Ok than, what is possible within a realistic time frame and an amount of money that doesn't equal the price of another car.

Afterall, Prodrive did a 350hp countryman.

 

You want 250hp+
Stand alone ECU
Larger Turbo
Supporting mods
Bam you got your power.
Money involved, way too much.

 

Personally... I'm prolly just go with a catless dp... JCW exhaust... fmic... alta intake... diverter valve... and then a tune from evolve. Really hoping for around the 220/225 mark. Thats the magical number I'm working towards at least.

 

All sounds pretty good, thanks!

 

It won't need all that. Let's be realistic here.

 

Be realistic with me. What's going to make 250 HP and around 260ft lbs

 

250WHP/260TQ is pushing it with being reasonable. I can tell what will need to get you reliably close.

1. FMIC
2. W/M Injection
3. Hybrid K03/K04 Turbo
4. De-cat or High-flow-cat DP
5. Custom Dyno tune from RMW or Evolve

I would guess thats right about 4k give or take labor costs.

Additionally for the advice I just gave you, remove "rally" R56 from you signature, it's an embarrassment to the real WRC car. I noticed you mentioned the Prodrive car with 350 HP I hope you realize that electrical system for that vehicle probably costs more then your entire car. If you were smart you would mod the 03, much cheeper and easier.

 

Actually we're picking and pulling parts at junk yards and building a fun car.

 

I had the same goals, but then I added power to my JCW and realized that acheiving power and planting the power are two different things. Then add the the thought that you may want the car to be reliable and you're talking some different goals. My goal is to achieve about 270-280lbft of torque and about 240-250 hp at the crank. Right now I have about 230-240lbft and about 220hp. JCW engine, Stage 1 Alta AP, custom 3" exhaust.

I have, however, ditched the run-flats and put new/light wheels on it. Made a massive amount of difference. I forget the conversion but for 1lb of rotational mass reduced is like an effective 20lbs of mass lost. Add some grippy tires and you've got a quick car. Some light Motegi 17x7 and 215/40/17 tires run about $900 from tirerack. I'm getting a better LSD in the near future and I would sugges you do the same. They run from $1000-1700. If you actually acheive the power you want and you don't have a better LSD all you're going to do is have your front end jump around and go nowhere. Here is what I would do:

-Cold Air Intake (look into M7, AEM, NM, or even the JCW version): $200-500

-New Catted DP (catted so you don't fail emissions): $500-900

-New 2.5"-3" (most will say 2.5" but I get the best exhaust velocity in the 3000-6000RPM range with a 3"): Custom (pipe + magnaflow muffler or Cherry bomb) $200-300. Alta, NM, Aprovik $800-1000

-FMIC: $500-800

-Uprated Turbo: Rebuilt $900-1200. New JCW $1300-1600

-Tune: Used Alta AP: $600-800. Evolve-R: $800-900. Not sure about other decent options.

Those are just mods for power and you're looking at $3000 on the absolute lowest end; $8000 on the highest (taking into accout you may do more than I suggested). I would recommend suspension mods to keep the car planted with the new power as well as uprated brakes to keep you from running a red light.

 

.... What?

 

I am telling you guys 250 to the wheels is not possible by simple bolt ons and a tune. It is not going to happen. I know of 1 personally with 250+ and he dropped in about 8 months of not driving his MINI and about $11k on getting it to where it was.

 

+1 . Much more important to plant the power you have.

 

I'm getting tuned in a week, I'll let you know how it goes!
Mod List:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ys-minxie.html

 

Whichever mods you throw at it, you're going to need a tune. This will be one of the most costly and important mods. I'm sold on the Accessport, but others may be as good, i.e., Evolve has come a long way recently. RMW is the most popular IF you can get his attention, for updates, etc.

Choose your mods to fit the final use --- street, track, autocross, daily driver, show & tell? Then let us know if you want 250WHP or 250BHP. Lotsa mods will add NO HP, just improved performance.

Most of my HP gains were from making the engine breathe better, but since most mods were done at the same time, there's no info on how much each one added. Highly recommend a WMI system and OCC - to keep the intake valves and cylinders clean. No HP gains by themselves, just improved reliability. Once you get the desired HP, these let you keep it!

 

What kind of whp are you putting down? Cobb tuning website has an r56 with ported thumper head and bigger turbo putting down 270+ to the wheels with I think 230 tq

 

That's me!

Taken from my "Garage" --- Dyno tuned at Cobb by Alta (Jeff Perrin). Chart can be viewed at www.accessecu.com/dyno/ - Cobb's Surgeline facility.

This chart shows 276HP. Another chart, not posted, running 17 - 20 PSI boost, shows 282HP. I've been assured that these are WHP numbers, not BHP.

 

Please if you can post all your mods and how much money it cost to get you where you are on these graphs.

 

Didn't you have a blog with your build? And the issues the GT turbo gave you?

 

You went with a larger turbo and got more HP but, lost a lot of tq. Meh not for me.

 

Mods are listed in the signature. A few pics are in my "garage". Cost was close to $20K, parts & labor! Labor performed by others (dealer) includes the head & clutch / flywheel / LSD --- I don't have tools for that kind of labor. About $1K of that is for small parts that didn't get used, and shipping fees. There was lots of trial & error with the turbo air inlet & outlet hoses.

Still waiting for a dyno tune after my last mods --- WMI and FCD's. Gonna be another couple months before that happens. Using an AP "remote tune" while I'm waiting. Should be OK if I don't get carried away with the high boost temptation --- running about 25PSI maximum now. Don't hit it often --- no need!

As already posted, it takes big bucks to get serious HP!

 

Here's an updated version of that journal, unless I screwed it up ---
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...e-nov-2012.pdf

 

You can probably imagine what the light flywheel is like, with a slow-boosting turbo --- not pretty! Takes a lot of clutch-slipping for a quick & noisy getaway! Similar HP could be obtained with a hybrid turbo (instead of the Garrett), not available when I started a couple years ago. I learned a lot AFTER the build. What the hell, it's one fun machine!

 

Yeah, should been on here when you started we could have helped you out. I have a hybrid turbo and I am losing my patience with trying to get it tuned right now. I can drive it but, even with the stock tune on it I boost cut. I found that the MAF holds the US spec R56s back and that if it wasn't on there we could have a lot more fun with running more boost and stuff.

 

What does a tune cost at Cobb? I already have the AP, just looking to get a tune after I put on my FMIC. And, is it worth it over the generic ap stage 3 tune?

 

The AP is being discontinued.
If you want 250 hp in a R56 sell your S buy a JCW get a tune (RMW) intercooler and meth kit.
it will make it.
Local guy to me just dynoed his car at 258 wheel and 285 ft pounds.