eTuner has pictures of a hot-glued engine mount (torque arm); link here:

http://etuners.gr/en/index.php?s=12&t=306

What do you think? Will it hold in the heat? Will it be rathe stiff for the street? It is interestingly amusing at the very least.

 

It wouldn't cost anything to try it!

Dave

 

I wonder why hot glue? Aren't there better and/or more permanent options?

 

Interesting, I may give this a whirl. It would be nice to be able to do this with it still on the car though.

Sean

 

Hot glue would be cheaper then say urethane doing it the same way. I don't think it would hold up that long compared to solid urethane mounts.

 

I think with the right type of glue it would be pretty durable. I've tried both the NM insert and the Powerflex one, neither one I liked.

My assessment of the cause for vibration feedback in not the inserted part itself (inside the holes) but the part of the urethane bushing lip that gets sandwiched between the torque arm outer lip and the frame mount. By doing so, it allows vibration feedback to travel straight from the torque arm to the frame mount, instead of arm through rubber, to inner metal and on to the frame mount. If you can eliminate any contact between the outer portion of the torque arm to the frame mount, then you eliminate vibration feedback.

Just a theory...been wanting to put it to practice but haven't yet. I even tried cutting back the lip on a Powerflex. Reduced the vibration, but didn't eliminate it. This might be the ticket...just fill the rubber portion without "doming" the glue.

 

That makes sense. I need to look more at the stock bushing.

Sean

 

I tried motor mount inserts from Mini Madness 4 years ago- The vibration was so bad I removed them 5 minutes later.

Then I filled the voids in the factory bushing with high temp RTV silicone & baked in an oven to dry.

It's been 10K miles with no problems or increased NVH.

Also noticed my motor really didn't move around much while on the dyno so it must of helped...

 

This is nonsense.

Buy an NM-engineering insert or a BSH mount. Those are the best solutions hands down. Why would anyone pay over $25K for a car, modify it with thousands of dollars worth of quality parts, and cheap out on engine mounts by using hot glue?! Seriously... STOP!

 

Hey! It's cheap, and if it doesn't work, get an expensive bushing!

I love the idea!

Dave

 

Do it right the first time. Best advice I've heard from many car modders whether it be from hot rodders to tuners. Dumping RTV into a bushing is ridiculous.

 

Maybe hot glue is the right thing to do, didja ever think of that?!

Dave

 

If what I read at regretsy.com is true, there's an army out there ready to solve any problem great or small with their hot glue guns.

 

This needs to be merged into the Dorky cheapskate modification thread.

 

Really? I did a urethane fill on my 07 before the inserts were really available. It worked great and has lasted well.

-my 0.02

 

Wow lets tell him not to do this but, we encourage dumb visual mods and mods that do nothing to the car. This is why this forum is starting to go down hill and why the MINI is circling the drain on performance(the R56).

 

The BSH mount is has way too much vibration, even for me. The noise is ridiculous.

 

People have been putting p urethane in engine mounts for years. Totally works. Gotta love all the haters that wanna spend more money

 

 

Yep, expanding foam really has been used for years by others on a budget, with really good success.

Hot Glue? Really? Just buy a can of great Stuff and call it a day. Fill up the holes, let it cure, the cut the excess off flush.

 

I used this stuff. I got it at autozone.

-JL

 

I don't post too often, but my thoughts are:

I LIKE the idea of filling in the voids to reduce the twisting action of the mount. That idea has merit. In fact, that's exactly what the drop-in bushings do.

BUT. Hot glue uses heat to flow. <- duh. I think that the heat produced (especially on a long drive where EVERYTHING gets heat soaked) will cause it to re-flow...and thus flow OUT of the void spaces.

IF high-temp RTV or some type of high-temp AND high-density product were used, it MAY prove benificial.

 

Window polyurethane will work. Honda folks used to do it all the time (including myself on my old hatch) When times are tough do what you have to do. But an insert is not expensive.


Lol Joe,

The engine mount doesnt heat soak, its at the bottom of the chassis and is exposed to heavy air flow... cold as ice

 

Just because filling the voids in a busing is inexpensive doesn't make this a "Cheap" mod.

Take it from a guy that replaced all rubber bushings with polyurethane pieces then put rubber back in due to increased NVH & squeaking on my last car. I have $50K into my car so I wasn’t trying to save a couple bucks when filling the voids with high temp RTV silicone. I just wanted to limit the excessive movement of the stock mount without increasing NVH & it worked.

FYI- People considering this mod may want to purchase this product:

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DIYMMI

 

Same stuff as window polyurethane. Good stuff if you can get it right