Hi all, this is my 2nd post after lingering on this forum for the past week and reading a TON of threads. I just purchased my first MC, a lightly modded 2005 S Cabrio with 85k miles. I'm new to Mini's but not new to tuning, previous cars include 99 Civic Si, 02 WRX and 03 350Z, motorcycles, all lightly modded for daily driver use. Engine mods are:

17% Alta SC Pulley
2% Craven Speed Crank Pulley
K&N Panel Filter

I haven't taken delivery yet so I'm not sure if it's running OEM or colder plugs. There is a slight pinging sound under load at full throttle in 6th gear above 4k rpm, which I've read up on already. (possibly other gear but didn't hear any during test drives). I have a whole list of routine maintenance items and checks I plan to go through upon delivery to get her in tip top running shape to take me well into 100k miles.

My overarching concern is this: This is my daily driver and I do not intend to track the car nor am I looking for the maximum horsepower I can get out of the car. Like most people, I want the most reliable power I can get (and the best value for the dollar as $$ is a factor). From what I've read anything above a 17% pulley is pushing the limits of the cars internals and greatly increases the chances of issues, especially without a tune, which I do NOT intend to get.

After speaking with Alta today they recommended moving down to a 15% pulley and just keeping the 2% crank pulley, as the SC pulley is easier to change, effectively resulting in a 17% SC pulley. That said I'm considering just purchasing an Alta 15% Pulley package, adding the tensioner stop and a new belt (given mileage). In the future the only addition engine mods I plan on adding are new plugs and possibly a CAI down the road. Thoughts on this proposed route, pros & cons, other suggestions?

Thanks in advance and I can't wait to start motoring!

 

Dropping to the 15% & keeping the 2% would be a better choice for what you're looking to have, and besides the CAI, I think the only other thing I would look into would be a set of JCW injectors, even without a tune, and then if later down the road, you had an oportunity for a tune, you would be pretty much right where you needed to be.

All though, I really would suggest a tune no matter what, don't forget, the reason a tune maximizes performance is because it maximizes the effeciency of the parts you have.

 

Thanks BlwnAway. What can one expect to pay on average for a tune these days? Any PHX area Mini owners recommend a good shop? I know of DynoComp, Vivid Racing and Intense Motorsports but a recommendation would be appreciated.

 

As far as locally I wouldn't know who to recomend, maybe someone else can help with that, but as far as your options, basiclly you have these:

-Find someone locally who tunes Mini's
-Get hooked up with a tune party close enough you're willing to drive to. (usually the least expensive option)
-Do some research & choose a tuner that you can set up a remote tune with.
-Invest in tuning software that would allow you to self tune or remote tune in that way.

All of these options are going to have different price points & +/- for each individual person, but in your case your lucky, with the level of mods that you're talking about, (even 380cc injectors) the ecu will compensate "well enough" that you can drive the car for as long as you need too, to get your tuning descision made.

 

+1 to getting JCW 380cc injectors if you don't already have them right away; no tune is necessary to use them. If you keep the 17% pulley, see about getting a GP intercooler (~$450) and diverter (~$140). Once you decide on what to get and what to keep, then get a tune. Canned tunes will run you about $200. A personal tune (one where you go through several revisions) will run $300 or more. Usually, with the personal tune, if you make later mods, retuning is a nominal fee (~$50).

I had a canned tune on my old '02 MCS with 15% and CAI. It ran great and actually got slightly better MPG. I currently have a personal RMW tune in my '06 MCS. You can also go with Way, Mynes, or ByteTronik. Most or all of these gentlemen can do both local and remote tunes. Remote tunes will involve something like a Dynapack at a dyno, or you can get your own programmer and OBD-II interface with datalogging software.

NGK BKR6s (and even BKR5s in some cases depending on the delivery location) are OEM plugs. Many go with NGK BKR7s or Iridium equivalent for a colder plug. I personally prefer the Brisk Silver DOR14LGS plugs. You might have to go even colder with a total of 19% effective. If you are interested, there is a Basic Guide to Spark Plugs sticky thread in the General MINI Talk section.

 

Great info, thanks! I'm going to go down to a 15%, but keep the 2% crank, so effectively I'll be at 17%. A local, reputable factory trained Mini mechanic offers the NGK Iridium in 1 AND 2 step colder plugs when he does pulley installations...he recommends 2 step colder for 17% and up. First I've heard of 2 steps colder, is that due to the brutal AZ heat?

 

We don't have anybody to recommend in the phx area. As a matter of fact, we are doing a CRM (Custom Remote Tune) for a MINI owner over there. With our CRM, we do NOT require that you sit at a dyno shop for hours at a time.... WOT tuning is the last step that we touch during the CRM session.

More info on CRM can be found here:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...rocedures.html

If you want to tune it yourself, then the FA53 is also an option for you.