should i go for the H-sport style with polyurethane bushings, or the Heim joint style like RDR/Alta? what are the pros/cons of each?

 

should i go for the H-sport style with polyurethane bushings, or the Heim joint style like RDR/Alta? what are the pros/cons of each?


Couldn't really tell you the difference. I have H Sport rear camber control arms. I like them and so does my alignement shop! The camber on the rear wheels was waaaay off after I put my springs on. Dialing in the correct camber -w- the control arms was a piece of cake. (I'll admit that I am biased in favor or H Sport products ... good design and engineering from a firm that does nothing but suspension upgrades ... owned by guys with major race experience!)


ftbt

2002 Works Cooper S, Sn. 1165, DS/W; Sport + Premium + Alta CAI + Unichip + H Sport Springs, Competition Front & Rear Sway Bars, Rear Camber Control Arms + 17" Team Dynamics Pro Race 1's; 215-45-17 Kumho MX's + AP Racing Formula Big Brakes, X Drilled + Slotted Rotors, Goodridge SS Lines + Clear Bra + Cobra Daytona Seats + Schroth Harness and a full tank of 100 octane ... life is good!

2002 CVT Cooper LY/W + Sport + 17" S Lites & Pirelii Euforias + Clear Bra

 

heim joints transmit more road noise into the cabin, the poly-U parts are quieter. That's the only real difference I see between the two, it just depends on how accurate you need the geometry to be and if you're willing to compromise in this dept. for a little more drivability.

 

>>should i go for the H-sport style with polyurethane bushings, or the Heim joint style like RDR/Alta? what are the pros/cons of each?

I have the H-sport adjustable lower control arms.

http://www.h-sport.com/cgi-bin/EDCst...atalogno=13800
Priced at about $242 per pair or $460 for four
http://www.webbmotorsports.com/suspension.php

Pros for H-sports
Nice looking and stronger than cheap stock part. Comes in Red or Blue finish from Promini for $239.95
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co.../htm.sized.jpg
Easy to adjust for rear camber from 0 to negative 4 degrees.
Durable and quiet.
Doesn't need all four control arms to be replaced. One pair controls Caster/toe (upper arms), the other pair controls Camber (lower arms). Usually all four or just the lower two are replaced.

Cons
Design is not as light.
Weight is similar to stock.

http://outmotoring.com/alta_adjustab...trol_arms.html

Alta adjustable control arms for $299 a pair.


Control arm kit includes:
(2) Hardened precision steel arms powder coated the signature ALTA MINI light blue/charcoal finish.
(4) Heim joints
(8) Spacers
"Teflon lined, heim joint rod ends. The Teflon lining prevents road vibration from being transferred through the joint as well as constantly cleaning the bearing surface. Alta's joints are significantly larger and have finer threads than competitive control arms. Finer threads not only increase the strength of the connection but allow more precise adjustments to camber settings."
http://www.altaminiperformance.com/p...ntrolarms.html

Finally the lightest option is from Helix13.com $355 for set of four.

"The RDR Adjustable Rear Control Arms are suitable for both Mini and Mini "S" models. These bars were designed to accomplish three goals: Save weight over the stock bars, provide far less "give" owing to solid heim-joint construction, and allow for adjusting both toe and camber on the rear wheels.
The arms are shipped pre-adjusted to stock geometry settings and assembled with anti-sieze. We encourage you to have your rear alignment set for 1/16" toe out and 1 to 11/2 degrees negative camber if aggressive cornering performance is desired. The RDR arms are constructed of 6061 heat-treated aluminum for incredible strength and use premium Teflon-lined heim joints for long-lasting durability. With no rubber bushings, there is no mushy "give" under hard cornering. Unsprung weight is 50% lighter than stock! "




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heim jointed models require that you loosen locknuts at each end to adjust. Speaking from direct experience, you don't want to have to get at the inner, upper locknuts. The Hsport has the definite advantage of a single location, easy to access set of locknuts.

last time I looked, If SCCA is your thing, substituting a rubber bush with a heim joint will bugger your class rating

Teflon linined ball joints, without a rubber boot, are of limited life, although others have disputed this.

if you only have one adjustable arm per wheel, you can only change camber. If each wheel has two, you can adjust camber and toe. I don't believe there is a way to set rear caster. Toe can also be set to a limted degree using the slotted control arm to chassis bolt plates, but it isn't the sort of thing you do trackside.

 

If you care about autocrossing in one of the Street Touring classes and being legal, you only have two choices that I know of, the K-MAC camber/toe bushings that go in the stock arms or the H-Sport arms. I started with the RDR arms which by my reading of the rules was legal but found out later through SCCA officials that the Heim joints make them illegal. Then I got the K-MAC's which are harder to adjust and install and lack other qualities as well. Then, last the H-sports, which are the best of the bunch a pleasure to look at and work with.

 

>>if you only have one adjustable arm per wheel, you can only change camber. If each wheel has two, you can adjust camber and toe. I don't believe there is a way to set rear caster.

The upper control arm pair are supposed to allow for setting of caster and toe in the rear to some extent.
(that's what the alta advertisements read)
The lower rear control arm pair are for adjusting rear camber.

You can change all four control arms for maximum flexibility for use on the track or autocross.
Most of us choose to change only the lower control arm pair.
Use the same brand of control arms if you replace all four.

 

>>heim jointed models require that you loosen locknuts at each end to adjust. Speaking from direct experience, you don't want to have to get at the inner, upper locknuts. The Hsport has the definite advantage of a single location, easy to access set of locknuts.

I'll second that. The inner side would be a pita to get at.

 

i think alta's remark about caster change is bogus Generally, caster only applies to a steerable wheel anyway, as it is the inclination of the steering axis to vertical, or sometimes better understood as the distance between the tire contact patch and the projection to the ground of the steering axis. With rear suspensions like the mini trailing arm, "caster" is fixed by the trailing arm geometry.
If you shorten all four arms, you will increase toe out without changing camber. if you shorten just the tops, or lengthen just the bottoms, you will set more negative camber

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