This is what I would do also. Just be prepaired for some oil to splatter. Worth the smoke to do it though.

 

Okay. Relax. Everything's going to be okay. First of all, a functioning chain tensioner will release itself when you start the car--no need to mess with the guide and risk breaking the plastic runner. Once in a while--read rarely--a tensioner, even a brand new one, won't release. So you have to consider that as a possibility, but as I said earlier, the motor will clatter like a sonamabitch.

If you have managed to skip a tooth or two on the crank sprocket, which is VERY HARD because of the shape of the crank case around the sprocket, you will not hear a clattering. It will run and idle fine, just not make normal power. If this is the case, put the motor ad MDC: you can do this without pulling the head. pull the spark plugs and use a long wratchet extension to "measure the position of the pistons through the spark plug bores. When they all measure EXACTLY the same debth, the bottom half is at MDC. Now re-assemble the cam and gear as you would normally (using the MINI special tool to locate MDC on the top of the motor).

Finally if it's a lazy lifter, which I think it is, you have a couple of choices: 1) buy new rockers (there aren't separate part numbers for lifters), which are not as expensive as you might think, or 2) Try to fill your lazy lifter by revving the motor with very light oil in the car. Drain your oil, put the lightest motor oil you can find in it (non synthetic is fine), start the car and rev **** out of the motor. It's ugly, but sometimes it works. If it does, drain your oil and replace with synthetic 5w30.

 

Wow that was very informative! You have me thinking its a lifter as well. Would you be able to tell by cranking the engine over without starting?

I know that when you are torquing down the rocker arm when reinstalling it, you are going to slowly put some uneven pressure on the valve spring and arm assembly due to the position of the cam. Wonder if that action can cause one to go "Lazy".

 

Could you elaborate on this for me? I've always wondered exactly how the lifters work. From messing with them during my head swap, I assume the oil pressurizes them, pushing on the nipple looking tip with the orange cap. Would a "lazy lifter" simply be no pressurizing, causing the "nipple" to stay up inside the lifter?

.. please excuse my terminology ...

 

....I still say to check the spark plug tube clearence. Do pull that valve cover and see if one is being hit.
Being you say the car is running great, I think this would make sence. Even though in the video it sounds very bad. That may be throwing us off here.

 

The first time I took the valve cover off I looked to see if the cam was hitting the spark plug tubes. I don't think it is but how can I tell if they ARE hitting the tubes?

When I did the cam swap, like I said I had the sprocket zip tied to the chain, and it did fall just a tiny bit, but the white out mark was still lined up. I don't know if I skipped a tooth because Helix just said it would run and idle fine but not make normal power. I CAN feel the adder power with the RMW cam in then when I didn't have it in, so it is definitely making the power.

I think I might try to "fill" the lifters like Helix stated. What kind of light oil should I use? And should I rev it to redline a few times, or how should I go about doing that?

 

I highly doubt you skipped a tooth. It's pretty impossible to skip on the lower sprocket due to the timing chain cover housing design, and the cam sprocket was aligned with your marks.

You should pull the cover off and hand crank it and look for any interference with the tubes. That's what I would try.

 

Well I'm feeling very relieved right now about knowledgeable people telling me I probably didn't skip a tooth.

When I get done with all my stuff tonight I might pop the valve cover off and hand crank it to see if it is interfering with the tubes. If it is how do I "dent" them out of the way.

BTW do you guys think it is safe to drive my car a short distance of about 10 miles or so?

 

Well, there is a lot of educated speculation here. Even with the video, pictures & posted feedback - the sound in the video makes my hair hurt & thats got to be different... If the sound is comming from the chain side - then the Helix cure can work - I have seen & done the same on some early BMWs.

if the sound is all the way across the head... I wouldn't drive it

Taking the valve cover off & running the engine - it will make a bigf'en mess - but you will know there is oil to the rockers.

 

You do not have to dent the tubes. If it did not hit in mine it did not hit on yours. You would see some very obvious scoring if that was the case so move on from that idea.

 

Thanks professor. I am still going to look at the tubes just to make sure.

Stevecars60- I believe the noise is only coming from the chain side. Which Helix cure method are you talking about. The one about taking the spark plugs out and measuring, or the part about adding light oil and reving it?

 

Sadly sounds can bounce around under the hood.

Good example is this. I has a buzzing sound around 4500rpm that sounded like it came from the header, then the more I heard to closer to the chain side of the head.

Oddly it was neither, it was the center bar on the Alta intercooler panel vibrating on the intercooler.

Some sounds are hard to know where they come from, you can get it in your mind thats its in one area and you trick yourself into thinking it is.

 

Always good to check the simple things like this. Just because it does not do it on most heads doesn't mean it wont do it on "any"head. I remember there being those that did not have issues with the Schrick cam though most all did. Who knows. Not all Mini heads are cast exacly the same.
Good luck.

 

That would be the one.... I'de still remove the VC & run it. 99 44/100% won't cut it - I can't be sure based on the vid. Your call - make a good 1

The cam - as the professor says - it will not hit the tubes - the cam was designed with the tubes in mind. With the engine running you could - most likely - feel the cam by touching the tubes through the valve cover.

Post good news or the weekend FUN will be cancled & replaced immediately with Monday

 

I'm sorry Steve but I have no idea what you mean by this post...

 

I replaced my timing chain tensioner a few weeks ago. When I got the new one I tapped it on the ground to pop the tensioner out so I could compare the spri g pressure with the one I was replacing. I was nervous that it wouldn't pop out after installation so I managed to install it in the extended position. With a little pressure I was able to get the threads started very easily. I have been told that this isn't the right way to install a tensioner but it worked for me and I've had no problems. It just worried me that I wouldn't k ow for sure if it popped out once inside.

Just a thought I figured I'd share.

Just out of curiosity, what injectors are you running with that cam? My question has nothing to do with your problem. I'm about to order an RMW cam myself.

Chad

 

Remove the valve cover if you have any doubt about oil to the rockers

I would would want to know that there is oil and lots of it on the top end - your video makes speculation, even the best,100% reliable???? just want to cover all the bases - you only need to run it long enough to see the oil & look at the exact location of the noise.

The Helix fix should work if the tensioner is stuck - if it's a rocker you'll find it right away with the above.

 

I did the same thing with no ill effects.

 

@CRoth i am running MINI Madness 380 Injectors.

@steve do I have to put the intercooler back on when I have the valve cover open? If I can leave it off I know I have to cover the ends of the intake horns. Also how much oil is going to splatter and what should I try to protect from splattered oil? Meaning should I put a tarp or something over the engine besides the valve cover?

 

Yes you need the IC & yes you can control the oil with a tarp. We use to adjust hydrolic lifters with the valve covers off & the engine running - we're talking about some time involved with each valve, undo
the locknut, tighten the adjuster, tighten the lock = 8 times per 8 cylinder bank - we would cut valve covers in half, bolt the half on head to control some of the oil.

You won't have that much oil - I've done this, it's just a small PITA.

 

Well I am off to run the car with the valve cover off... I will report back with some information!

 

Well I did it and it was UGLY!!! Here is the video...

You can see oil shooting out of the one bolt!!! Is that normal? I don't think it is. I lost a **** tone of oil doing that

Can I leave the valve cover off for the night or should I put it back on?

 

OK I did it again to try and listen real closely to where the noise was coming from and it is definitley coming from the middle where the oil is spraying from the bolt. I am 99% sure that's where it is.

My question is, is that normal for the oil to be spilling out of the bolt like that. If not what should I do to fix it?!?!?! The bolt is NOT loose at all!

 

Well I am calling it a night because of darkness and I have no idea what to do at this point. Hopefully you guys will let me know whether the oil coming from the bolt is good or bad and let me know how to fix it.

I'm wondering if I take the rockers and everything off and reinstall them if they will fix it? Do I have to take the cam bolt out to do that?

 

Is the bolt you are speaking of one that holds the rocker rail on? If so I would say it should not spray at all.