Drivetrain $550 to upgrade your K03 to K04 hybrid turbo...
#1
$550 to upgrade your K03 to K04 hybrid turbo...
If all the Audi guys are doing this, how come you don't hear much from the r56 crowd?! I was going to post my spare 20K mile K03 turbo today, but then realized I'd be crazy trying to sell it for $250.
http://gpopshop.com/services/turbo-upgrades
Stock K03 to K04 Conversion
And, futureal33's Hybrid K04 project...
http://www.minitorque.com/forum/f272...-project-3266/
http://gpopshop.com/services/turbo-upgrades
Stock K03 to K04 Conversion
- K03 to K04 conversion. Prices start at $550 and includes an upgraded K04 compressor wheel, and K04 bearing system.
And, futureal33's Hybrid K04 project...
http://www.minitorque.com/forum/f272...-project-3266/
#3
#4
I somewhat agree... I just find it a little silly that Alta is basically planning to do the same thing, but don't advertise it as a hybrid turbo when the rest of the turbo community refers to it as a K04 hybrid turbo. Isn't this basically the same thing? Maybe someone here can keep me honest, but is Alta planning to sell it for double the price for re-inventing the wheel? For some reason, I think it would be wiser to send it to a shop that has done this work before since the K03 is common on other cars as well.
Alta's highlights...
-ALTA Billet 56 Wheel
_____56mm exducer with 59.32mm extended tips.
_____43.3mm Inducer size.
_____Rated at 28lbs/min
K04-S4 compressor wheel
_____50mm exducer
_____39.77 inducer
_____Rated at 23lb-min
And here's GPops highlights...
Alta's highlights...
-ALTA Billet 56 Wheel
_____56mm exducer with 59.32mm extended tips.
_____43.3mm Inducer size.
_____Rated at 28lbs/min
K04-S4 compressor wheel
_____50mm exducer
_____39.77 inducer
_____Rated at 23lb-min
And here's GPops highlights...
- K03 to K04 conversion. Prices start at $550 and includes an upgraded K04 compressor wheel, and K04 bearing system.
#5
Nice. Please keep us updated. Unfortunately for me, my e28 project has a higher priority than my Mini for now...
#6
Hello Jaremy,
Thank you for your interest. Yes, we can rebuild these turbos and upgrade the compressor wheels for you. The price for a standard rebuild (a rebuild that does not require any hard parts: comp wheel, turbine shaft/wheel, or bearing housing) is $350.00 plus $25 return shipping. The additional price for the upgraded compressor wheel is $225.00. The first step in the rebuild is a full inspection. If any of the hard parts are found to be damaged at this point, we would give you a full quote for repairing/replacing parts.
Our turnaround time for standard rebuilds right now is +/-12 business days. If you would like to ship the turbo to us for this service, please enclose your contact information and send it to:
G-Pop Shop
22349 W War Eagle Rd
Springdale, AR 72764
We accept all major credit/debit cards, paypal, or postal money orders. If you would like to call us with any questions the number is 479-751-7966. If you decide to send your turbo to us we look forward to doing business with you. Let us know if you need anything else, thank you.
--
Jim & Gerry, G-Pop Shop
Specializing in rebuilt and new turbos,
turbo upgrades, turbo rebuild kits, and turbo parts
www.gpopshop.com
(479)-751-7966
Thank you for your interest. Yes, we can rebuild these turbos and upgrade the compressor wheels for you. The price for a standard rebuild (a rebuild that does not require any hard parts: comp wheel, turbine shaft/wheel, or bearing housing) is $350.00 plus $25 return shipping. The additional price for the upgraded compressor wheel is $225.00. The first step in the rebuild is a full inspection. If any of the hard parts are found to be damaged at this point, we would give you a full quote for repairing/replacing parts.
Our turnaround time for standard rebuilds right now is +/-12 business days. If you would like to ship the turbo to us for this service, please enclose your contact information and send it to:
G-Pop Shop
22349 W War Eagle Rd
Springdale, AR 72764
We accept all major credit/debit cards, paypal, or postal money orders. If you would like to call us with any questions the number is 479-751-7966. If you decide to send your turbo to us we look forward to doing business with you. Let us know if you need anything else, thank you.
--
Jim & Gerry, G-Pop Shop
Specializing in rebuilt and new turbos,
turbo upgrades, turbo rebuild kits, and turbo parts
www.gpopshop.com
(479)-751-7966
#7
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#8
^ have you ever been to the dyno thread?
There is definitely someone in there who did and has it done and runs it without issue.
The turbo people have problems with are the GT28RS.
There is definitely someone in there who did and has it done and runs it without issue.
The turbo people have problems with are the GT28RS.
Test Conditions
Temperature: 75°
Dew point: 38°
Pressure: 29.83 in.
Humidity: 59%
Philadelphia, Pa
Mustang Dyno (Helix's Heartbreaker)
Peak WHP: 248
Peak WTQ: 222
Modifications: all power/power delivery revalent mods: Alta 3in twin cat Turboback, Helix Step Intercooler, NM boost tubes and CAI, Hybrid K03/04 Turbo, WMW DV Upgrade, Alta AccessPORT ECU Tuner.
i highlighted the areas under the curve to show the difference between Stock map Stage 4 setup and mild 18-9 psi map tune. the setup is capable of 25psi but with regular MAP sensor i couldn't run that pressure, while not recorded a Hail Mary run at 23psi yielded a 278whp and 257wtq but there were some misfires in the run so i decided not to keep that run recorded since it was not a reliable map yet.
Temperature: 75°
Dew point: 38°
Pressure: 29.83 in.
Humidity: 59%
Philadelphia, Pa
Mustang Dyno (Helix's Heartbreaker)
Peak WHP: 248
Peak WTQ: 222
Modifications: all power/power delivery revalent mods: Alta 3in twin cat Turboback, Helix Step Intercooler, NM boost tubes and CAI, Hybrid K03/04 Turbo, WMW DV Upgrade, Alta AccessPORT ECU Tuner.
i highlighted the areas under the curve to show the difference between Stock map Stage 4 setup and mild 18-9 psi map tune. the setup is capable of 25psi but with regular MAP sensor i couldn't run that pressure, while not recorded a Hail Mary run at 23psi yielded a 278whp and 257wtq but there were some misfires in the run so i decided not to keep that run recorded since it was not a reliable map yet.
#9
#11
Seeing that if we got past the MAP sensor limit for 22psi, we saw 278 whp on a mustang dyno.. at a 12% loss, thats just over 310 hp. I've seen people calculate based on a 16% on our cars (which imo is high but regardless, we can use it just for a reference and the fact that a mustang dyno is indeed a heartbreaker dyno), puts us at 322hp. That doesn't leave much room for factor of safety. At that point we'll be maxing out stock injectors too. Then with our worthless HPFP, we need to make sure we're flowing enough fuel.
I'm all for modding our cars and testing the limits and trying things against the grain. I got into heated arguments about people shooting down fleabay FMIC cores and how this forum is full of people who just shut others down simply because its not sold by a vendor on the fourm. I had people tell me I was dumb for buying an eibach rsb instead of an h sport or alta or something sold by vendors on here. Yet I'd bet these people are the same ones who couldn't even explain how a sway bar works or point out that its a torsional spring for that matter. So please don't take my comment as trying to sht on the idea of going K04's. I'm all for it, and in fact (as i said, coming from the audi world), this was one of my first thoughts when I bought my mini back in 08. But seeing how weak many components in the car are now (As you said seeing so many pistons go under moderate tuning/modding levels), I feel if the pistons are being upgraded, its a good idea to do rods at the same time, especially if we'll be pushing the envelope further. Maybe its a K04 now, but next comes a BT down the road.
I'm all for modding our cars and testing the limits and trying things against the grain. I got into heated arguments about people shooting down fleabay FMIC cores and how this forum is full of people who just shut others down simply because its not sold by a vendor on the fourm. I had people tell me I was dumb for buying an eibach rsb instead of an h sport or alta or something sold by vendors on here. Yet I'd bet these people are the same ones who couldn't even explain how a sway bar works or point out that its a torsional spring for that matter. So please don't take my comment as trying to sht on the idea of going K04's. I'm all for it, and in fact (as i said, coming from the audi world), this was one of my first thoughts when I bought my mini back in 08. But seeing how weak many components in the car are now (As you said seeing so many pistons go under moderate tuning/modding levels), I feel if the pistons are being upgraded, its a good idea to do rods at the same time, especially if we'll be pushing the envelope further. Maybe its a K04 now, but next comes a BT down the road.
#12
#16
#17
all it is is a borg-warner k03 hot side, with a k04 cold side. All they do is take off the cold side housing and turbine and put k04 bearings, turbine and housing on it. It is a professional job requiring special tools and should not be attempted, but is very common in the tuning world. It allows a quicker spool for a larger turbo, but does limit total final output pressure, but since the k04 would exceed the limit of the r56 anyways, it doesn't matter as it wouldn't be able to be used to its full potential anyways.
the best, and largest example i know of this is the turbo I'm putting on a friends quatro TT. We had the motor built and will be running the turbo from a cummins turbo diesel on it. looks funky :P
this is obviously not the one going on the car, as ours is new, but you can see the size difference between the hot and cold sides.
the best, and largest example i know of this is the turbo I'm putting on a friends quatro TT. We had the motor built and will be running the turbo from a cummins turbo diesel on it. looks funky :P
this is obviously not the one going on the car, as ours is new, but you can see the size difference between the hot and cold sides.
#19
#20
Get some or all of the above wrong, and you'll spend your time wondering why your engine doesn't quite perform as you thought it should, after all, your only wanting to put in a set of injectors which hopefully will deliver more fuel, right ? What harm could it possibly do ?
And just when you think your on the right track to solving your issue, Oh no my engines developed a problem, it can't possibly be anything you've done!
Also whilst I'm on one, ever given thought to what happens to the OEM stock injector fuel spray pattern, when you increase the seemingly harmless, turbo boost pressure ?
Answers on a postcard.
#21
So what is your optimal setup and power output Czar? What are these cars capable of according to you? I definitely understand that these cars have their downfalls and trip-ups. I've been in the car scene for many years in MANY different cars so I'm not a noob but my 9-5 isn't spent in a garage. You definitely offer sage advice at times but, it seems to come with a bit of contempt in the air.
#22
I'm sorry if my posts come across with slight contempt, it's really not intentional, I just get frustrated with all the wrong information posted, and folks thinking it's so simple, when in reality making good reliable power is an art form, with a high degree of technical understanding needed, to understand what really goes on!
The optimal setup is leave well alone (factory stock) or be prepared to spend a good amount of $$$ and build a spare engine to the 1 you use in everyday commutes, and simply swap them over when you want to go racing!
Alternatively spend those hard earned $$$ on your 1 and only engine, but be prepared for it to be a little temperamental, needing regular maintenance, maybe even a complete rebuild (freshen up) each winter, the more power you have, the more temperamental and maintenance your engine will require!
These engines in stock form are designed to be light, economical yet deliver a reasonable amount of power, which can be used on the street all day long, they are also quite sensitive to changes with the charge air pressure, as some of you already know, to your cost!
The BIG question is, what can these engines withstand in tuned variations, utilising stock engine components ? and although I have more than 2 years of R&D on these engines, I truthfully cannot answer this question, the truth is nobody can, some might last years and only cover a few thousand miles, whilst some might only last a year or two, but cover many tens of thousands of miles!
I have most answers on individual components failure levels, that said, no two engines are or will ever be the same, so what might fail on one, may never fail at or on the same power level/time scale on another!
My street only engines are quite conservative, I never push more than 25% of the total factory output, this allows full use of all factory stock components!
On the other hand my street/track engines are treated to a full internal overall component replacement where necessary, this includes all crankshaft bearings, connecting rods, pistons/rings, etc etc, this allows for 25-40% power increase over the stock factory output.
As soon as anyone starts looking at 40% + power levels over factory stock, then I recommend you stop, purchase a spare engine and be prepared to spend BIG $$$ on a full bespoke built motor, this will need to include fuel, water and oil revisions, anything less and your asking for trouble and eventually tears.
The optimal setup is leave well alone (factory stock) or be prepared to spend a good amount of $$$ and build a spare engine to the 1 you use in everyday commutes, and simply swap them over when you want to go racing!
Alternatively spend those hard earned $$$ on your 1 and only engine, but be prepared for it to be a little temperamental, needing regular maintenance, maybe even a complete rebuild (freshen up) each winter, the more power you have, the more temperamental and maintenance your engine will require!
These engines in stock form are designed to be light, economical yet deliver a reasonable amount of power, which can be used on the street all day long, they are also quite sensitive to changes with the charge air pressure, as some of you already know, to your cost!
The BIG question is, what can these engines withstand in tuned variations, utilising stock engine components ? and although I have more than 2 years of R&D on these engines, I truthfully cannot answer this question, the truth is nobody can, some might last years and only cover a few thousand miles, whilst some might only last a year or two, but cover many tens of thousands of miles!
I have most answers on individual components failure levels, that said, no two engines are or will ever be the same, so what might fail on one, may never fail at or on the same power level/time scale on another!
My street only engines are quite conservative, I never push more than 25% of the total factory output, this allows full use of all factory stock components!
On the other hand my street/track engines are treated to a full internal overall component replacement where necessary, this includes all crankshaft bearings, connecting rods, pistons/rings, etc etc, this allows for 25-40% power increase over the stock factory output.
As soon as anyone starts looking at 40% + power levels over factory stock, then I recommend you stop, purchase a spare engine and be prepared to spend BIG $$$ on a full bespoke built motor, this will need to include fuel, water and oil revisions, anything less and your asking for trouble and eventually tears.
Last edited by czar; 07-27-2011 at 10:44 AM.
#23
I'm sorry if my posts come across with slight contempt, it's really not intentional, I just get frustrated with all the wrong information posted, and folks thinking it's so simple, when in reality making good reliable power is an art form, with a high degree of technical understanding needed to understand what really goes on!
The optimal setup is leave well alone (factory stock) or be prepared to spend a good amount of $$$ and build a spare engine to the 1 you use in everyday commutes, and simply swap them over when you want to go racing!
Having said that, you can use a performance built engine on the street, but, it will be tempremental, and don't expect good MPG when compared to factory stock MPG!
Back to work, I will edit and finish this soon
The optimal setup is leave well alone (factory stock) or be prepared to spend a good amount of $$$ and build a spare engine to the 1 you use in everyday commutes, and simply swap them over when you want to go racing!
Having said that, you can use a performance built engine on the street, but, it will be tempremental, and don't expect good MPG when compared to factory stock MPG!
Back to work, I will edit and finish this soon
Now, to say one cannot add larger wheels to his turbo and simply flow more air is not crazy either. Now, obviously this isnt a bolt on and would require some tuning for fuel/air/boost/timing and so on. but for the money i dont see it as something that cant be done. I think if more people were willing to take chances on things we would see more results.
Not to say that people havent tried things, I am just saying there is always room for improvement. I personally will be sending in my turbo most likely over the winter since itll be snowing anyways. I will then have it re-tuned for the modification.
#24
I wasnt expecting to go out and use Vag injectors, I was merely comparing the idea we are direct injection just as they are. It is not completely out there to think various injectors may swap over as in my turbo E30 i was able to run GM injectors out of a bonneville for my low boost setup.
Now, to say one cannot add larger wheels to his turbo and simply flow more air is not crazy either. Now, obviously this isnt a bolt on and would require some tuning for fuel/air/boost/timing and so on. but for the money i dont see it as something that cant be done. I think if more people were willing to take chances on things we would see more results.
Not to say that people havent tried things, I am just saying there is always room for improvement. I personally will be sending in my turbo most likely over the winter since itll be snowing anyways. I will then have it re-tuned for the modification.
Now, to say one cannot add larger wheels to his turbo and simply flow more air is not crazy either. Now, obviously this isnt a bolt on and would require some tuning for fuel/air/boost/timing and so on. but for the money i dont see it as something that cant be done. I think if more people were willing to take chances on things we would see more results.
Not to say that people havent tried things, I am just saying there is always room for improvement. I personally will be sending in my turbo most likely over the winter since itll be snowing anyways. I will then have it re-tuned for the modification.
Your idea of looking for an alternative fuel injector from another car manufacturer, is not a bad idea, however although in your example of fitting a GM fuel injector into your BMW E30 it was a straight swap, did you check the spray angle between the 2 ? To see if they were the same ?
Because a slight difference in spray angle, fuel distribution shape, and fitment angle, effects the combustion flame, cylinder pressure and firing temp position on the piston crown, I am asked about, I also hear and see so many engine failures, all pointing to the same failing issue (detonation issues) and lots of them I am asked about, hear or see, have fitted different fuel injectors, increased boost (turbo/supercharger) increased compression ratio etc etc, without giving any thought to what happens inside the cylinder to the poor old/tired piston!
Just because 1 style of fuel injector maybe used by a few car manufacturers for their particular engine, does not mean it has the same fitment angle, spray angle, fuel distribution shape or ohms impedance!
Each different engine that shares that 1 particular style fuel injector, will have different characteristics, compression ratio, fuel delivery flow, fitment angle, spray angle, fuel distribution shape, piston crown shape, cylinder head quench bowl design, valve size, valve quantity, spark plug location, and finally cylinder firing temperatures.
Always check the fitment angle, spray angle and fuel distribution shape, of any chosen fuel injector before fitting to any engine.
#25
I completely agree with everything you have said above.
For the E30, yes the Bosch 21lb or 24.5lb (cant remember exact size at the moment) injectors found in the Bonneville were the same as the ones found in the E30, size, spray pattern, etc were all the same.
But being were are talking 20 yr old cars, things were much simpler in the injection world haha.
It would be interesting to compare the injectors to see the differences between the Vag and the BMW ones.
For the E30, yes the Bosch 21lb or 24.5lb (cant remember exact size at the moment) injectors found in the Bonneville were the same as the ones found in the E30, size, spray pattern, etc were all the same.
But being were are talking 20 yr old cars, things were much simpler in the injection world haha.
It would be interesting to compare the injectors to see the differences between the Vag and the BMW ones.