Hey guys. Just recently got an RMW head/cam/injectors injectors installed and I'm now experiencing super high IAT's while idling. They drop to normal when moving 40mph+ just because air is cooling everything down. Any idea what could be causing these high air temps?

I JUST went and checked if the bpv was staying closed at idle, but when i started the car, the bpv shot right open.

Any help is always appreciated

 

What are the temps, under varying conditions?

 

when driving at highway speeds my temps are ~10-15F higher than outside temp.

when at idle, in traffic, the temp will just keep building up (i've seen it hit 249F once)

Does that help diagnose?

 

Also note that my radiator fan is broken and not working at all, not even with AC on.

 

And the AC works??? 249 is getting right up there, there are some replacement fans that are "less expensive" than OE - there is a thread.... just can't seem to find it... This a common problem, the resistor that's on the shrowd goes bad...

 

ac works perfect. will the fan (once replaced) lower intake temps? sorry im a nooob with this stuff. I just cant wrap my head around how a fan that cools the radiator will lower my intake air temps.

 

It will lower intake temps by helping to lower the under-hood temps.

The engine bay and other surrounding parts are acting like heat sinks causing the inter-cooler and related intake parts to get hotter than optimum.

Hope this helps...

 

Yofu're sure the fan does NOT work? It should kick in shortly after you turn the AC on. There are 2 speeds - 1 = AC.... I didn't think the AC would turn on with out the fan....Hmmmm..... The highest IAT I've seen is high 190s in 4mph Boston traffic, I'm guessing, at least mid to high 90s, high 80s humidity... The fan was working it's ***** off......
To answer your question, anything you can do to lower under hood temps is good -IMHO yes - a working fan IS A MUST reguardless

 

Your under-hood temps are very high.....and you engine block is pretty close glowing (not really....but hot enough that it is UNHEALTHY for a-lot of things under the hood), and you are dangerously close to overheating.....and that means your oil is very hot too (it uses Radiator fluid to co cool the oil)...and all your parts are running hotter that recommended.
Remember, one of THE most important thing to keep healthy on a modded motor is the cooling system.....you are making a lot of extra heat with a modded motor, and that the cooling system overtaxed.....that is a recipe for disaster!! If you really want to buy a new head and a head-gasket soon....keep doing what you are doing....
The fan is about a $85 at rock auto for the aftermarket one (TYC)....an exact replacement....it is a pain to change, but doable if you have removed the front bumper+bumper cover before.....if you have ever put it in full service mode, easy then.

 

One tip....the PS fan and the Radiator fan on many MINI's (till some early 2005's) till they were modified by MINI to put them on separate fuses.
It is very likely your PS cooling fan is jammed....blew the fuse....and took out you Radiator fan.
Check the FUSE!! You will likely need a new PS fan....about $180, but a much simpler install.

 

Also what size pulley are you running?
The pulley size will greatly affect your intake temps....the bigger the pulley, the higher the temps.

 

Did I mis something here? Where did he say he had high water temps? Do we know what they are? He gave IAT's but I don't see water temp?

LB

 

His Cooling fan is not working......so until things are working as designed....trouble shooting is pretty hard....and his extremely high underhood temps when not moving is likely casing a least part of his problem....heck...most MINI's overheat in minutes when idling with no fan.

 

There are too many unknowns here--and my mind is swimming with possibilities.
How is the IAT being measured? If it's accurate then 240+F is way too high. As many of you know, I've spent years measuring temperatures at 5 locations in my air intake system, and the only place that has temps that high is coming out of the SC into the IC.
The fact that IAT is 10-15 above ambient (this is called the approach, btw) during highway cruising indicates things are OK under those conditions. It's the other reading that suggests serious issues.
Do you have a Mini tuner or specialist shop nearby? I'd go and visit them.

 

OK! Where to begin with all these replies

I have a new radiator fan on order and will be here tomorrow and I will be installing it this weekend (any DIYs for putting the car in service mode or a full fan install anyone??). After installed, I will getting the car pressure bled at my mechanics. Hopefully this will = problem solved.

I just find it very strange to have ~normal coolant temps and sky rocketing IATs... Again, the IATs tease 240F at idle after ~5 mins, go back to normal when cruising low-ish RPMs at ~40+mph, and go up very fast when really pushing the car.

I measure everything in my car with a scangaugeII, so I'm not sure where the car's water/IAT sensors are, but thats where my numbers are coming from.

Thanks guys, I really don't wanna wreck $3600 in mods over a stupid cooling problem!

 

I will be checking this tonight! Maybe i'll get lucky

edit: If it's just a fuse, why would I need to replace the PS fan?

 

Did you check the ps fan /radiator fan fuse.... It is a very common cause of the radiator fan stopage on a unmodded pre-2005 mini. Might be a 1$ fuse....and a seized ps cooling fan....you radiator fan may be ok.

 

The ps fan gets beat up with road grime and debris...it is on the bottom of the car...they tend to have the bearings go bad...and get sticky. Blow it out with compressed air...and a drop of oil... But if it got stuck once...it will likely happen again.
Mini modifed many cars, and post 2005 cars were delivered with seperate fuses...
The 85 $ ps fan duct kit from mini ( moss sells it) protects the fan from grime/debris, and ensures a supply of cool air to the ps fan.
It should also improve the relilabilty of the $500 ps pump...the duct was standard on cabrio's, starting 2006...the last couple years of production for gen1 mini's.

 

which fuse is it that i should check? the fuse diagrams are confusing as hell!

 

IAT is measured by the T-MAP - the sensor on the front of the intake manifold. If you can find a Bentley manual GET 1, Some forign auto parts dealers have them in stock - I saw a Haynes at the local Auto Zone

 

I believe that unmodded cars had the ps fan/radiator fan in the engine compartment fuse box ( not sure in all honesty)....after the mod, an extra fuse us added to the factory panel inside the car.

A few words of info for the masses....if someone installs a new radatior fan on a 2005+, or one that has been modefied by the dealer...Tnew radiator fans are desgined to have a extra plug comming off it, that plugs into the ps fan(modded cars don't use this plug anymore), there will be a spare plug on modded cars after a new radiator fan is installed. The dealer justs cuts it off, wraps it in electrical tape, and stuffs it in the wire bundle, hiding it.

 

what do you mean by "modded"?

 

"Modded" in this case is when the dealer spits the ps fan from the radiator fan (was standard build on most 2005+ cars).
There is a 30 amp fuse under the hood near the air filter ( on my dealer modified 2005)...check that one, and any other fuse with a fan symbol on it.

 

Some 02 -04 cars, mine was 1, while under warranty - PS pumps failed. The replacement pumps were fused & had a different style harness = "modded".

The removed pump that came out of this car was noteable, wish I had taken a pic.

 

Zippy, you are QUICK