Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R56) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Intake Muffler Delete?

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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 07:49 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by InjectedGT
Understandable, but did you not click the link the OP put up showing the part he wants to buy along with the part it replaces?
Point taken.

My Apologies. I didn't see it was a link until I looked at this on a real computer versus my phone.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 07:51 PM
  #27  
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I thought.. that tube.. was designed to replace this part - https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-silencer.html
 
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 07:59 PM
  #28  
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Man I'm glad we're on the same page now. I was starting to question my sanity.

Anyway, the primary reason I suggested that piece is because it's only $40 vice $99 for the link in the OP.

Edit: pic because why not

 
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 08:18 PM
  #29  
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Have you installed that boost tube back onto the car now? I believe it was previously mentioned that the new part is about an inch longer than the muffler, so I'm curious to know if it's putting any extra stress or kinking in the bend points of the factory tubes. Seems like a more affordable solution from the plastic $99 piece, and if it does anything at all to help cooling, more power to it. But like you said, price alone is a motivator.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 08:59 PM
  #30  
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I've been running it since May with no issues. I didn't measure the two parts but I think an inch difference is an over estimate. I'd say half inch maybe. Not enough that I had any trouble reinstalling it or any concerns.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 09:14 PM
  #31  
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I went and measured real quick--the aluminum piece is only 1/8th inch longer, so no worries. Stock part 5.5", aluminum 5.625".
 
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Old Aug 7, 2013 | 11:25 AM
  #32  
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Awesome news. Gives people a cheaper alternative to the one originally posted. $99 for a 5.5", 2" diameter plastice tube.... I don't fully get how some aftermarket parts manufacturers sell anything. Like the $300 for a 90 degree silicone elbow and an air filter.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2013 | 03:22 PM
  #33  
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Im confused...you say that pre-intercooler is 5.6 inches long but on the website they say its 9 inches long...so am i being stupid or are you guys seeing a smaller length tube than what i can find on the website?

Heres a link to the product being discussed..says on bottom its 9 inches
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/produ...e64ac1a56f7d95
 
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Old Aug 11, 2013 | 05:42 PM
  #34  
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9" including the ends that go into the tubing, 6" just the center section
 
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Old Aug 11, 2013 | 06:24 PM
  #35  
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Ahh ok thank you, im thinking this will be my first mod for my car also i was wondering does this pre intercooler pipe cause any abnormal bending in the hoses it connects to? And also would using the hose clamps that were originally used for the muffler pipe be fine for this pre intercooler pipe?
 
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Old Aug 11, 2013 | 07:32 PM
  #36  
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You'll need to buy a couple hose clamps. The ones from the factory require a special tool to put in place so you can't reuse them.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2013 | 10:05 PM
  #37  
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Well looking at the hose clamps that are in view in the top of the engine, arent those the same ones used on the muffler? If so all i would need for those is a flat head screwdriver
 
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 06:29 AM
  #38  
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The ones are the top and bottom are reusable, but the ones on the muffler itself are a weird design. They are completely flat all the way around and lock together in a T shape. I was trying to find a picture, but I didn't have any luck.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 09:24 AM
  #39  
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So should i buy 2 more hose clamps and use those on it or buy new t bolt clamps?
 
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 09:56 AM
  #40  
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2 run of the mill hose clamps. The other ones would require a special tool, I assume.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 10:04 AM
  #41  
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Ahh ok sounds good, and not having it bolted to the frame, like the muffler pipe was, is not a problem right? Im just wondering because of the weight of it (since i think it weighs more than the muffler pipe piece) with hose clamps being the only thing securing it will it move or sway around? Sorry for all the questions, i just dont want to encounter problems during the install (the dreaded "oh [censored]" moment so to speak).
 
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 10:57 AM
  #42  
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With the tolerances in tubing length etc and how tight everything will be in place once reinstalled, I don't see a concern. And I also highly doubt that thin aluminum pipe with aluminum fins is going to weigh more than the complex, thick plastic factory piece. I'd even venture to say it's probably half the weight of the stock muffler piece at most.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 11:49 AM
  #43  
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Ahh ok thats a relief. Hmm now i have to figure out whether to buy and then install it without lifting the car or buy ramps for my car...hmm
 
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 03:44 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by InjectedGT
With the tolerances in tubing length etc and how tight everything will be in place once reinstalled, I don't see a concern. And I also highly doubt that thin aluminum pipe with aluminum fins is going to weigh more than the complex, thick plastic factory piece. I'd even venture to say it's probably half the weight of the stock muffler piece at most.
I did this exact mod, with no issues on my '09 MCS. The weight difference is +2 ounces for the aluminum part. Yes the plastic muffler is lighter. I did the the noisemaker delete as well, and so I am now -2 ounces overall on the two mods. Whooo hoooo. I just like taking non functional junk off my cars.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 06:11 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by 09MCSGB

I did this exact mod, with no issues on my '09 MCS. The weight difference is +2 ounces for the aluminum part. Yes the plastic muffler is lighter. I did the the noisemaker delete as well, and so I am now -2 ounces overall on the two mods. Whooo hoooo. I just like taking non functional junk off my cars.
I hope you are just being facetious on being 2 ounces lighter.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2013 | 02:48 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by HorizonBLueN18
I hope you are just being facetious on being 2 ounces lighter.
Dude - totally serious. I got the stubby antenna to save 1/2 ounce, and I never fill up the gas tank more than 1/2 way - that's like 50 pounds....
 
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Old Aug 24, 2013 | 04:35 PM
  #47  
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Just installed the pre intercooler pipe on my 2010 Clubman S, was fine although my lack of mechanical experience lead to it taking 2 hours however it was relatively easy. I will say however that when you are under the car and you try to take the whole pipe (muffler pipe thingy included) there's a small horizontal rubber pipe in the way and you will have to use one of your arms to push and pull it to create room to pull the vertical piece (that your removing) out and through underneath the car. After replacing the muffler piece with the pre intercooler pipe my next door neighbor (who's a mechanic and handyman) commented on how well built it looked. Overall good experience, i haven't driven with it on yet so we will see but i'm expecting better breathability with it on. Quick note i would make is that make sure when you re-tighten the hose clamps on the metal pre intercooler pipe that you make sure you tighten them over the flanges and be careful as the flanges are in a slight different position than the flanges on the plastic muffler piece (the metal pre intercooler pipe is slightly longer).
 
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Old Aug 31, 2013 | 03:51 PM
  #48  
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I did this mod today using the pre-cooling pipe. Thanks for the tips everyone! As others have mentioned, it is slightly longer than the muffler. I trimmed the hose on the bottom with a box cutter.

Also, I couldn't find it online, but the torx screw holding the muffler to the car is a size 25, the same as on the air filter box. An extender did help quite a bit! A screwdriver type torx would have also worked well.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2013 | 12:10 PM
  #49  
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After driving with it on for about 600 miles here's my review. I have noticed very very little difference between having this upgrade and not having it. This upgrade supposedly reduces temperatures of the air coming out of the turbo but i promise you there is no sound benefit. In my opinion it doesn't make your car rumble more at all. I have noticed after installing this that when i click the sport button to go from sport to regular (at a red light) then accelerate in non sport mode there is a longer amount of turbo lag then before when i had this upgrade. Now this could either be because of the upgrade (not sure how) or maybe i just never paid attention to it . Also, I would like to point out the obvious that compared to the 200 and 300 dollar discharge pipes this is a fantastic alternative and won't break the bank after you've been bitten by the modification bug.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2013 | 10:02 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by danjreed
Except... Heat sinks are not check valves... They will flow heat both ways.

Tell me, if the air inside the tube is already cooler than the heat load under the hood.. Which way will the heat flow..?

From that "cooler" into the tube..

Again, go measure intake air temperature... Then measure the heat under the hood with a hot engine..
Not to beat this to death, but I'm considering the options for replacing this intercooler intake pipe myself and was pondering the heat transfer. This discussion is debating the radiation and convection heat transfer mechanisms. I believe the overriding mechanism is, rather, CONDUCTION. An aluminum pipe, finned or not, connecting a scortching hot turbo housing with a cooler intercooler will certainly transfer heat from the turbo to the intercooler, thereby increasing its heat load and reducing its efficiency. Now, if one or both ends were collared / gasketed with some non-conductive material, they may be onto something, however, all forms of heat transfer consider, I'm going with silocone.
 
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