Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Air Intake Box Mod question(s)

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Old Mar 27, 2004 | 03:36 PM
  #1  
efcmini's Avatar
efcmini
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Okay so I just did the six 2-inch hole cut outs in the partition behind the air intake box. I wish I would have tried it without removing a load of stuff and just tried the cut outs with everything in place, but as has been said it's fun removing everything anyway. Now here's the thing, I could not manage to get the rubber grommet (?) in the lower (original) hole back into place and so I just left it out. Anybody see a problem with that? I mean I've now got 6 bigger holes all with no grommets so the little one shouldn't matter should it?

The only other problem I've had is that I destroyed one of the original clamps (are they re-useable anyway?) and could not find anything with that 5/16" band width at either Pep Boys or Auto Zone. They are all 1/2" and don't fit into the clamp groove molded into the ends of the hoses. I got an original one free from the parts guy at Mini but I'm sure a special tool must be need as I cannot get it to go on.

Any ideas on any or all of the above.

Thanks,


Ken

ps Drove the car without the clamp secured properly and I'm getting severe whooshing noises so I can't give a good assessment of the mod yet. I hope that goes away when the clamp is secure.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2004 | 03:40 PM
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>>ps Drove the car without the clamp secured properly and I'm getting severe whooshing noises so I can't give a good assessment of the mod yet. I hope that goes away when the clamp is secure.

the wooshing noises are the noise from the intake, now that it has one less degree of seperation from the driver's compartment - enjoy!
 
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Old Mar 27, 2004 | 03:51 PM
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>>the wooshing noises are the noise from the intake, now that it has one less degree of seperation from the driver's compartment - enjoy!


Ah ha! Well...erm..no problem then if that's what it is supposed to sound like. Anyway I forgot to add one more thing I did which may sound a bit stupid to some of you...before I even started the job I special ordered a new partition just in case I didn't like the results. The whooshing can grow on me so I'm not going to swap back immediately.

Ken
 
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Old Apr 21, 2005 | 06:56 PM
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A zip-tie'll prolly do the trick...
 
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 08:12 PM
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I did this mod eariler today along with chrome blackout and rear light tints. Now what i did was 6 - 3/4" holes, also i was missing bolth metal straps, so i used zip ties. Bolth worcked flawlessly and it sounds so good, it almost gives it a deep rumble at %75 throttle. And i also noticed a very big diffrence in power, the low end lag is gone and im still running the stock paper drop in filter, i do have a k&n coming soon though so i can imagine thats going to help alot. So to all who read this please trust me, ots not worth paying $260 for an intake u can make yourself for $56
 
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 08:15 PM
  #6  
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With the $200 u save u can pay off the ticket u get from using ur newly discovered power
 
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 08:33 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by efcmini
Okay so I just did the six 2-inch hole cut outs in the partition behind the air intake box. ... I could not manage to get the rubber grommet (?) in the lower (original) hole back into place and so I just left it out. Anybody see a problem with that? I mean I've now got 6 bigger holes all with no grommets so the little one shouldn't matter should it?


ps Drove the car without the clamp secured properly and I'm getting severe whooshing noises so I can't give a good assessment of the mod yet. I hope that goes away when the clamp is secure.
I'm uncertain what you did...you put 6-2 inch holes in back of the separation partition, but what did you do to the intake into the airbox? I'm assuming you still have the stock airbox, correct?

BTW, the clamps are reusable. You need a set of channel locks or similar to get them to reconnect...
 
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 09:40 AM
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Instead of taking the whole thing apart and drilling 2"holes I took a soldering iron reached into the airbox and melted 15-20 Half inch diameter holes into the partition in about 10 minutes, clean,quick and done.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 03:00 PM
  #9  
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sorry, im an idiot :)

Originally Posted by beemerrich
I'm uncertain what you did...you put 6-2 inch holes in back of the separation partition, but what did you do to the intake into the airbox? I'm assuming you still have the stock airbox, correct?

BTW, the clamps are reusable. You need a set of channel locks or similar to get them to reconnect...
no just drill nine 3/4'' holes in the bottom half of your stock air box (better than my original 6.) thats all you need and you wont have to worry about water as much. Also leave the intake to the air box because that will add cooler air from outside to add to the (bad) hot air in ur engine compartment and btw don't even bother with those stupid clips, black zip ties work better (and blend in better) if u know the trick to getting them extra tight.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 03:43 PM
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Okay, I get it...the poor man's HAI w/ swiss cheese mod. I thought the OP was only drilling holes in the partition divider and not opening up the bottom 1/2 of the airbox.

I've already altered my stock airbox, but it consisted of opening up the stock, round duct that feeds cold air from the cowl area into a 1.5 inch by 4 inch long rectangle & sealing the gap from airbox to the partition divider using LDPE. I also dropped in an aftermarket foam filter...

Cheers,

--Rich
 
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 08:28 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by beemerrich
Okay, I get it...the poor man's HAI w/ swiss cheese mod. I thought the OP was only drilling holes in the partition divider and not opening up the bottom 1/2 of the airbox.

I've already altered my stock airbox, but it consisted of opening up the stock, round duct that feeds cold air from the cowl area into a 1.5 inch by 4 inch long rectangle & sealing the gap from airbox to the partition divider using LDPE. I also dropped in an aftermarket foam filter...

Cheers,

--Rich
i am confused on what u did exactly? and i would like to know, nd its not the poor mans way so chill. Its outrageous to pay $200 extra for a pipe and fitting that u already have in your car. trust me, maby a cone filter might make a .0005 difference over the drop in one. either way the engine only takes in so much air, "quote" (dosnt matter how big the hallway is, the door is still the same size) btw im not im not trying to start anything im just confused why one would waste money and eng up with the same thing?
 
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 02:55 PM
  #12  
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Ok little lost here....



I'm trying to understand where you "swiss chessed" your air box? I am assuming that this was done above the air filter, on the back side of the box?

Ay one has pics of this? Is there a safe how to on this? It sounds so simple, that I want to make sure I get this straight.

Also....isn't the reason to mod the intake is to put in a Cold air intake???If you drill holes on the back of the current box you will be sucking hot air from engine compartment....again "a little lost here"...

any help, diagram, or picture will be greatly appreciated!!!!

Thanks!
 
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 03:44 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Littlebritishcar1234
i am confused on what u did exactly? and i would like to know, nd its not the poor mans way so chill.
What I meant by 'poor man's way' was that it was DIY & free...not that you couldn't afford anything you cared to buy. FWIW, my DIY airbox modification was the same cost as yours. I'm not farting C-notes, so I try to spend wisely...

Next time I'm out working in the garage I'll snap a pic...obviously this thread is less than effective without them. My garage is unheated and being <20F out doesn't make working on anything outside too appealing, so it might be a bit.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 10:40 AM
  #14  
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Just to clarify, do not put holes in the top half of the airbox as you'll be pulling unfiltered air into the engine. Don't do that.

- Andrew
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 08:51 PM
  #15  
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Here's some pics of my DIY airbox improvements....I currently run an ALTA foam filter. My next step is to add a flange inside the lid (opposite the S/C feed) and fit a unifilter...will probably also add another cold air feed from the cowl into the top half of the airbox at that time...
 
Attached Thumbnails Air Intake Box Mod question(s)-057.jpg   Air Intake Box Mod question(s)-058.jpg  
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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 08:48 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Littlebritishcar1234
i am confused on what u did exactly? and i would like to know, nd its not the poor mans way so chill. Its outrageous to pay $200 extra for a pipe and fitting that u already have in your car. trust me, maby a cone filter might make a .0005 difference over the drop in one. either way the engine only takes in so much air, "quote" (dosnt matter how big the hallway is, the door is still the same size) btw im not im not trying to start anything im just confused why one would waste money and eng up with the same thing?
I am with you on this one. You can only flow so much air through the chock point ( throttle body ). Its all marketing and braggin rights. Without good intake vacuum you will not flow anything no matter how " open" your intake is.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 02:44 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by kimban
I am with you on this one. You can only flow so much air through the chock point ( throttle body ). Its all marketing and braggin rights. Without good intake vacuum you will not flow anything no matter how " open" your intake is.
Well, actually, you can increase the mass flow through the throttle body by increasing boost and/or increasing the density of the air charge. The latter is achieved by improving the intercooler efficiency and/or reducing the temperature of the incoming air.

In the case of the CAIs, the pressure drop across the filter is reduced (larger filter area) and more cold air from the cowl is directed into the airbox. The drop in diffential pressure across the S/C lowers its load and translates into less heat generation/a cooler (i.e. denser) air charge.

Most of this is small detail stuff and it isn't like you're gonna gain a bunch of power simply by going to a CAI. However, it's the sum of all parts that make power...
 
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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 07:12 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by beemerrich
Well, actually, you can increase the mass flow through the throttle body by increasing boost and/or increasing the density of the air charge. The latter is achieved by improving the intercooler efficiency and/or reducing the temperature of the incoming air.

In the case of the CAIs, the pressure drop across the filter is reduced (larger filter area) and more cold air from the cowl is directed into the airbox. The drop in diffential pressure across the S/C lowers its load and translates into less heat generation/a cooler (i.e. denser) air charge.

Most of this is small detail stuff and it isn't like you're gonna gain a bunch of power simply by going to a CAI. However, it's the sum of all parts that make power...
so what your saying is, you need to make 36 1/2' holes?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 07:54 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by ggcadc
so what your saying is, you need to make 36 1/2' holes?
Nope. Just disagreeing with the statement that there isn't any benefit to the CAIs offered by the various vendors...'just marketing', etc.
 
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