I just installed the B&M kit and it took me 7.5 hours. I was painstakenly careful with all the post of how hard it was and that some had broken parts. I did it and am proud to have done it. What helped alot was using a crowbar. I used a "wonderbar". You can find it at your local hardware store. I also recommend using some other piece of metal, in this case a pedal wrench used on bicycles as a place to destibute the forces. It was great in taking the retainer clips off of the shifter cable housings. Another trick I found was to use 2 flatheads to leverage against one another to take off the left/right cable ball socket.

Another note: You only need to take off the middele heatshield. It comes off to access the shifter housing.

The hardest part was taking the retainer ring off the ball. The trick to have another person to hold the shifter while you take a couple of flatheads to pry the ring off the ball.


Best advice: Take your time, do not pry to hard on anything and have someone help.

The next step is to decide on getting a Whalen Shift MAchine to top off this install.

Hope this helps,
Carl

 

Thanks for the info! I really want to do this mod after feeling how short the shifts are in Peter's Venom'd M7 mini.

 

The BM is a great upgrade.

Really it is an install that most people can do as long as they take tere time, and think about the material that they are working on. Like the plastic retainer. t onl plastic, so you don't want to push too hard, and if something doesn't want o go in, tak a step back, and think about what you are trying to d, and see if there is a better way to do it.

Enjoy your shifter, I love mine, and I commute daily with it.

Thanks
Dan
Pilo Racing

 

Question on the retaining ring breakage issue. Doesn't the retaining ring have two holes to access with special pliers for removal or is it without holes?

 

7.5 hours? Damn, I was hoping to get it done in under 3 next weekend?

 

>>7.5 hours? Damn, I was hoping to get it done in under 3 next weekend?

Three hours should be plenty... I think I spent less than that installing the Short Shift kit and the Borla Exhaust. Of course I did break the retaining ring.. But, I had to do the entire assembly again when I got the new Retaining ring and it took me about 45 minutes. Jack the car, remove exhaust tube, remove heat shield disconnect cables, remove Shift Assembly replace parts and reassemble.

Just like racing, go as fast as you feel comfortable without breaking anything....

 

I was really carefull with all the warnings I read in the forum. I am pretty meticulous about my stuff. Perfection equals less hassle in the long run when it comes to installs.

Note: I am planning on making my own shift **** that will have the feel of a Whalen. I am going to have a 2 and 5/16 inch stainless ball hitch machined so I can screw it one the new shifter.

 

I previewed the B&M installation instructions at http://outmotoring.com/how_to/bm%20s...rtshiftkit.pdf courtesy of OutMotoring against the multiple threads on installation issues.

To make it easy, is the form number 9500776-02 an updated revision with corrections?

If not, at what step numbers 1 thru 32 should we update?

At what step is the retaining ring that is prone to breaking referenced?

Thanks as this is my next mod.
SMKKVK

 

How involved is the removal of the shift arm only? I have decided my "short shift" solution can be accomplished by simply shortening the **** arm. I plan to re-cut **** notch on a bench rather than in the car.

 

How involved is the removal of the shift arm only? I have decided my "short shift" solution can be accomplished by simply shortening the shift arm. I plan to re-cut **** notch on a bench rather than in the car.

 

To take the shift stick out of the car, you have to unbolt the exhaust back of the cat and move it out of the way. Then remove the middle heatshield. Then decupple the shift cables and clips and then unscrew the shift assembly. I would go to the B&M website and print out their instructions even though it might be slightly flawed. But at least you can see what you are getting into.

Hope this helps,
Carl

 

SMK,
The trick is to not attempt to remove or reinstall the retaining ring unless you have the entire shift assembly out of the car. The problem is that the cables need to be off the shift rod to make this work. The hardest part of the install was to remove the ring off of the stock shifter ball. It was helpful to have someone hold the stick while you take a couple for flatheads and carefully pry the ring the off from under the assembly.

Hope this helps. PM me if you need more help.

 

Is it possbile to install the SS using ramps insead of a jack? I'm assuming there will still be enough clearance, but just want to check. Thanks

-Storer

 

Possible, but you need to have as much room underneath to make this install. I would suggest buying or burrowing a set of jackstands and a jack. A 2 ton jack and four stands ran me only 24 bucks at Meijer or Walmart. They are really cheap and worth having.

 

 

>>I just installed the B&M kit and it took me 7.5 hours. >>

>>
>>Hope this helps,
>>Carl
>>
>>



7.5 hours !!!! What did you do forge the steel yourself?? Did mine in just over an hour. Guess you were careful. Works good huh. I love mine and think they should really consider using something simular during production.

_________________
Everglades MINI Cooper"S" 2002-203HP

 

So utterly pissed... got the exhaust support off fine. Go to remove the bolts from the center pipe, and lovely! Totally coroded. My MINI was in an accident last year, and it seems as though when they replaced the exhaust, they didn't use stainless bolts. WD-40 didn't even touch it, so I've been hacking away at it with my dad's new Dremel, which I got for him for XMas, and the grinders that came with it are snapping too easily. Going to Home Depot to see if they have anything more durable, or any suggestions... speaking of which, anybody want to fire some ideas at me? Other than taking it somewhere... Thanks

-Chris

 

use heat to expand the bolt first like a plumbers torch or one of those mini torch'es from Weller...wd is a lubricant and water displacer.. not a " de-freezer" of bolts.... you'll need a " penetrating oil" like P7 http://www.polywater.com/typep7.html or any other brand.... then pick up a screw extractor kit ( they work on bolts too ) and follow the instuctions....good luck

 

Thanks, Cirque, but my dad and I persevered... ending up drilling out the bilt with a high-speed bit, using a cold chisel to cut off the end of the bolt, and a little polishing up with the Dremel, before installing the new bolt. Tightened up nicely...

Did I mention how friggin awesome the B&M SS is? Wow, what a feel! I don't know what mod I like better, that or the pulley?! Its just that good!