I bought some Polyurethane filler and filled my engine mount up. I'm going to install it early this week. Nothing to do with doing a "cheap" mod, as I have a BSH lower torque arm (most expensive one on offer), and I hate it. I actually think that in a way, this might prove to be better than the inserts, as someone mentioned, the new material won't come in contact with the engine mounting bracket-thingy. No loss on my end, if I don't like it, I'll just go back to stock

 

Another Thumbs up on the 3M Window Weld. It was very popular on the Mazda MX6 forums back when I had one several years ago. The trick is to fill the mount in layers so each cures for a day before adding more. It is sturdy and flexible enough to reduce movement but not let in too much vibration. I prefered it to replacement polyurethane motor mounts and rear control arm bushings which I found too stiff on the Mazda.

 

It just seem that there are people here that want the parts but don't want to spend money for them. Then when someone comes around with something like this everyone just goes up in arms pitch forking.

 

Gosh, I'd say that would be everyone!

I gotta say I am all about cheap, effective, mods.

Dave

 

As I said, I replaced my BSH lower torque arm ($150 shipped to me) with a stock torque arm filled with polyurethane filler ($10), and the stock arm is by far the better of the two. The difference is incredible.

I'm going to start recommending this to every MINI owner with a turbo engine. A simple necessity in my eyes.

 

Wow... I totally meant to agree with the OP on the hot glue thing but damn I just came out sounding like a douche. Anyway........People can do whatever to their MINI. Hot glue is a little cheap considering urethane is not much more and a lil better. But if that is what you want go for it.



Though from the Spec V community before I joined the ranks of the MINIs there was more then one person that made solid mounts by taking out the rubber and welding medal p-lates on the ends of the mounts.

 

I agree with Porthos, I wouldn't go for hot glue, considering urethane filler costs so little.

 

Think I'll use the 3M Urethane also. I'll do it at the same time as my first oil change at 3,000 miles. Thanks to everyone for kicking this around. (I didn't like the hot glue idea either but figured it would get evryone to come up with something better) Thanks!

 

Could one of you experts please write up a quick DIY for this valuable, but inexpensive mod?

 

Although I have found the liquid polyurethane effective on past cars and have no problems with it, people interested in doing this should keep in mind it will require the car be inoperable for about 2 solid days.

If you cant afford to down the car your best route is the insert, since it works and is still fairly inexpensive.

The other option is to buy another mount and fill it, but the cost will exceed that of an insert.

 

Here are a couple of how to links on filling your motor mounts http://importnut.net/motormount.htm

http://www.mirage-performance.com/te...inemounts.html

 

Not if you do what I did and bake it. Couple hours at 220 deg F and it goes hard.

 

Thats what she said!

 

I was referring to the energy suspension type filler. They recommend it cure for around 2 days. I don't like the oven approach simply because I don't like putting things in my oven that could potentially stink up my house, but that's just personal preference. Same time though I know people that are perfeclty fine curing header paints in the oven so to each his own I guess.

 

lol

Oh I see, my bad.

But mine had absolutely zero smell. I've been in saunas that are 220 deg F, you won't have any burning. I used SikaFlex I think.

 

did this today - here's how it all went down.

had some Sika polyurethane bonding adhesive that cures into a flexible solid (think pencil eraser) that i brought home from work.

at 9:00am pulled the engine mount from the R56 using a 16mm socket.
at 9:10 dropped the mount into some hot water to get it warmed up.
at 9:15 started filling the cavity in the mount. (it's moisture cured so i cheated and spritzed some water before filling)
9:30 bagged the entire thing in a ziplock bag and dropped it back into a bucket of very hot water. (the ideal way to do this would be to steam it but i had time...)
12:00pm after emptying and filling the bucket a couple times to keep the temp up pulled the mount out of the ziplock and let it cool
3:00pm popped it back into the car and went for a test drive.

Here is what i noticed. Shifting it totally improved. Under throttle there is defiantly less engine rock and so i don't know if my linkage was binding or what but shifting feels different in a good way.

i can feel just a slight bit more vibration in the cabin. I had driven an R56 with the BSH mount and hated it. The entire car was shaking. What I feel is now to have a great blend of performance and comfort. less engine rock, better shifts, but no harsh vibration.

The polyurethane should totally cure up overnight so it should get just a slight bit more "stiff" in the morning (thats what she said) and i can't wait to take it for a ride (stop, you're killin' me)

If the ultimate goal is to reduce the play within the engine mount, this 'home brew' way really works and i can't justify spending $60 on something i can do myself for $10.

 

Did you use Sika Sikaflex 255?

Sika Sikaflex-255 FC Fast Cure One Part Polyurethane Adhesive Black
10.5 oz. Cartridge Part #: 0256243 - 91281
Description: Sikaflex-255 FC is a fast curing flexible high performance polyurethane adhesive for bonding glass to metal surfaces. 10.5 ounce.

Typical Use:Has excellent anti-sag properties, grab and holds glass, metal and wood in place while the material cures with ambient moisture. Offers high mechanical performance and has excellent resistance to weathering and aging.Color/Appearance:BlackKey Specifications:ISO 9001 / 14001Product Name: Sikaflex-255 FC Fast Cure One Part Polyurethane Adhesive Black 10.5OZ1 Or 2 Part: 1Base Chemistry: PolyurethaneService Temperature : -40°-194°FRt Tack Free Time: 30 minCure Time: 3/16 in per 24 hrsShear Strength Psi: 550-650Tensile Strength: 900Durometer/Hardness: Shore A 52-57Volume Resistivity: 1 x 107 WcmSpecific Gravity: 1.19Elongation: 400%Flash Point: 180 °F

 

it was sikaflex 1c sl

 

Do you think this will be benefitting to MINI 1st Gen too? :D