have to install anything on or around the motor. Are you going to use the BMS can tool to clear your CEL or did you find a tuner that can take care of that for you? Those CELs can get annoying really quick! haha
One of my lessons learned is to leave the car for a day if I have to install anything on or around the motor. Are you going to use the BMS can tool to clear your CEL or did you find a tuner that can take care of that for you? Those CELs can get annoying really quick! haha
Mario Kart, thanks a bunch man, seems the car is using a little extra fuel keeping things rich to compensate right now (evident from the little puffs of fuel out the exhaust after idling at stop signs). that is sort of speeding up this tune process : / but as soon as they have another event at Helix im going to be there
Last edited by jcarl126; Sep 19, 2013 at 06:58 AM. Reason: Add Pictures
After the tune I would suggest looking into buying a new clutch/flywheel kit for two reasons:
1) When adding power some people experience clutch slipping, basically making all the performance mods somewhat useless.
2) The dualmass flywheel and clutch is subject to premature failure.
Then there is the added benefit on less rotational mass if you do a light flywheel and all that power is more available.
It's not cheap, but something to keep in the back of your head. I'm excited to see what you do and how this turns out for you!
1) When adding power some people experience clutch slipping, basically making all the performance mods somewhat useless.
2) The dualmass flywheel and clutch is subject to premature failure.
Then there is the added benefit on less rotational mass if you do a light flywheel and all that power is more available.
It's not cheap, but something to keep in the back of your head. I'm excited to see what you do and how this turns out for you!
After the tune I would suggest looking into buying a new clutch/flywheel kit for two reasons:
1) When adding power some people experience clutch slipping, basically making all the performance mods somewhat useless.
2) The dualmass flywheel and clutch is subject to premature failure.
Then there is the added benefit on less rotational mass if you do a light flywheel and all that power is more available.
It's not cheap, but something to keep in the back of your head. I'm excited to see what you do and how this turns out for you!
1) When adding power some people experience clutch slipping, basically making all the performance mods somewhat useless.
2) The dualmass flywheel and clutch is subject to premature failure.
Then there is the added benefit on less rotational mass if you do a light flywheel and all that power is more available.
It's not cheap, but something to keep in the back of your head. I'm excited to see what you do and how this turns out for you!
) so if the clutch goes theres a possible chance it gets replaced. but who knows with that. I have a list of stuff next in my head, but im going to keep plucking away at it and find a good tune first. would love to lower it like your sig, buttttt PA roads are horrific and cant go that low or ill be bumperless
I've heard that the JM Turbo Coopers' clutch/flywheel kits are good, but OS Giken is the only one that is really time-tested and proven. I am going to go with a JM Cooper clutch/flywheel kit myself and throw in a Quiaffe (sp?) LSD as well. That all will cost a pretty penny so it won't happen for months. But...if I get everything done on the clutch kit and LSD I will let you know what I think of the JM Cooper clutch kits.
I have heard the PA roads are aweful! But then again, I live in CO and would suspect we aren't too far behind. I do have to do some dodging sometimes and negotiate some driveways. Most people hate this. I don't mind one bit. My car is bonkers and going to get even more so. I love it!
"I swear officer, I'm not drunk. I just don't want to hit these potholes!" haha
I have heard the PA roads are aweful! But then again, I live in CO and would suspect we aren't too far behind. I do have to do some dodging sometimes and negotiate some driveways. Most people hate this. I don't mind one bit. My car is bonkers and going to get even more so. I love it!
"I swear officer, I'm not drunk. I just don't want to hit these potholes!" haha
Jcarl, I am looking forward to reading more about your experiences with the 42mm JMTC + meth setup. I am doing the same thing, minus the decatted DP (unless I can find a tune that will totally suppress CELs) but the big difference is that I'm using a JCW motor with lower static compression.
Hope the car drives great!
Hope the car drives great!
I've heard that the JM Turbo Coopers' clutch/flywheel kits are good, but OS Giken is the only one that is really time-tested and proven. I am going to go with a JM Cooper clutch/flywheel kit myself and throw in a Quiaffe (sp?) LSD as well. That all will cost a pretty penny so it won't happen for months. But...if I get everything done on the clutch kit and LSD I will let you know what I think of the JM Cooper clutch kits.
I have heard the PA roads are aweful! But then again, I live in CO and would suspect we aren't too far behind. I do have to do some dodging sometimes and negotiate some driveways. Most people hate this. I don't mind one bit. My car is bonkers and going to get even more so. I love it!
"I swear officer, I'm not drunk. I just don't want to hit these potholes!" haha
I have heard the PA roads are aweful! But then again, I live in CO and would suspect we aren't too far behind. I do have to do some dodging sometimes and negotiate some driveways. Most people hate this. I don't mind one bit. My car is bonkers and going to get even more so. I love it!
"I swear officer, I'm not drunk. I just don't want to hit these potholes!" haha


thanks dodgy, the turbo spools very quickly and you can absolutely feel the powerband difference as it pulls straight to 6000 then i shift but its still going hard then. cant wait to see what it feels like properly tuned (fingers crossed there). i use a 90 degree substrate filled spark plug fouler adapter (from griffin motorworks, like $40) on my lower o2 bung and i think its not sensing ENOUGH since this car is running prettttty dang rich, leaving little black puffs at stoplights and fuel economy down to 29mpg from 31/32. i guess thats a little better than running too lean, just hopefully not too rich to cause cylinder wash.
Hey guys, just ordered my 42mm jmturbocooper turbo along with a catless resonated 2.5" dp and downpipe back system from CNT, and an intake system.
looking to continue upgrading, but need help with what next.
obviously a tune will be the biggest help, but NM seems like crap, RMW seems iffy, evolve is out of the game and PAW is too far from me. (live in philly, PA area). any suggestions? loving the prospect from Manic Tuning in UK.
Second, besides a tune, water/meth or a new fmic? which will be more beneficial and why? (water meth from howerton, fmic from helix)
car is for street driving and is rarely beat on. has 109,000k on it. not looking to track/autoX or to drag, just to have some fun opening it up once in a while.
already got a rear swaybar coming and a torque arm bushing, too. for now see how that helps with suspension mostly looking towards power wise would love to see about 225whp but know thats going to be a bit tricky even including the larger turbo
looking to continue upgrading, but need help with what next.
obviously a tune will be the biggest help, but NM seems like crap, RMW seems iffy, evolve is out of the game and PAW is too far from me. (live in philly, PA area). any suggestions? loving the prospect from Manic Tuning in UK.
Second, besides a tune, water/meth or a new fmic? which will be more beneficial and why? (water meth from howerton, fmic from helix)
car is for street driving and is rarely beat on. has 109,000k on it. not looking to track/autoX or to drag, just to have some fun opening it up once in a while.
already got a rear swaybar coming and a torque arm bushing, too. for now see how that helps with suspension mostly looking towards power wise would love to see about 225whp but know thats going to be a bit tricky even including the larger turbo
Stage 2 Manic Map. Also dyno'd on a Mustang dyno with 100 degree outside temps. Even better now that you have a bigger turbo. I would do the intercooler if I were you. Manic tune requires downpipe and intercooler to go Stage 2. I would do intercooler then meth in the future. But that is just me.
You could try E-Tuners Stelios really knows our cars, Turbos, and direct injection, and they do have people here in the states. Been working on a Frankenturbo with them. I did run the stock ECU on standard intercooler, no meth, should add that though. I started a new carbon fiber intake manifold, that will take a bit to finish (lots of plumbing), but went to the track anyway and it was fun. The larger turbo's change the power curve nicely, I have the JMturbo Aluminum lightened flywheel and kevlar segmented clutch 30% plate it should be good to 350 ft-lbs torque, and pedal pressure is fine you could go for more I think but then shafts and trans will be the limit an lsd helps a bit. It is the torque that is at the heart of these things. Without the dual mass You will get gear chatter and realize how different the direct injection is, think Diesel. I moved to Motul 75-90 that came with a wave track lsd you should try the track its a lot of fun in a Mini. The stock dual mass has plastic throw out arms that will be trying to take the extra torque so go easy on them if they slip it will throw the thing off balance.
If you can do the turbo in half a day then learn to take the front off you could then go for an engine trans pull it comes out with almost everything on, then the clutch work and maybe some head porting I think these engines respond to some bowl and transition work, they are about velocity flow but have a flat spot that needs some integration. connecting rods might be a good idea again the torque. Oh apr head studs will help hold the head down better and are reusable. I will never be done with mine already thinking of my second build.
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