Drivetrain What about just a pulley kit?
What about just a pulley kit?
I wonder if there are people out there that just do the 15% pulley kit and call it good?
I read and read and read that the pulley is the best bang for your buck.
I like the way the car sounds, at this point I just want some more low end get up and go. The pulley seems like it opens the door to let the mod drug in , according to all the signatures on this forum that I read.
The thread I just saw seems to conclude by those who know, that it would be safe to stop there.
I put together a 3 step list. Seems like the practical/cheap side in me would agree to stop at 1. when I look at the cost of the rest of the stuff .
Does anyone feel like they wasted money on any of this stuff on my to do list?
Thoughts?
1. Pulley , plugs and belt kit from WAY motorworks installed $500
2. JCW intake, JCW exhaust, 380 JCW injectors and the JCW software $2200 installed
3. Koni FSD ,M7 USS, and 19mm rear sway bar
$1200
I read and read and read that the pulley is the best bang for your buck.
I like the way the car sounds, at this point I just want some more low end get up and go. The pulley seems like it opens the door to let the mod drug in , according to all the signatures on this forum that I read.
The thread I just saw seems to conclude by those who know, that it would be safe to stop there.
I put together a 3 step list. Seems like the practical/cheap side in me would agree to stop at 1. when I look at the cost of the rest of the stuff .
Does anyone feel like they wasted money on any of this stuff on my to do list?
Thoughts?
1. Pulley , plugs and belt kit from WAY motorworks installed $500
2. JCW intake, JCW exhaust, 380 JCW injectors and the JCW software $2200 installed
3. Koni FSD ,M7 USS, and 19mm rear sway bar
$1200
Skip out on part of #3, IMHO the TSW (Now WAY MOTOR WORKS) X-brace is a far better option, easyer to install (20 min max) and stiffens the front up better than a ladder bar brace like the M7. Not nocking on M7's pice just feel there are better options, Peter knows I like his stuff, I have some of his finest on my car.
Other than that, it's a good basic list that will add some
's.
Other than that, it's a good basic list that will add some
's.
Definitely do the pulley, I just did mine and I love it. If your car is a daily driver/weekend toy, go for the 17%, if you drive it hard, the 15% would be a good choice.
Definitely look at other options than JCW parts, personally I'm going to go with the Craven air intake and most likely the Invidia N1 exhaust, I've heard it in person and it's really smooth but sporty at the same time. My understanding on injectors is that the stock setup is fine if you're just doing a pulley, CAI and exhaust. If you plan on doing more (header, cam, etc) then you want to look at bigger injectors.
Good advise from Dicks on the under strut system, look at all the options, read reviews, etc.
Definitely look at other options than JCW parts, personally I'm going to go with the Craven air intake and most likely the Invidia N1 exhaust, I've heard it in person and it's really smooth but sporty at the same time. My understanding on injectors is that the stock setup is fine if you're just doing a pulley, CAI and exhaust. If you plan on doing more (header, cam, etc) then you want to look at bigger injectors.
Good advise from Dicks on the under strut system, look at all the options, read reviews, etc.
My plans for my Mini were:
15% reduction pulley (completed)
1-ball exhaust mod (completed)
intake (probably DDM)
injectors w/ tune
and then suspension components as I saw fit. Start with springs and struts before a sway bar. Sway bars are meant to fine tune a setup you're working on. Stock suspension != working on anything
15% reduction pulley (completed)
1-ball exhaust mod (completed)
intake (probably DDM)
injectors w/ tune
and then suspension components as I saw fit. Start with springs and struts before a sway bar. Sway bars are meant to fine tune a setup you're working on. Stock suspension != working on anything
It won't hurt a thing to do just the pulley kit, you'll love it. I've done alot of cars that people just got the pulley and no intake or exhaust, and it still makes the biggest improvement.
As for your other plans not bad, but like it was mentioned check out the TSW X brace, it is the best bracing system available.
As for your other plans not bad, but like it was mentioned check out the TSW X brace, it is the best bracing system available.
Pulley - Stock Exhaust
That's what I did. Didn't want louder. Stock exhaust sounds great and I only left about 5 to maybe 10 HP on the table, and then only at higher RPM which I don't spend much time at. Car is perfect now. Pulls like a train up to redline from 1,800 RPM. Don't waste your money unless you want to pay for more noise. With more noise, maybe the driver is impressed, but nobody else is.
I did have the Evotech ECU tune, and now get smoother power than stock, plus same or better mileage.
I did have the Evotech ECU tune, and now get smoother power than stock, plus same or better mileage.
Trending Topics
This is perfect timing. I am planning to have a pulley, NGK plugs, and a tune by Mynes Performance in 3 weeks. I am a little tight on funds and I may have to put off the tune for 6 months at the most. I take it there are no issues with getting just pulley and plugs without a tune. I already have GP IC, JCW CAI, and Cat-Back exhaust. A few people (non-MINI owners) told me I must have a tune.
Tune After Pulley
I'm fairly new to all this, but have read a lot of sites on this subject, plus have listened and have come to trust the advice of George at Mini-Madness.
Without a tune, the car will run fine but after a while, performance will eventually deteriorate, suffer, or something like that. A tune, whether with dyno, or canned (based on your mods) will maximize the value of your mods in terms of more HP and better performance throughout the range.
My own position is, do it right the first time.
Without a tune, the car will run fine but after a while, performance will eventually deteriorate, suffer, or something like that. A tune, whether with dyno, or canned (based on your mods) will maximize the value of your mods in terms of more HP and better performance throughout the range.
My own position is, do it right the first time.
Your list
For suspension and body integrity (2006 Cabrio) I did the following.
1. Koni FSD
2. 22mm sway bar set 3rd (softest - 234% of stock) setting.
3. Tower bar.
4. Bottom (trapezoid) brace.
5. Tower plates (under - not over the tower) to prevent mushrooming.
I read many blogs about the Koni FSD that say how wonderful they are. My experience is the same - best money I ever spent. The whole car feels it has integrity, great handling, and doesn't "crash" on the potholes and patchy winter-scarred pavement because of the way the FSD shocks work. There is virtually no cowl shake even on the roughest roads due to the tower and bottom braces working together.
1. Koni FSD
2. 22mm sway bar set 3rd (softest - 234% of stock) setting.
3. Tower bar.
4. Bottom (trapezoid) brace.
5. Tower plates (under - not over the tower) to prevent mushrooming.
I read many blogs about the Koni FSD that say how wonderful they are. My experience is the same - best money I ever spent. The whole car feels it has integrity, great handling, and doesn't "crash" on the potholes and patchy winter-scarred pavement because of the way the FSD shocks work. There is virtually no cowl shake even on the roughest roads due to the tower and bottom braces working together.
I'm fairly new to all this, but have read a lot of sites on this subject, plus have listened and have come to trust the advice of George at Mini-Madness.
Without a tune, the car will run fine but after a while, performance will eventually deteriorate, suffer, or something like that. A tune, whether with dyno, or canned (based on your mods) will maximize the value of your mods in terms of more HP and better performance throughout the range.
My own position is, do it right the first time.
Without a tune, the car will run fine but after a while, performance will eventually deteriorate, suffer, or something like that. A tune, whether with dyno, or canned (based on your mods) will maximize the value of your mods in terms of more HP and better performance throughout the range.
My own position is, do it right the first time.
Last edited by Checkmate_2006; Mar 3, 2011 at 06:34 AM.
Pulley with Tune
Two tanks (760 miles) since pulley and Evotech tune - stock exhaust. Got 30 MPG on freeway and 27 local driving - same as before. The difference is lot more power and fun while getting same mileage.
Exhaust Pipes are not building as much carbon at the ends as before the mod. Glad I got the tune - the motor runs more efficiently than before, not too lean and not too rich.
Exhaust Pipes are not building as much carbon at the ends as before the mod. Glad I got the tune - the motor runs more efficiently than before, not too lean and not too rich.
To that end, I've done 1) above and like the extra uumph.
In terms of 2), I've opened up my stock intake a bit, plan on doing the one ball, and adding JCW injectors/tune. I'm open to one of the quieter intakes and exhaust, but only if they come to me at a good price. This area of improvement isn't a priority to me ($$ wise anyway) and I'm doing what I can with the stock bits to make them work as best they can (e.g. maximizing intercooler/hood scoop function, trying the VGS, etc.).
3) Suspension is a bigger spending priority to me than 2) above. In addition to the listed items, I've already gone to a lighter wheel/tire setup that shed over 11 lbs. per corner. The konis & sway bar will be next for me...
I've also got an item 4), which is cabin comfort. I need some sound/vibration attenuation added since the TSW motor mount did a number on the level of transmitted vibration into the cabin space.
Cheers,
--Rich
Thanks all, for the great advice.
The dealers make it seem like there is only one way to go and its nice to hear there are lots of " right " ways to modify it to suit. And that I probably won't wreck it.
Most dealers will tell you just about anything to keep from a) voiding any remaining warranty, b) or to get them to do the work so they can charge you double.
I trust friends with the same car and forums like this, more than I'll ever trust a dealer.
I trust friends with the same car and forums like this, more than I'll ever trust a dealer.
Also, get the TSW x-brace instead of the M7 USS.
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