Sorry sir, but I beg to differ here. The Sprintex and ByteTroniK go hand in hand here. You buy the Sprintex and your stuck with the ByteTroniK. So both can be discusse here!!

If you guys weren't all against said tuner you would probably have your question answered by a professional. Who would want to help you now??? Why don't you ask Mynes to help you, i'm sure they will try to flog you something for it. Unfortunately karma has comeback to you here

 

You apperently missed my last post, "The Sprintex kit as is, from the mfg, with the 70mm pulley requires NO tuning.". The ByeTronik or "Tuner of your choice" is only required with the 64mm pulley "modification". The only reason we used The ByeTronik is because we already had it installed, and it allowed us to do it ourselves instead of going to a tuner immediately after doing the pulley mod. And yes you could order all the parts from Boostech, or any distributer who handles the product, and use your own tuner. You wouldn't have to involve Mynes at all if you didn't want to, we just chose to do so. Or you could just buy the kit & leave it alone.

Ask Randy, you don't think they let him make any adjustments for the CARB test vehicle.

 

Sounds like if you buy the Sprintex you just install it as it comes ( 70mm pulley ) leave it alone and hope for the best, while waiting for more guinea pigs to show up...
Will gain some HP ( don't remember what they are claiming ) as you should with the $3000 or so price tag or you could have your stock SC rebuilt for $500-700 and have money left over for cam,header,tune and no worries...

 

As for price comparison: Head, header, cam, 450 injectors, flash tool, remote tune on a dyno, and continuos tune support. Making 245 HP, reliably, at the wheel, with a torque curve to die for. Wasn't cheap--but when you subtract what I got for the replaced parts came out to about 3600 bucks for parts/tune, another thousand for labor/dyno time. There are many different ways to skin this cat, all of them are going to pricey.

Sprintex at 3100 (without the labor to install it, don't know how much it would cost to have someone install), without tune, which at this point would make me nervous. With tune, you're talking about buying the Bytetronic software, and if Myne's is tuning it, we're getting close to the cost of the package I have. It's personal preference, but I'd rather have a BVH, Cam, Header, injector combo, with essentially unlimited tunes by a tuner that knows what he's doing, then the Sprintex package, with or without the Bytetronic setup, knowing I'm going to have to pay extra for tunes if I chose so, or perhaps blow my engine if I try it myself.

There are many options to make power, some more expensive than others, some more reliable than others, and some with better support than others. It's good to have choices.

 

Ok guys, lets see if I've got all the various combinations and situations -

Sprintex with 70mm pulley on stock engine performs well with no issues.
True or false.

Sprintex with smaller pulley(pick your poison) on stock engine performs
well with no issues. True of false

Sprintex with 70mm pulley on highly modified engine w/o tune performs
well with few or no issues. True or false

Sprintex with smaller pulley on highly modified engine with mild tune
performs well with few or no issues. True or false

Sprintex, regardless of pulley size, on highly modified engine with
custom tune has issues. True or false

It looks to me the Sprintex when used as designed - added to stock or mildly modified engine - works without problems. Problems occur when the Sprintex is used on engines that are already highly modified with parts or custom tune or both. Doesn't look like the problem is with the Sprintex kit, but with the manner in which it is used.
Correct me if I am wrong or missing something - I'm sure someone will.

Kevin

 

(Just re-read the above post, so I edited this)
So Far
The kit has been ok on stock & modified engines when left stock w/ the 70mm pulley
The only issues thus far has been when using the smaller 64mm pulley no matter what the mods, and also I personally don't know how many people are using the 64 or 60mm pulley that are working fine but I do know there are some, their just not here on NAM.

And this isn't cheap as a "performance" mod, depending on a persons current mods it falls as avg. or below avg. as far as bang for your buck. But let's be honest except for a few people, who actually has changed their S/C simply for performance?
Realisticly most people wouldn't even look at this unless it was time to change their S/C anyway, so with that in mind your probably looking at an extra $2200.00. (taking labor off the table simply because the labor in either job would be close to the same, and I'm figuring an avg. of $1000.00 for an M45 & W/P, simply because if you need an S/C you prob. either need or should replace the W/P)
So if you figure $100.00 per H/P that means you would need to gain 22hp to make it avg. out, the claims say yes, but honestly we all know that claims are just that, not facts, when I'm done I'll see if it worked out for me or not.

In my case though it was different:

1st. My S/C, W/P and Idler were all original, to replace the M45 (and pulley, still on the JCW),W/P, and Idler, prob. $1200.00.

2nd. I've already done all those other things.

So if I gain 20hp I'm pretty much right in the avg., but at my level of mod's, besides NOS, W/M (which I can still do later) where am I even going to gain 10hp without spending more than $2000.00.

 

That is correct with regards to our CARB test vehicle . No mods other than the Sprintex kit by itself . Daily driven , no issues and a noticeable
boost in power .

Randy
M7 tuning

 

You tell me how this is good on a stock engine and I will buy one today. This is a stock tune with the sprintex installed. You tell me how a AFR like that is safe while you are in boost. Don't feed me the well if its not knocking it must be safe ******** either. There is a lot more to a tune then knock. With the AFRs that high the EGT's are through the roof. 1600+ easy. If you don't think that will melt a piston or a valve or both you must be drinking from your own batch of koolaid. Its fine if you want to sell the charger. Just don't make people lose a motor. This is no way safe on a motor with a stock tune PERIOD. END OF STORY.

 

All I am saying is that the car has been running fine for over a month as a daily driver as it sits as per CARB regulations. I know it doesn't jibe with your theories but the proof is in the driveway.

Randy
M7 tuning

 

They are not my theories they are the rules of tuning. I have taken classes on this stuff, AEM and Motec. I would say freak of nature then. There is not anyways in the world that with those AFR's in boost that thing should still be running at max power. How hard are you on it? Does it see redline pulls 5-8 times a day? Have you driven it through any canyon runs?

 

I am not the driver of the car so I can not provide that info . All I have for you is that it is running fine and has had some "spirited " drives. If what you say is true than perhaps the dyno chart you are referring to is not indicative of what our test car is actually doing. On one hand you claim it will not last but the car is doing nicely so something is not correct. Come on down and drive the " freak of nature " if you like . Thanks for your interest

Randy
M7 tuning

 

I don't need to ride in it. My car has enough power to spin up the Z1 star specs with a LSD in first gear from a roll with the M45.

It is just the plot that I have. I pulled it off the boostec site. Take the mini you have the Sprint installed on put it on a dyno and see what the AFR is and what kind of power its putting out. I would love to see that. At least back up this stuff. Show proof that something that changes the VE of the motor is not affecting the tune or motor in anyway.

I have no interest in the charger. My interest is saving people from blowing up there motors. That chart right there is going to lead to a blown motor. I never said it was going to end the motors life instantly. It will shorten it then end it.

If your test car is not running like that I would love to see the proof and I would shut up. I just don't see it. I see like you are trying to make money and not take care of your customer. Saying this is safe and all that. You have only tested it for a MONTH on a stock car. At least put some R&D behind it and test it for at least 6 months HARD. That includes track days, and lots of canyon runs, lots of runs up to redline all that good stuff.That way you can sell with confidence and know that what you sold somebody didn't lead to the failure of their engine, unless they went to the smaller pulley.

 

There is no need for you to " shut up " as you put it. We appreciate you keeping the topic going. I checked in at the office and my info was not spot on as they car in question has been in the test process closer to two months not the one I quoted. Mind you this is our test vehicle but others have been on the road for several months and many more miles.
The car was originally run on a dyno as a baseline for the CARB certification and if the numbers had been similar to the graph you found we would not be driving the car

Thanks for the interest

Randy
M7 Tuning

 

Again not interested in the Sprintrex My M45 powered Mini would run circles around any mini that is powered by it. Just want to make sure people are getting a power increase not a motor destroyer.

Post up the graph...post up the AFR's. Would love to see it after seeing the graph on the boostec site.

 

Well there are a lot of fast cars , on the Internet I am sure that when the CARB tests are done a complete report will be published .

Thanks again,

Randy
M7 Tuning

 

HAHA. Yes there are lots of fast cars on the internet. Mine is also fast in real life. So is my EVO. Have the time slips and DYNO to back up the EVO. Have the DYNO to back up the Mini. Ill post those any time anybody wants to see it. Unlike you who wont post anything. Post a dyno of any car you have tuned or installed the sprintex on then, that way you cant keep saying CARB this CARB that. I want to see hard rock solid proof. Anybody buy this should want to see hard rock solid proof. I would love to see a plot including AFR from any car that you installed it on.

 

Just a reminder: let's keep it respectful and productive here. This is a great thread with some fantastic discussion. There's no need to be tossing insults and profanity into it.

 

If what you are after is dyno graphs, give it a couple weeks. There are 2 more owners doing installs in this timeframe. One in Europe, and one here in the US.

As far as your statement of your car running circles around any Sprintex car, are you sure you want to be saying things like that when you have NO proof of what theese are capable of? Maby you shuld refer to post #1 and tell me your MINI can beat those times.
If you want to go EVO on EVO come on out to Denver, I've got one for you. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQxar...eature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1a7oE...eature=related

 

Lets not get into the "numbers game again" . It just get everyone all crazy.

As good as those numbers are from Paul you can't use them to compare against anything. That car is a gutted race car thats been prepped over the years to just run the 1/4" and I believe they were using the $2K 1320 stand alone.

Funny thing about that car and the sprintex is they stopped posting updates on it long ago. After that run they had plans to add more parts like a cam and head but never did? Or at least they havn't talked about it. Hell they have dyno and never posted up any numbers?

LB

 

Nope, not a word I've seen anyway..... Lot's of chatter, then..........nothing.

 

Sorry LB, but he said anything with a Sprintex. (of course the origanal spelling was more like Rotrex than Sprintex.) Anyway I'm done with it.

As for the 1320 Sprintex car, they are running their standalone (prooving there is NO ByteTroniK nessicary) and even with the car stripped It weighs 2500lbs, which if I where to get my 160lb body out of the car when it was on the scale, we are about even. They did post some new pics on their blog last month, and have been working with CAT CAMS on multiple projects for the R53 ans R56.

Their pic wont post, so you will need to switch sites for a second.

My car's weight with me in it.

 

Wow really you are going to come at me with Brians car. You don't even own it. I love when people try to race other peoples cars. Brian is a very nice guy. So ill leave it at that.

Im converting a video right now to post up. I ran 15.38 at 113mph with a 2.8 60ft at 4400ft of elevation. This was in GRAND JUNCTION. This was with a LSD and star specs. The best I could cut was a 2.8...if I would have cut like a 1.8 or so it would have been a different story. Also this was with a M45. So the ET sucks but the MPH is 12 second ET. I don't race like that. I drive a 15 second car that is all.

 

From the looks of the graph, this mini probably has some serious tip-in detonation. Relying on the knock sensor to keep this under control is a recipe for disaster.

 

Finally somebody gets it. Thanks ATXZJ

 

to a degree yes

I do have some experience with dyno tuning and software (a decade ago) and feel that the S/C is really not the issue here. If the discharge temps are low and it's not spitting metal down the motor then the problem lies elsewhere. Sounds like tuning the mini is the issue. That would keep me away from seriously modding one alone, well that and the fact that its FWD.