Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Help with 19% upgrade

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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 12:48 PM
  #1  
05JCWS's Avatar
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I was originally skeptical and cautious about the 19%, but with the numbers coming out, I am starting to lean more to the 19%. I have the Alta 15% pulley. I have tried calling Alta, but it seems hard to get someone, so I am posting the question here.

The Alta now sells a 19% pulley. Can the 15% and 19% pulley "head" be swapped with the existing spindle already on the supercharger? Or do you have to go to the Helix design or replace the whole Alta pulley with the 19% pulley? I saw that Andy changed his in about 30 minutes. I know it would require a belt change as well. Any help would be great.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 12:52 PM
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i already asked that same question, and got a resonse of "no, the altas cannot do that."

don't know if that holds true or not b/c i've never seen one. The helix pullies do, but unfortunately you'd have to buy two separate pullies. I spoke with Eric and he says he does not sell the hubs separate from the pullies, but if i wanted to buy two to interchange, i could order two, and he would keep one of the hubs - just knock 20 bucks off the price of the second.... to me that wouldn't be worth it - just buy two "complete" pullies then.... (which i plan on doing)

and you can never get a hold of anyone at alta... i tried calling them all week - left messages and even tried parts line, help line, ordering line, etc.... they don't answer phones or return calls.

good luck!
-ABT-

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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 01:08 PM
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Actually, the ALTA pulleys DO interchange on the hub...I saw the two pullies side-by-side last weekend at a pulley install and, though I didn't fir each pulley to the hub, Randy Webb assured me that they do indeed interchange.

You'll need a smaller belt for the 19% pulley, though.

Marty
 
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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 03:05 PM
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This is cool news. That would be really great.

Andy,

How hard was it to change yours. You said 30 minutes. Did it just require taking off the belt, unbloting the old pulley head, and rebolting on the new one?
 
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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 03:12 PM
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So does a 15% to 19% swap require lifting the engine or removing the front bumper?
 
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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 03:16 PM
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Pop the hood.
Move the little doohickey with the vacuum lines out of the way.
Loosen bolts on pulley.
Use the pulley tensioner tool to compress the spring and use a small screwdriver through the hole to hold it in place.
Remove bolts on pulley.
Slide pulley to end of shaft and remove.
Put screws in new pulley and lower into place.
Slide new pulley onto end of shaft and rotate into place.
Tighten screws most of the way.
Use the pulley tensioner tool to compress the spring and remove the small screwdriver.
Tighten screws the rest of the way.
Move the little doohickey with the vacuum lines back in the way.
Check for tools.
Start engine.
Enjoy.

I should know the name for the doohickey, but it escapes me at the moment.
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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 03:32 PM
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Andy,

Thanks for the steps. Did you have the Alta pulley or the Helix?
 
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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 03:35 PM
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Helix/P&D

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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 03:42 PM
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Almost sounds like something I could do myself. :smile: So then no belt change? If a belt change, then does the belt tensioner need to be removed?
 
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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 04:31 PM
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Neither the belt nor the tensioner were removed when I did the swap. The belt stayed pretty much in the same spot during the whole operation. If the belt needed to be changed, I think it could be twisted and tugged into place easily, as long as the tensioner was compressed.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 06:49 PM
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What happened to:

Drill secret access hole?
 
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Old Mar 12, 2004 | 06:57 AM
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The secret access hole ended up not being needed since I couldn't seem to locate a ball-end hex key. I did my wrenching the old fashioned way - a few flats at a time.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2004 | 07:07 AM
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AHA!

Looks like Ron Popeil might find yet another niche...

M
 
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Old Mar 12, 2004 | 07:25 AM
  #14  
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Ronco makes pullies?
 
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Old Mar 12, 2004 | 07:03 PM
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>>The secret access hole ended up not being needed since I couldn't seem to locate a ball-end hex key. I did my wrenching the old fashioned way - a few flats at a time. <<

You can borrow mine! Ball hex's are one of those tools that you think you should own for that one time you need them......until you buy them and see that you can use them all the time.

 
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Old Mar 12, 2004 | 08:01 PM
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well i am glad to hear the alta's are interchangeable... i asked the same thing on mini2 a couple of months ago and i got the answer "no they are not."

well, another reason why NAM continues to out-motor mini2!

So for SURE the altas are swappable on the same hub? if that is the case, which would you guys prefer?

the Helix 15/19 combo or the alta 15/19 combo? (give scenarios of where price was/was not an object).

thanks!
-ABT-
 
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Old Mar 12, 2004 | 08:15 PM
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I think it comes down to personal preference, and what you like the looks of best.

I like them both but was conveniently close to a Webb M'Sports pulley party. Otherwise I would have driven to Philly and bought the pieces, installed them myself (probably over a whole day rather than the 45 minutes it took Randy, but that's another story...). The Helix pulley looks cool too (props to jlm and Eric). Same function served - whichever you like best. I know it sounds hackneyed, but YOU are the one spending the dollars, just pick whichever you like more looks-wise. I don't think there's much difference, except that the ALTA unit is full stainless whereas the Helix isn't. They're both taper bore, which is supposedly superior to interference fit. Just know that this mod is absolutely wonderful!!!

Good luck, either one will widen your grin considerably.

Marty
 
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Old Mar 13, 2004 | 07:26 AM
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the Helix taper fit pulley is all stainless; the draw bolts are cad plated high strength steel which holds up better than stainless bolts.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2004 | 08:23 AM
  #19  
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I will be ordering my Helix 19% this week, I am looking foward to put it on.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2004 | 08:33 AM
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LOL - of course you're not biased John! Please explain why cadmium plated HSS bolts "hold up better" than stainless. Your sig says it all
 
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Old Mar 13, 2004 | 08:47 AM
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I too am thinking of a pulley upgrade and see that there is a price difference
between the Alta ($165 from Webb Motosports) and the Helix shown here:

HMS 2007 MCS 15% Supercharger Pulley $100.00
HMS 2008 MCS 15% Clamp-on Style $120.00
HMS 2009 MCS 17% Clamp-on Style $120.00
HMS 2010 MCS 19% Clamp-on Style $120.00
HMS 2011 MCS 17% Aluminum Pulley without Hub $80.00
HMS 2012 MCS 19% Aluminum Pulley without Hub $80.00

Why such a big difference in price? Is one better than the other (more reliable, nicer finish, etc.)?
Which Helix is comparable to the one Webb Motorsports sells?

Thanks!
 
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Old Mar 13, 2004 | 09:15 AM
  #22  
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outmotoring has alta pullies for $130.00
 
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Old Mar 13, 2004 | 11:16 AM
  #23  
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I've been using stainless socket head fasteners for many, many years. I stock thousands, from 2-56 through 3/8"-24, socket head, flat head and button head. I also stock the same inventory in black oxide high strength steel. My primary use is for structural architectural projects, where the look of stainless steel is sometimes needed.

My experience has been that the socket drive hex is considerably easier to strip out in a stainless steel fastener and this can make the bolt a ***** to get out in a counterbored hole. The much harder high strength steel works better in this regard and the plating prevents corrosion. The stainless threads in the hub are the weak link, not the bolt, but if the drive hex goes, you have a problem.

We obviously could have used stainless steel bolts, six #10-32 x 1-1/4" would cost about $1.50, suit your self.

my onus is satisfied.

For a great read, try Carroll Smith "Nuts, Bolts and Fasteners..." on pg 91: ..."the stainless items are useless for our purposes simply because they are weak (about 90,000 psi UTS) and should only be used on boats, and then with a great deal of caution."

nevertheless, that wasn't my argument. Smith is a serious guy and deserves a read.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2004 | 11:43 AM
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The stainless threads in the hub are the weak link, not the bolt, but if the drive hex goes, you have a problem.
Thanks for your explaination, John.
 
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