Have 15% pulley, Cold air intake, Alta exhaust. What mod would help me with my low end torque. Was looking at 19% pulley but didn't like Randy's comments. Help anyone ?

 

I believe the pulley will have the most significant impact in your torque/HP numbers. The air intake helps too.

 

You can consider a smaller rolling diameter tire. I went from the stock fitment (16s) at 24.4" to 23.3". And along those lines, lighter wheels/tires will make the car quicker... Also, consider an aftermkt map...

 

Largest torque increases (in this order): Pullies - 19%, 17%, 15%, a good ECU, a high torque exhaust.

That's about it. Intakes help very little and most is upper end. Heads and headers and throttle body only help about 5k also. TonyB made a good suggestion about light weight tires. They'll make your MINI more "torquey".

I have the 19% and the low-end torque is night and day even versus the 15%. And if you have the HUB version of the 15%, it's very inexpensive to switch. No problems either. Actually in warm temps with the A/C blasting, there's still plenty of low-end torque which you can't say about the 15% which really gets hurt with warm weather and the A/C.

 

From personal experience, the Unichip ECU provides a healthy dose of torque increase at low RPM that can be felt in real-life acceleration. Milltek exhaust offers a nice low-end torque return as well.

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dave- would the unichip do anything for a MCS without the pully like mine?
Just wondering...

 

>>dave- would the unichip do anything for a MCS without the pully like mine?

I can only speak from my own experience. Aside from JCW kit, Unichip as a single mod provided the most dramatic difference in power and acceleration, comparing to the intake, 63mm TB, header, exhaust, Nology wires, IK22, or Pilo pack. However, I don't want to speculate on how Unichip will perform with your setup. The reference chart from WMS website does show improvement.

They offer different ECU mappings for various upgrade combinations. Indeed, they have one for your setup. Since they didn't have one for my setup, I opted for custom tuning.

Unichip Dyno Plot

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If I have a chance to do it over, this will be my setup:

- 15% or 17% pulley
- Unichip ECU
- Milltek exhaust
- Alta CAI

This will cost well under $2000, while placing the persormance in par with JCW, if not, more. From my own experience, anything beyond that may not worth its value for a minimal return in power.

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>>Have 15% pulley, Cold air intake, Alta exhaust. What mod would help me with my low end torque. Was looking at 19% pulley but didn't like Randy's comments. Help anyone ?

I think it is true that the 19% reduction pulley would improve your low end torque. So would a good ECU upgrade, lighter wheels and maybe a larger intercooler.

But I would suggest that you focus on high rpm torque because with a 15% pulley you have lots of mid to upper range rpm torque, Just stay in the lower gears a bit longer and rev it higher. Try to drive in the 5000 to 6000 range. Forget the lower rpm stuff, the MINI really comes alive with high rpms so don't be shy. Go for the revs.

 

>>Largest torque increases (in this order): Pullies - 19%, 17%, 15%, a good ECU, a high torque exhaust.
>>
>>That's about it. Intakes help very little and most is upper end. Heads and headers and throttle body only help about 5k also. TonyB made a good suggestion about light weight tires. They'll make your MINI more "torquey".
>>
>>I have the 19% and the low-end torque is night and day even versus the 15%. And if you have the HUB version of the 15%, it's very inexpensive to switch. No problems either. Actually in warm temps with the A/C blasting, there's still plenty of low-end torque which you can't say about the 15% which really gets hurt with warm weather and the A/C.

The head healps alot at low end torque. It's just a matter of money though...



We are also taking a look at the Unichip as well, to see what the gains are on that.

 

Thanks, dave!
19whp and max 15ft/lbs increase is a great improvement. Now where
should I shop for such Unichip? I think that and the header would put me
just about where I want to be on my MCS (street only).. approx 200hp at the
crank.

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03MCS IB/B: 123, Aerokit, R90, Milltek, Pilo Intake, H-Sport, Alta Rear Swaybar, 6CDMP3, etc.

 

Ken, Unichip is available directly from http://www.unichip.us or Webb Motorspot. Make sure to specify your setup as they offer different mappings for various setups. What I like about unichip is it's all plug-n-play install and hence, easily reversable to stock in case of warranty issue. For me, its ability to have custom tunning is another plus. :smile:

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Is it required to re-map the ECU with 19% reduction? Also with the plug and play UNIchip... who re-maps it should you want to change it later? Do they give you software with pre-maps? I havnt had time to search their site... just wondering!

Any details on the install of a ECU?

 

>>Is it required to re-map the ECU with 19% reduction?

Unichip not only provides more hp/torque, it will also smooth out any abrupt power surge due to the pulley reduction or other mods. As a result, the car will have a smooth performance curve.

>>Also with the plug and play UNIchip... who re-maps it should you want to change it later?

The module can be re-programmed with other mappings if additional mods are added later. If custom mapping is desired, it is done on a dyno. In any case, the unit comes with 2 mappings and can be switched between A/B mapping at any time.

>>Do they give you software with pre-maps?

For regular mapping, the unit comes pre-mapped according to the configuration combo on your car. For custom mapping, it takes place while the car is on the dyno. However, do keep in mind that the ECU is only as good as its "tuner." My car was tuned by 2 different tuners with 10 ft-lb torque difference between 2 tunings, which is dramatic.

>>Any details on the install of a ECU?
The unit comes with instruction. The installation requires mounting of 1 screw to secure the module and the rest is unplugging and plugging. Straight forward!



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Thanks for the info! That sounds good. What is the cost of the chip? How does this chip rate with the others out there?

 

cool, thanks dave!

Yah, Im running a user programmable piggyback called UTEC on my wrx
and its a very cool tuning device to have. As you said, being able to
revert back to stock setup on the fly is important sometimes. :smile:


>>Ken, Unichip is available directly from http://www.unichip.us or Webb Motorspot. Make sure to specify your setup as they offer different mappings for various setups. What I like about unichip is it's all plug-n-play install and hence, easily reversable to stock in case of warranty issue. For me, its ability to have custom tunning is another plus. :smile:

 

>>What is the cost of the chip?

Without custom mapping, the pre-mapped module is $735. For custom mapping, the blank module is $635 + the cost of tuning, which is $200 if done at Unichip in Portland. The price may vary depending on the tuning shop.

>>How does this chip rate with the others out there?

I don't want to speculate on other ECUs since I only have experience with Unichip on my car. What persuaded me is it's easily reversible to OEM spec due to plug-n-play install, custom tunable specifically for my car, and 2 selectable mappings with a switch mounted on the dash. Map A is "detuned" for regular driving, while map B is a more aggresive mapping for track day or spirited motoring when higher octane gasoline is used.



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Unichip needs to make it user tunable by giving us a window for running
logs at $735...kinda pricy (considering my UTEC was $999), but Im up
for it. :smile:

 

Bauer Porsche in Oakland, CA is a UNIChip tuner near me, and I spoke with them last week prior to the arrival of my UNIChip a couple days ago. They too charge 200 bucks for the dyno refinement. Makes me want to do quite a few mods at once (head, cam and IC), then dyno, as opposed to after each one. That is fine though...

I used the screw and washer initially in the gutter plug area (as the directions state), but then removed it. The velcro strip that I used seems to be more than enough, plus anchoring it with a screw on just one side (there are holes on the left and right) seemed a little strange to me...

Hey, anyone know how we get two maps (A & B) out of a 2-position on/off switch? I want to replace these rocker switches with something a little nicer, and I got curious... two wires is not on/on right? FWIW, I'm on B here in CA (91 octane) with no SES :smile:...

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2003 IB MCS

 

the 2 wire switch is probably grounding/not=grounding an IC terminal

 

>>Hey, anyone know how we get two maps (A & B) out of a 2-position on/off switch? I want to replace these rocker switches with something a little nicer, and I got curious... two wires is not on/on right? FWIW, I'm on B here in CA (91 octane) with no SES :smile:...

There are 2 switches on the Unichip, one is to switch between A/B mappings and the other is currently blank with no function. Randy is working on using the 2nd switch as sprayer switch for the IC if equipped. The A/B switch has a red LED light, whereas the other doesn't. I'm quite certain that the switches can be replaced with other rocker or toggle switches. I find it more convenient to mount the switches on the dash. The engine doesn't have to off when switching between A/B.

When doing a custom tuning with the Unichip, the maps are loaded by the tuner. The B mapping (LED on) is usually the more aggressive map reserved for high octane like racing fuel (e.g. 100 octane) or a mixture of racing fuel with some 91 or 92 octane fuels. Even though B mapping might not trigger SES using regular fuel, it might not be good for the engine in the long run as advised. :smile:



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Thanks John. I would then think that switching the wires on the back should not make a difference then, given the grounding nature. If switched (the two wires on back), would the red light be on for the A map, as opposed to the B?

Dave, the switches that came with mine are rocker switches, so I'm guessing that you got toggles? I have the Euro parcel shelf, and there is a blank-out area that is abut 1x3 inches - perfect for two switches and a light...

 

Tony, mine came with rocker switches. The blank switch panel on the parcel shelf is perfect for the Unichip swich and LED.

 

dave- i ordered my unichip this morning. will have it in my hands by
tomorrow. woohoo!

 

Ken, please update us with your initial impression and the level of fun factor elevation! :smile:

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