Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Estimated hp based on mods?

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Old Dec 24, 2003 | 03:30 PM
  #1  
efcmini's Avatar
efcmini
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Any educated guestimates of my current hp based on the mods listed below. I know it's screaming now and sounds excellent, but about how many horses are pulling me?

Thanks,

Ken
ps I know my Union Jack sunroof gained me about 10 on it's own, and there's not enough room to list my UJ valve stems on my wheels.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2003 | 03:41 PM
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somewhere in the high 180 to mid-190hp range at the wheels depending on temp and type of dyno. Nice mods
 
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Old Dec 25, 2003 | 11:57 AM
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I'd probably say about 185 to the wheels, You don't have any software yet right?

Thanks
Dan
Pilo Racing
 
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Old Dec 25, 2003 | 12:27 PM
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minihune
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>>I'd probably say about 185 to the wheels, You don't have any software yet right?

I'd say that 185 WHP is a good estimate (you didn't mention which intake). Note that every MCS is different for stock HP.
185 is more than enough to get you going anywhere. And there is still the ECU/throttlebody/larger intercooler.
(Not to give you ideas)
 
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Old Dec 25, 2003 | 02:01 PM
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efcmini
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Nope, no software yet, Dan. Still undecided on which way to go on that. I've read everybody's reviews and I'm still thinking.

Minuhune: Actually I do say which intake but you have to know how to decipher that sig. They only allow 255 characters so I'm improvising. It all has to do with which hyphen it follows.

Thanks for the input guys. I'll go on the assumption it's 185'ish.

I hope you are having yourselves a "Merry Mini Christmas"!! I'm into my 4th bottle of the sparkly stuff and it's looking like a long night.

Ken
 
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Old Dec 25, 2003 | 02:59 PM
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>> Actually I do say which intake but you have to know how to decipher that sig.

Why not Viper intake? How many true fulley closed cold air intakes are there? BMP will argue theirs is a cold air intake-it's closed, but so is a stock intake with aftermarket drop in filter.



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Old Dec 25, 2003 | 04:03 PM
  #7  
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>>Nope, no software yet, Dan. Still undecided on which way to go on that. I've read everybody's reviews and I'm still thinking.


I'm going to make a dive into software soon as I got some Custom parts coming. I need to get the software in to maximise the potential of these mods.

I will let you know once I decide which I get.

Later!
Dan
Pilo Racing... Enjoy the Bubblies :smile:
 
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Old Dec 25, 2003 | 04:39 PM
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I estimate 175-180wHP

However, why estimate when you can go to the chassis dyno and find out for sure?
 
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Old Dec 25, 2003 | 06:35 PM
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I think that the numbers Eric gave me for a 15% pulley, intake and exhaust were 173-178 whp on his dyno.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2003 | 09:17 PM
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170's WHP, maybe 190-195 crank HP. I've seen the Magnaflow only make 5HP with a pulley and some headers make ZERO horses. So you never know until you dyno (and even then you're still not positive). Try the 1/4 mile. :smile:
 
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Old Dec 26, 2003 | 12:03 PM
  #11  
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It depends upon what kind of dyno you test your car on. A brake dyno (measures BHP) gives variable loads to the drive wheels as they are being tested. Because it can simulate real road conditions like hills and wind resistance, is shows a more realistic road horsepower figure. That's why you see manufacturers and high-end tuners quote BHP numbers. Unfortunately for those who like to see big numbers, the brake dynos show less wild numbers than the intertia type dynos, so you have to be careful when comparing brake numbers to intertia numbers. Our Mustang MD 250 is a brake dyno, but we can also set it to act as an inertia dyno. The difference is remarkable. Here are some typical numbers that we see on our dyno.

Bone stock Brake: 143-145 whp

Typhoon intake, 15% Pulley, Borla Sport in Brake mode: 166-168 whp

Typhoon intake, 15% Pulley, Borla Sport in Inertia mode: 173-178 whp

Typhoon intake, 15% Pulley, Borla Sport in Inertia mode with the vehicle equivalency constant changed*: 215 whp.

*You're saying huh? Yup. On an inertia dyno, the computer determines torque by calculating how fast a car can accelerate vehicle rollers of a known rate. That weight can be changed with a click of the mouse AND NEVER BE NOTICED BY ANYONE EXCEPT THE DYNO OPERATOR. That's why our 168 bhp stage one kit is faster than the JCW 200hp kit.

So if you go into your friendly local Dynojet shop, you may be getting bogus numbers without even knowing it. Look, they're motivated to have happy customers, and are glad to show power increases for new parts tested.

The other variable is how these cars are being dynoed. We have done more than 500 MINI dyno runs in the last 10 months: probably more than anybody except MINI. I have to admit that we didn't know how to dyno these cars realistically at first. Over time we have learned how to get the most road realistic testing environment. There are dyno shops out there that are very good and have experience with MINIs. Find them if you need to get a raw number. All of this windbaggin' is to say:

Beware of dynos as a sales tool. When you see a kit advertised as giving 200, 210 or 220hp, caveat emptor.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2003 | 01:53 PM
  #12  
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With a 15% pulley, Madness intake, Supersprint header, Magnaflow exhaust...I pulled 187.5 whp.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2003 | 02:16 PM
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Helix13,

Thanks for the dyno type explanation and reality check. We often think that dyno numbers are objective and our driving impressions are subjective. But the dyno numbers like statistics can be manipulated to get desired results.
Look for comparisons of similar products done by an independent source all done on the same MINI and using the same dyno with controlled conditions and dyno settings. Comparing numbers from one source with numbers from elsewhere is difficult to interpret.

>>Bone stock Brake: 143-145 whp
>>
>>Typhoon intake, 15% Pulley, Borla Sport in Brake mode: 166-168 whp
>>
>>Typhoon intake, 15% Pulley, Borla Sport in Inertia mode: 173-178 whp
>>
>>Typhoon intake, 15% Pulley, Borla Sport in Inertia mode with the vehicle equivalency constant changed*: 215 whp.

The other way to check how you are doing are lap times on the track. Record a time. Make an upgrade. Record a better time given the same conditions and track.

>>Over time we have learned how to get the most road realistic testing environment. There are dyno shops out there that are very good and have experience with MINIs. Find them if you need to get a raw number. All of this windbaggin' is to say:
>>Beware of dynos as a sales tool. When you see a kit advertised as giving 200, 210 or 220hp, caveat emptor.

Thanks. This helps.
Any estimate on the 17% pulley difference compared to the 15%?

 
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