Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R56) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Catted vs. Catless Downpipe

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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 09:32 AM
  #26  
HorizonBLueN18's Avatar
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Originally Posted by countryboyshane
+1

I'm tellin' ya, if you have an N18 MINI focus on something else besides powertrain for now
I got the downpipe in preparation for the JB+. then after that i'm going to save up and get a quality set of coilovers to replace my vmaxx next summer. mods will be extremely limited as my wife is due in october. So 1200 dollars next summer and maybe getting my NUE's powdercoated a different color is all that will be on my plate besides preventative maintenance.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 09:36 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by HorizonBLueN18

I got the downpipe in preparation for the JB+. then after that i'm going to save up and get a quality set of coilovers to replace my vmaxx next summer.
Not to get off topic but definitely STs or KWs!
 
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 09:50 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by RobMuntean
Not to get off topic but definitely STs or KWs!
ST are number one on my list lol. But back on topic!!! I can't wait for the JB+ I think it's a fantastic safe option that shouldn't affect drivability too much. I know when i had stage 2 unitronic on my 1.8t it was a pretty aggressive tune and the boost wasn't very linear when it kicked in. It was a smack in the face break the tires lose and then all boost dies by 5500. i want a more linear power band, or as linear as possible with that tiny turbo.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 09:58 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by HorizonBLueN18

ST are number one on my list lol. But back on topic!!! I can't wait for the JB+ I think it's a fantastic safe option that shouldn't affect drivability too much. I know when i had stage 2 unitronic on my 1.8t it was a pretty aggressive tune and the boost wasn't very linear when it kicked in. It was a smack in the face break the tires lose and then all boost dies by 5500. i want a more linear power band, or as linear as possible with that tiny turbo.
Believe me I know, I'm loving it. I wanted this for so long. Still debating if I should go with a DP. But with the possibility of moving to Cali, I don't know if I want to deal with emissions and CELs. But the evolve catless has been in the back of my mind. Sounds great mated with the JCW exhaust.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 07:27 PM
  #30  
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Has anybody thought of getting a catless DP and keeping the 2nd cat for emissions? Eh?
Dont know if its been done ot not, but also dont know if the second cat would have to upgraded either, since its seems pretty tiny
 
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 07:53 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Ashtonairwaves
Has anybody thought of getting a catless DP and keeping the 2nd cat for emissions? Eh?
Dont know if its been done ot not, but also dont know if the second cat would have to upgraded either, since its seems pretty tiny
I just ordered a catless DP from Way today. I have already removed the resonator and 2nd cat. I'm not worried about actual emissions here in NC because they don't do sniff tests only OBD2 scans. I am going to try and use spacers and whatnot for the lower O2 sensor to see if I can get it NOT to throw a CEL but I don't have high hopes.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 08:11 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by cerenkov
I believe that I have narrowed down my choices to: 1.) WMW Catless downpipe - $429.00 or 2.) Akrapovic catted downpipe - $725.00 They both will cause a CEL so why not go with the catless? They don't do an emissions sniffer test here in NC so it should pass emission with a tune. Performance wise you'd think that the catless dp would be better. I know there is a lot about downpipes on this board and I've read a bunch of it, any opinions out there?
So how do they do the emissions testing here? Is it only if they see a check engine light, or something shows up from a scan?

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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 08:26 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by ChiliRedR56raleigh
So how do they do the emissions testing here? Is it only if they see a check engine light, or something shows up from a scan?

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They just plug into the OBD2 port and look for codes, active, pending and not ready codes.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 09:31 PM
  #34  
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From: Tacoma, WA
Originally Posted by cerenkov
I just ordered a catless DP from Way today. I have already removed the resonator and 2nd cat. I'm not worried about actual emissions here in NC because they don't do sniff tests only OBD2 scans. I am going to try and use spacers and whatnot for the lower O2 sensor to see if I can get it NOT to throw a CEL but I don't have high hopes.
I live in WA (just moved here)and as far as I understand... it seems like there are emissions up here, I just dont know the specifics and I'd like to play it safe with one cat. haha I think two is too many.
I'm jealous that you dont have emissions!
I guess downpipe upgrades are a big influence on turbo cars and catless just seems way more $$ effective.
I bet your car is gonna sound gnar buckets! I'm interested too see how those O2 spacers work for ya too, it would help me in my decision making.
(Seeing how if I get a DP, I probs wont have the cha-ching for a tune) haha!
 
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 06:49 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by cerenkov
They just plug into the OBD2 port and look for codes, active, pending and not ready codes.
Okay, good to know

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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 08:37 AM
  #36  
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From: Pacific NW
Here is a list of counties in which you must get an emission test, every two years, in Washington State.

http://www.dol.wa.gov/vehicleregistr...emissions.html

Dave
 
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 09:35 AM
  #37  
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I have my Evolve catless dp in hand, just gotta find time to install or get it installed. Anyone have a good set of instructions for install in a 2013 clubman?

If not then I'll just hope Cerenkov gives a basic how to
 
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 10:39 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by ClubmanRob
I have my Evolve catless dp in hand, just gotta find time to install or get it installed. Anyone have a good set of instructions for install in a 2013 clubman? If not then I'll just hope Cerenkov gives a basic how to
There is a how to by Alta, it's for a 2007 N14 but it should be pretty much the same. The tedious part is getting at the heat shield bolts. And being careful with the studs into the turbo housing.

I will take notes and pictures.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 01:54 PM
  #39  
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Notes and pics will help! Thanks!
 
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Old Dec 19, 2013 | 07:39 PM
  #40  
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Here are our De-Cat and Hi-flow Downpipes for the Mini Cooper. We sell many of the De-cat, the Catted version in the US not so much ha
Name:  IMG_5999_zps382c8846.jpg
Views: 3880
Size:  52.7 KB

We have done ALOT of R&D on the Mini cooper, our tuners have lots of data on what works and what does not. That is why we are able to do the many things we can. If you guys are interested in more information please let me know. I will be posting more on our R&D on the mini cooper soon!
 
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 03:50 PM
  #41  
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I just received the catless DP from Way Motor Works. I have to say it's a work of art and there's no way I'm going to be able to wait until X-mas to install it. An empty box is going under the tree.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 12:32 PM
  #42  
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I couldn't wait to install the Way Motor Works catless downpipe so I went ahead and installed it today. Fairly straight forward but tight access. Took me 5 hours.

BTW - My car is a 2013 R56.

The upper heat shield is held on by 6 10mm bolts.

The lower heat is held on by 4 10mm bolts.

Use a 1/4" drive socket with standard, deep and extensions. A 10mm open/box wrench was used also. A ratchet wrench would have been nice to use on two of them.

You don't have to bend any part of the upper heat shield to remove it or when putting it back in. The lower heat shield stays in, just remove all the bolts so you can move it around.

The downpipe lower bracket is 2 13mm nuts.

The nut for the band clamp on the exhaust connection is 16mm (a deep socket helps - which I didn't have). I reused the old one and I figured if it leaks I'll swing by my muffler guy and get him to replace it for $20.

The downpipe/turbo connection is 3 13mm nuts/studs. (I torqued to 30 ft-lbs from the Detroit Tuned website). BE CAREFUL WITH THESE. YOU CAN SHEAR THEM OFF OR STRIP OUT THE TURBO THREADS IN A HEARTBEAT.

The o2 sensors are standard size, use an offset version. Use anti-seize. I disconnected the upper o2 sensor before I removed/re-installed it but I left the lower one connected when I removed/re-installed it in the downpipe.

I got really nervous with the three bolts/studs for the downpipe/turbo connection. One stud came out with the nut, one nut came off the stud but the third stud came out part way then the nut came off. The stud wouldn't budge either in or out and I was afraid that it would break off. That would've sucked. The car only has 6000 miles, I'd be really nervous on a car with more miles and rust. Use PB Blaster or something similar.

Because two studs were still in I had to bend the lower mounting brackets to get the downpipe on, but the bracket straightened back out when I tightened it up. The overall fitment is excellent.

First impressions... it's pretty loud (I have previously removed the 2nd cat and resonator). I'll take it for a test drive when my wife get home from work in a little while.

Got a good look at what I'll need to do to swap out the exhaust manifold. That's not going to be fun. But I'll wait to do it in the spring.

The intercooler and downpipe are now installed for a stage 2 type tune. I've been really looking into the Renntech and NM tunes.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 03:18 PM
  #43  
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I used one of these on my xb when I deleted the cats with my header install. Would this work on this application?
 
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 03:43 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by elsenordave
I used one of these on my xb when I deleted the cats with my header install. Would this work on this application?
Vibrant makes one also, people have varying luck with them, I was going to try it but I'm not holding my breath. The lower o2 sensor is really easy to get to on these cars so why not.
 
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