It could be - the N18 is 181/184.

To the people still asking, though, the bottom line is that no matter how many times people bring it up, OBD flashing on the 2011+ is not physically possible - nor will it ever be.

 

Scott,

Thanks for the clarification, I guess that I need to give Renntech and NM a call.

 

Picked up The Dread Pirate yesterday...

HOLY CRAP!!!!!!!!

The MINI is a beast now!

 

Is it that huge of a difference? If so, that's awesome! Details please!

 

Stage 2 did you well, eh? LOL I'm gonna be going from Stage 1 to Stage 2 in March after my FMIC install. Can't wait to see the differences.

 

The full Stage 2 is insanely cool. Hard to describe the differences other than just the "wow" feeling.

 

I'm a bit confused by this and have been wondering about the DP for some time. When you say either would be sufficient that seems incorrect since my understanding is intercooler is absolutely necessary but DP isn't. Also, I understand the difference between stage 1 & 2 but not within different mods.

By that I mean is there any significant difference between stage 1 (DP, exhaust, intake no IC) and stage 2 (Exhaust, intake, IC, no DP) and stage 2 with all 4? Not sure if I'm being very clear about my question but I'll gladly elaborate if necessary...

 

You got me, I just know a stock mini should have the stage one and the stage two is for intake, exhaust, intercooler.

 

Just buy all of it. That's what I did.

 

Haha, trust me I would if I could. But aside from financial restrictions it might be helpful to know for those that prefer one over the other.

I for example love the idea of a DP but also don't like the idea of my exhaust being too loud (stratmosphere). If the gains with a DP (catted or not) are marginal either in combination with, or in lieu of an IC then maybe someone like me might skip the DP. That of course depends on the combination of the 4 previously mentioned mods + stage 1 or 2.

I know I am making this sound way more complicated than I need to....

 

If you can go stage 2 without a DP then my recommendation would be to not buy it.

I'm not sure if NM's tune would really take full advantage of being cat-less anyway....that calls for custom dyno tuning. They aren't squeezing everything out of the car.

But that could be a benefit....not as much accelerated wear and tear.

 

Without a doubt the FMIC is a bigger factor in supporting a higher-stage tune. Go with the FMIC first.

 

IMO, the FMIC being the requirement makes the most sense. It's a necessity to keep IAT's down so you're able to be aggressive with ignition timing and fuel mixture.

I look at it like this:

FMIC enables the car to run more boost, spark advance, and more aggressive fuel maps. ultimately this is a total power output mod.

Catless/high flow DP: Although there is some power to be gained here, the real advantage is being able to spool the turbo sooner, helping you realize your new-found power at a faster pace.

I'm doing it all.

 

If that's correct about the NM tune not taking full advantage of the DP with either stage 1 or 2 then that pretty much answers my question. Maybe Jerry can chime in and confirm that.

Or maybe I should have just asked him first!

Oh well, I cant be the only one wondering

 

Don't worry, I emailed him right now haha

No point in me assuming when I can just ask haha....I'll let you know what he says.

 

So it looks like 210hp 230 tq.
And that's including a catless DP.

Jerry told me anymore power and I'd better start saving up for a new clutch lol

 

This is stage 2? With catless DP and FMIC?

 

Yup stage 2

He mention that boost will spike at 18-19lbs
Some cars spike over 20lbs...at that point that's around 220-230 HP at the wheels.


He said himself the numbers are conservative.

Seem kinda low to you?

 

It seems a tad low to me. With a DP, FMIC, and Stage 2, I was thinking ~225 hp, 240 tq. But it sounds like some cars see those numbers at times.

Anyway, I'd probably rather stay on the conservative side of things, especially with an auto trans. :(

 

I agree that it does seem low...but I understand Jerry's stand point and his comment about saving up for a clutch lol.

I'd love to get a custom dyno tune but with these N18's it just makes it a lot more difficult.

When I get my car back from AEM on Friday I might go ahead and just get the tune.

First I have to see if my ECU meets the cut off date that they can tune =\.

Anything after build 3/12 they can't do yet because that's when the new encryption code was put in place by BOSCH.

 

I was just going to mention the encryption issue. Honestly, I've had such good experience with Jerry, if he could tune my ECU (04/2012 build date) I'd go with NM hands down. Otherwise, the next best in my opinion is RennTech.

Evolve is supposed to have a good tune for the N18. They are working on a U.S. distributor according to their site. They'd be up there with NM and RennTech if they got a U.S. distributor.

Like you say, a dyno tune for the N18 is probably a lost cause. I get the sense Jan is not too interested in doing them and who can blame him.

 

Has anyone done the Renntech tune?

 

I am curious why Renntech can figure out how to do the later '12 engines and NM cannot. Everyone speaks so highly of them and it sounds like they know what they're doing...so it's weird that the new encryption is unbreakable for them - yet Renntech can do it.

 

Yea, I posted somewhere that I don't blame Jan for not being interested in tuning N18's, especially on the dyno.

Everytime a change needs to be made, the ECU has to be pulled out to be flashed....very annoying I'm sure. I'll have to look up Evolve if my ECU doesn't qualify.

This blows lol

 

Agreed.

You ain't kidding . . .