Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R56) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Boost leak, faulty tune, or what? HELP!!!

Old Aug 13, 2012 | 06:17 PM
  #26  
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Been there, done that. I had all your symptoms and looked for two years. Ended up being a bad turbo. It would not boost fast enough. It boosted OK for the factory tune but not the aftermarket tune. When it finally should the same symptoms with the factory tune (about two years after the initial problem) then I was able to work with the dealer and determine it was the turbo.

Your error will be a boost plausibility error. The turbo is not spooling up fast enough. I had my turbo replace and the MINI world is wonderful again.

I was missing out on power for over two years without being able to diagnose the problem.


THERE IS NO SPOON. THERE IS NO LEAK. I got that same line from multiple people so I smoke checked and pressure check the entire intake track to 22 PSIg. NO EFFIN LEAKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

Last edited by scottab36; Aug 15, 2012 at 07:41 AM.
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 08:20 AM
  #27  
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If you were running a tune that was too aggressive through a stock cat you could've melted/blocked the cat. The subsequent heat would scorch anything.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 08:22 AM
  #28  
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That problem would be much easier to diagnose as it would present a different set of symptoms and codes.

Originally Posted by Raymazing
If you were running a tune that was too aggressive through a stock cat you could've melted/blocked the cat. The subsequent heat would scorch anything.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 02:01 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by scottab36
That problem would be much easier to diagnose as it would present a different set of symptoms and codes.
Well actually you are wrong.

a melted and restricted pre cat on the turbo downpipe presents with a lack of boost and a p2885 boost implausibility error.

How do I know? just took me 3 months to diagnose this on my rally JCW

If you haven't done so,already I would strongly suggest you check the cat. If yours is melted and partially blocked that may be the reason your turbo failed, and the new turbo may not last so long.

Robbo
 

Last edited by robbo mcs; Aug 16, 2012 at 02:08 AM.
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 03:22 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by robbo mcs
Well actually you are wrong.

a melted and restricted pre cat on the turbo downpipe presents with a lack of boost and a p2885 boost implausibility error.

How do I know? just took me 3 months to diagnose this on my rally JCW

If you haven't done so,already I would strongly suggest you check the cat. If yours is melted and partially blocked that may be the reason your turbo failed, and the new turbo may not last so long.

Robbo
You had no other symptoms other than the P2885 code? I will follow up on the cat question.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 05:19 AM
  #31  
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Thats why its easier to just not run one =)
 
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 05:55 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by robbo mcs
Well actually you are wrong.

a melted and restricted pre cat on the turbo downpipe presents with a lack of boost and a p2885 boost implausibility error.

How do I know? just took me 3 months to diagnose this on my rally JCW

If you haven't done so,already I would strongly suggest you check the cat. If yours is melted and partially blocked that may be the reason your turbo failed, and the new turbo may not last so long.

Robbo

I check with my mechanic and the CAT is not melted or damaged. That was one of the things he originally checked whilst troubleshooting the problem.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 05:57 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by soopercupererik
thats why its easier to just not run one =)
Don't tempt me!!!!!!
 
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 06:50 AM
  #34  
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I've done it! CT emissions NO problemo with Jan's tune! TQ increase is ridiculously noticeable.

Plus... all that seaforming you do will eventually clog up the cells in the cat, as you're just moving all the carbon build up downstream the pipeline from the valves to the cat. Seeing how gunked up the carbon can get... I would not be one bit surprised about it clogging the cat eventually.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 07:41 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by SooperCuperErik
I've done it! CT emissions NO problemo with Jan's tune! TQ increase is ridiculously noticeable.

Plus... all that seafoaming you do will eventually clog up the cells in the cat, as you're just moving all the carbon build up downstream the pipeline from the valves to the cat. Seeing how gunked up the carbon can get... I would not be one bit surprised about it clogging the cat eventually.

I just spoke with the Sea Foam guys and they say that Sea Foam will not harm the CAT; this is a good thing as it's a weekly event. My concern with running no CAT is the additional exhaust noise. I've painstakingly tuned my 2.5" exhaust to be as quiet, inside the MINI, as possible. How loud is your MINI now? Also what down pipe are you using.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2017 | 08:09 AM
  #36  
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Question about the same problem

Hello Caleb i've the same synthoms in my MCS 08, did you found the solution? Diverter valve? BOV spring? Boost pressure sensor?
When i turn off /on the car boost until i full throttle ups limp mode 😲 check in the Rev counter
 
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Old Jul 25, 2017 | 09:33 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Luis Enrique Vasquez Lee
Hello Caleb i've the same synthoms in my MCS 08, did you found the solution? Diverter valve? BOV spring? Boost pressure sensor?
When i turn off /on the car boost until i full throttle ups limp mode 😲 check in the Rev counter
I don't remember what point this was in the life of my first motor. There was always something wrong, and I was always learning. I believe after replacing the turbo I was good temporarily. I think this particular instance was due to a broken wastegate actuator. But as was recommended to me, start small and go from there. Check the diverter valve, if it's fine, move on to a smoke test, if nothing there, check sensors, if nothing there, maybe time to pull the turbo. One way to get a general sense of the wastegate condition is to put your hand down there and wiggle the actuator to see how much back/forth play it has, obviously only when the engine is completely cool. Best of luck
 
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