I haven't had any trouble with mine in the ~1000miles I have had it on... I do check it frequently though to make sure that it is well seated...

 

After doing the HAI, would there be any advantage to moving the battery, or smaller version of it, to the former airbox location? That would free up at least a square ft of storage space.

 

moving more weight to the front isn't all that great of an idea, but being able to cut out the battery box and put a straight through exhaust is worth it for some people.. or you could use the battery box to house an amp or a sub.

 

Those were some of my thoughts, kibosh.... I also wondered if the slight change in front/rear weight distro would help or hurt handling. I recall seeing a picture where either Peter or Randy of M7 cut off the battery box and installed a small drycell battery... he left the battery in the rear though.

 

I gotta say you were right on the one ball. I had mine done at

Meineke Car Care Ctr
Address: 3041 Middlefield Rd, Redwood City, CA 94063
Phone:(650) 365-0261

Ask for Lupe. He and his guys did a great job while I waited, fo $90 OTD. I've had work done there on my Mustang, he and I are both members of the Nor-Cal Shelby Club.

Anyway, if you do go for the one-ball, you won't be thinking about any intake noise! And if the is a quite exhaust mod, I'm glad I didn't pay for anything noisier! But the combo of the HAI, the one-ball and and MTH software has really revolutionized the car! I'm finding I'm driving at much lower rpms in all gears. And there's even usefull pull as low as 1500 rpm. So for the $50 for the HAI (I'd forgotten to get a breather filter the first time), $90 for the one-ball, and about $150 for the MTH, I'm in under $300 and the car screams. And I haven't even updated the engine map for the exhaust or intake mods. I'm sold.

Add a pully, and you're doing about what a JCW kit does, for right around $500!

And no, my HAI hasn't popped off. It seems that there's a bit of a lip on the TB, and the inside of the filter is a bit ribbed, so if they engage well, you should be fine. Make sure that the hose clamp isn't clamping above the TB flange, as it will squeeze the filter off. It's kind of tight down there, so it's hard to see the whole hose clamp. Also, after you put it back on, give it a good tug to see if it's on good.

Matt

 

I'm curious how you discovered this. Was there something (like a change in the sound or something rattling) that made you check it? Or were you just double-checking and discovered it had come loose?

 

actually the intake sound I was used to hearing after a while sort of change or was not present as much - I got a little suspicious and check the filter to find that it was half way off and sucking in some air direct. I did manage to reclamp it back down - but like you said the lip does cause it to pop off. I remember a friend suggesting using a zip tie in place of a clamp - might try that if it doesn't hold.

As for the power difference - I'm running the MTH - 15% pulley - One-Ball & HAI - Man for the $500 in parts it sure is a world of difference. Just need a set of new tires and better brakes to keep things in check.

 

I noticed a change in sound, and mine was off the TB a bit. I reseated everything and re-tightened the clamp. It would be nice if the lip were 1/4" longer...... Oh well. Others have better luck, so it must be me!

Matt

 

This thread is really really long so I dont know if this is allready been posted and tried but, Has anyone tried this on a cooper? I did it to my dads car two days ago and wow! It definetly gives it boost in power, but more than that the sound IS AMAZING! It is what I wish my Cooper S would sound like! If I knew how to post video or sound clips I would but it seems complicated. We are now a very happy HAI family of MINIs.

FYI, If you try this, all you need to do is take out the air box. leave the rubber hose attached to the TB since you will need to connect this to the filter(I used the RU1550 from K&N) instead of the filter directly to the TB(The Cooper hood and placment of the TB wont allow it). But this also means you dont have to deal with the oil filter part. I HIGHLY SUGGEST DOING THIS! MORE SO THAN THE COOPER S!!!

 

ajusa has free shipping on K&N products right now. The RU-1520 is $35.24 shipped.

http://www.ajusa.com/cgi-bin/knfilte...6c9da1fad08f58

promo code "gift4u" gives $5 off if you spend $50. The filter and 2 filter cleaning kits will get you to $50

http://www.ajusa.com/cgi-bin/knfilte...6c9da1fad08f58

Or get the 12oz can of oil and the 32oz bottle of cleaner to get to just over $50. I got these and the filter for $46.07 shipped.

http://www.ajusa.com/cgi-bin/load?t=...6c9da1fad08f58

 

Hi all,
I got the K&N breather filter and actually remebered to take my camera to the garage to take some photos. I also figured out how to keep the filter from coming off and took photos of that as well.

K&N Breather
I got this from AJUSA.COM. It's the K&N Breather with a chrome top. 3/4" flange ID (to go over the vent hose). I took the vent line, and routed it slightly differently. I also got the hose retainer (two c-clips attached together) off it's stock location and moved it so that it will hold the hose afer the breather is installed. See the first picture. (Note this makes you OK for track work, but not OK with regard to smog laws).

Clamping the main filter.
I've had my filter come off, as have others. I think this is just a break-in issue. When I took my filter off today to get room to work, I saw that the lip on the throttle body had made a dent in the filter flange. See the second picture. Make sure that you place the hose clamp over this groove. If the clamp is above, it will pull the filter off, if below, it will slide off the flange. I also found the best place (for me) to have the screw for the hose clamp. It's not quite a straight shot, but close. Note, use an alcohol wipe or the like to clean the TB and filter flanges. Oil will let it slide off until the grove is formed.

 

Here's a look at the hood liner. After seeing the groove in the filter flange, I think I'll look at a slightly shorter filter. I'm not too comfortable with the force needed to close the hood. But I haven't trimmed the liner either. And here's a shot of the completed intallation.

 

Try loosening the clamp, rotate the filter counterclockwise, then tighten the clamp again:

 

 

I'm ready to do this and this thread has gotten very long.

Can someone post briefly the part(s) I need and exactly what I need to do?

 

Basically, all you need is the K&N 1550 filter. This is an oval filter, with a 10 degree flange on it. There will be a vent hose that you have to do something with. your options are

1) Do nothing, just have it lie agains the filter to suck in any vent gasses that come out of the crankcase. Not good for track or smog compliance.

2) Put a vent filter on it. This is OK for track, but not OK for smog.

3) Get a 3/8" ID right angle dodad. Then you can put a hole in the base of the filter (NOT THE FLANGE) and plug the vent hose right into that. This is both track and smog complient BUT doesn't filter the charge at all before it goes into the TB.

What you do. Remove all the old stuff. See the how To on the Alta CAI intall here:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=15124

(Thanks Randy).

FYI, I left the stock air cleaner base installed. I live in CA and want to be able to go back to stock look for smog inspection.

Then clean off the flange with some alcohol or something (and the TB as well). Put the filter on, clamp the heck out of it, close the hood and drive away!

It took me about 10 min without doing the vent line. I'm happy as can be!

Matt


PS, I don't mean to imply that this will pass visual inspection in states like CA. I don't really know. There were some posts from a CA smog tech that said that things like this aren't part of the visual inspection, but this point of view was recieved with much scepticism. Make sure that you know the requirements of your state, and if you have room, keep the stock parts to go back to if you have to. -M-

 

What's the part # for a vent filter?

 

At www.ajusa.com, it's 62-1360
http://www.ajusa.com/cgi-bin/knfilte...53c549126eb8d0

Matt

 

What is the consensus? (Is there agreement?) RU-1520 is 9/16 flange length and no angle, RU-1550 is 1 inch flange length, 10 degree angle. Which one fits easier? Better (no rubbing)? I assume the longer and angled one. I suppose if you like chrome instead of black rubber, you can get the RC-15x0 model, too. I also assume (how's that saying go?) that anything with a 2.75 inlet that fits in the spot will do. And that the straight oval is picked because it offers the most filter area for the space versus, say, a conical or round one.
Do these thoughts and assumptions make sense?
Thanks,
John L
Enjoy yours!

 

Yep, that's the flow that the thread discovered.

 

i think the 1550 is a better design for the application


my filter did come of as well

then i discoved the glorious zip-tie mod.

its all temporary anyway while waiting for the M7 air gain system.

which i now know the secret to ha ha

 

The oval filter was selected because its the only one that fits in the limited space. It had to be as narrow as possible in order to fit between the IC snoot and the ECU. A cone filter is usually better but theres just no room. I selected the oval filter with the thought of tapping the rubber base of it for the the breather hose. Andy tapped the top instead. A round filter may be cheaper and flow just as well but I never tested it so you're on your own on that one. Enjoy.


--
Cheese

 

The HAI system is in the review area. Go post a review!

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...&cat=22&page=1

 

Dayum! And i just ordered the 1520 a week ago and it shipped today! Arrrgh! Didn't know there was a 1550, guess i didn't check the thread enough.

 

Don't sweat it. I've been running the 1520 for 7 months. It fits great, has never popped off, and doesn't cause problems with the hood closing, etc.