Drivetrain Advice for SC overhaul + pulley swap?
Advice for SC overhaul + pulley swap?
I just passed 100k km on my 2005 R53, and am thinking I should overhaul my supercharger. It needs a new belt, and the tensioner needs inspection, so I don't think there's any harm in pulling the thing completely apart.
I also figure this would be a good time to change my pulley to a 15% or 17% reduction (haven't decided which yet). If I have the supercharger off the car, will I still need the special tool? Or can I use a standard claw puller?
I have a few DIYs and walk-throughs, at least one of which is quite thorough, but I would appreciate any suggestions or tips. Thanks!
I also figure this would be a good time to change my pulley to a 15% or 17% reduction (haven't decided which yet). If I have the supercharger off the car, will I still need the special tool? Or can I use a standard claw puller?
I have a few DIYs and walk-throughs, at least one of which is quite thorough, but I would appreciate any suggestions or tips. Thanks!
Imperial MINI sells a supercharger recharge kit. I bought one but have not installed it just yet. He recommends changing the fluid every 25,000 miles. I think that's a little much, but I bought enough extra so I can do the flush several times. Shaun is very attentive and responsive to any issues you have. I've received several follow-up e-mails from him. Shaun even sent me an updated part for the kit, as he found something wrong or improved the design.
It's always recommended you get the special pulley tool specific to the factory Eaton M45 supercharger, regardless of which MINI store you go to. Some only require a deposit and will give it back when you return the tool. I'm sure you've read... you will have to disconnect all the upper and lower engine mounts and raise the engine about 4" to get the old OEM pulley off. The radiator hoses can be left intact; just be mindful how much they get pinched or pulled. I watched my pulley get changed, and it seems to be more effective leaving the supercharger bolted to the engine because of the amount of cranking needed with a long ratchet wrench.
It's always recommended you get the special pulley tool specific to the factory Eaton M45 supercharger, regardless of which MINI store you go to. Some only require a deposit and will give it back when you return the tool. I'm sure you've read... you will have to disconnect all the upper and lower engine mounts and raise the engine about 4" to get the old OEM pulley off. The radiator hoses can be left intact; just be mindful how much they get pinched or pulled. I watched my pulley get changed, and it seems to be more effective leaving the supercharger bolted to the engine because of the amount of cranking needed with a long ratchet wrench.
Imperial MINI sells a supercharger recharge kit. I bought one but have not installed it just yet. He recommends changing the fluid every 25,000 miles. I think that's a little much, but I bought enough extra so I can do the flush several times. Shaun is very attentive and responsive to any issues you have. I've received several follow-up e-mails from him. Shaun even sent me an updated part for the kit, as he found something wrong or improved the design.
It's always recommended you get the special pulley tool specific to the factory Eaton M45 supercharger, regardless of which MINI store you go to. Some only require a deposit and will give it back when you return the tool. I'm sure you've read... you will have to disconnect all the upper and lower engine mounts and raise the engine about 4" to get the old OEM pulley off. The radiator hoses can be left intact; just be mindful how much they get pinched or pulled. I watched my pulley get changed, and it seems to be more effective leaving the supercharger bolted to the engine because of the amount of cranking needed with a long ratchet wrench.
It's always recommended you get the special pulley tool specific to the factory Eaton M45 supercharger, regardless of which MINI store you go to. Some only require a deposit and will give it back when you return the tool. I'm sure you've read... you will have to disconnect all the upper and lower engine mounts and raise the engine about 4" to get the old OEM pulley off. The radiator hoses can be left intact; just be mindful how much they get pinched or pulled. I watched my pulley get changed, and it seems to be more effective leaving the supercharger bolted to the engine because of the amount of cranking needed with a long ratchet wrench.
I bought everything I'll need from Bimmer Specialist, Out Motoring, and my local auto-parts shop. That includes the proper pulley puller, which'll be for sale here when I'm done.
I'm going mostly by the attached tutorial. I can't remember where I got this from, but it's certainly worth sharing again - a great many thanks to its creator. I hope to get this done over the course of one day, two if absolutely necessary. We'll see! I probably won't save time for pictures...
So are you just LUBING your sc, or getting it rebuilt....new seals, bearing, getting the rotors retimed, maybe a port, or the interior of the body coated?! A new coupler is usually used in the snout.
a lube can be a diy, but with so many miles, a rebult one with fresh seals and bearings(which requires a machine shop) might be a good idea....
If you are goi g this route, a sc USUALLY comes (if a trade) witjout a pulley, but since you are removing the sc to service it (oil or swap), doing the pulley removal will be easy with any mini pulley puller..or a grinder if you want to old school it.
a lube can be a diy, but with so many miles, a rebult one with fresh seals and bearings(which requires a machine shop) might be a good idea....
If you are goi g this route, a sc USUALLY comes (if a trade) witjout a pulley, but since you are removing the sc to service it (oil or swap), doing the pulley removal will be easy with any mini pulley puller..or a grinder if you want to old school it.
Yeah, the Imperial kit is for making frequent lube changes. The premise behind it is the fact there is no repair window (you can check your MINI manual to verify it's not part of any of the scheduled maintenance).
Thanks for the tutorial link. Another good reference to keep handy.
Thanks for the tutorial link. Another good reference to keep handy.
Yes, just lubing it. No machining or disassembly beyond removal from the car. I'll flush it, I figure, and refill it with fresh oil. Replacing all the associated seals, but no real hardware.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
M7Speed
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
0
Sep 3, 2015 07:48 AM
Manny_cooper
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
1
Sep 3, 2015 05:48 AM



