I would just hate to see someone try a fix, and have it be the wrong one where there is a simple check to do first that involves a $1 fuse....and the ps fan does a cost a bit more... But it is an easy 15 minutes, max, diy fix.
Mini started using a revised PS pump on the '05's...supposedly it was only to make it more quiet...but I hope it also made it more relilable...ZF is the pump OEM, and they seem to have a better reputation than the run of the mill auto supplier...then again, that is why a new pump retails for $500+.

 

The replacement is light years better, guard, housing.... There is also a fuseable link on the fan mount. Just checked... If there's a fuse anywhere- that's it. This car is an 03.
I'm told that some of these repairs also had a remote fuse - I've never seen this.

 

So the extra box by the connector on the newer fans (my old fan did not have one, but the new on I installed 2 years back had the extra box)...thought it might be a fuse or something. The newer fans seem to have some revisions to them....the fan seemed to have a revised fan blade/center section....

 

Zip, do yoy still have your old assembled unit? It was a direct wire, when the fan failed... some of were lucky - the car overheated - the expansion tank ruptured - antifreez, water - every where feb 05 -. At the time, I knew nothing about possible fire.... the fire thread has a picture of both fan assemblies

 

on my car before my fan was working and i had no coolant in my tank.... after idling for 4 minutes, id get around 220 on my water, and around 180 IAT, measured with a scanguageII. now after fixing the whole fan problem, when sitting in traffic, mid to high 80's, id get at most 160 IAT and the car still hits 220, but fan kicks in and drops it to 190, (130 for IAT), for a few minutes before it climbs again.

bottom line, fix the fan and all will be well!

 

Yup...just found it on the spare-parts/junk shelf. It was actually a replacement, for the orgional, installed by the dealer, when they did the wireing mod (my early 05' had the older wiring system) and a new coolant tank...I never complained...my dealer, Mini of Peabody did it all proactivly, at an oil change. I later added the duct kit ( when I installed the new fan, after finding the replacement getting "sticky"...the duct is a great addition...cheaper than continueing to replace fans bi-yearly.

Back to the OP.......
Fix the cooling system.....and then see if there is an issue....
Some cooling fans do fail in a second way, in which the low-speed will no longer work...also resulting in higher than optimum temps...there are severl threads on it.

 

so i just installed the new OEM rad fan.. i turned the car on, pressed A/C and sure enough the fan turned on! However, after driving today, and seeing my water temps reach 198F, i couldnt hear any fan turn on... what could this be??

ALSO.. i was just thinking, if my water temps are normal and my intake air temps are HIGH how could this be a coolant related issue? Sorry if thats a dumb question lol.

 

You SC makes heat from just compressing the air. The higher the SC reduction pulley, the more heat will be made.
The fact you SC right next to a monster heat maker...the motor. All the SC ducting is metal (cast almunium), and run through the engine compartment...heat moves from cool to hot....and underhood temps with a failed fan get crazy hot very fast....enough to overheat a car in minutes with no airflow. So step one...fix the known deficencies...the failed radiator fan.

 

fair enough. just can't correlate how a radiator fan lowers under hood temps when all its doing is blowing on the radiator to cool the coolant which is already at regular temp

thanks for the quick reply!

 

One question... The expansion tank is filled to the full line right? If it was dry, refil it, and bleeding it my be needed to "burp" the air out...failure to rebleed it if it was very low could result in an airbubble in the cooling system, and it will run with hot water temps...possiblely overheating.
Investgationally, you could remove the IC, clean it, look it over to ensure there is no blockages, and let it dry throughly, then reinstall it. This is frequently done on many mini's to improve the IC effeciency...some folks add a catch can to try to reduce the condensation of oil on the interior of the IC.
Is the Supercharger stock? I have heard of some folks having very high temps after porting it to make it more high performance....a few places actually fill/block a few ports on the SC to get more volume...this makes more heat. This with an agressive SC pulley...maybe an overdrive crank pulley...any number of things can make lots of heat...so much, you need a ton of airflow to cool the charge.

 

No problem...you are in effect removing heat from the engine block...sending to the radiator, and dumping the heat...the sc and all the ducting is bolted to the block... And if it is blazing hot...close to overheating...it conducts at least a contributing factor.....

 

whats a "normal" temp for the IAT to be at at idle in say, 80F weather? Assuming the cooling system is working flawlessly.

 

I think this poster has a 15% reduction...close to the temp you want. Bigger reduction, will be higher temp...less reduction, lower temps. Was also read on the same type of scanguage.

 

so in 80F weather, 160F or even 130F IATs at idle is normal?? That CANT be right, can it?

 

Pretty representive....from an earlier post in this thread...not sure of the reduction....
The once the IC becomes heat soaked by lack of airflow, it in effect stops working for the most part. A lightweight IC, like the OEM does get heat-soaked quickly, but the benifit is that it recovers much more quickly than heavier walled IC's that resist heat soak better, but take longer to recover. The only way to get around this is a water to air IC, with it's own radiator...or perhaps find a huge fan and a place to mount it. The high intake temps are the reason why SC'ed and turbo cars need high octane fuel...and the motors run extra rich when the IC temps get too high to help prevent detotnation/pre-ignation.
Hope all this info has helped...
And still curious, what are you running for a reduction?

 

Very informative answer! im only running 15% with stock IC so the temps should be as crazy as they are. I'm booked for a pressure bleed on the cooling system tomorrow, so we'll see how that helps

 

Umm, if your sitting in traffic with no cooling fan you have no air flowing across the radiator. It's essentially doing nothing. If you IAT's are at 249F your water temps have gotta be through the roof. You've likely already popped the head gasket. The Mini's seem to be kinda tough in regards to this. Other cars (my old M3) even the slightest movement of the water temp gauge and that head gasket was done. I did it twice in 3 years of ownership. Once from a piece of debris getting stuck in the cooling fan and it cooked it's self in under a minute.

 

I take it that the coolant tank was very low/empty? Before you go spending $$ on having it preassure bleed, you could try to DIY it. I guess you may want to determine why it was low....many S's have a coolant tank leak, or a leaky thermostat gasket...both minor, cheap, pretty easy fixes. The leaks tend to be so slow, it takes several days to notice a fluid level change. Depending on miles, a less common issue is the water pump...it has a weaphole that starts to leak a small amount of coolant, as a warning that the seal is starting to fail....very slow at first, but will usually worsen pretty quickly.
Good luck!!
I hope I haven't driven you too crazy with stuff to check, or given you a ulcer making you wonder what next. Just trying to ensure things are done in a order that minimizes wasted $$ or time...do the simple stuff, try to avoid having to do any job two times. As an interm step, you should be able to do a reasonable job diy'ing it with just some more fluid, a screwdriver, and a half hour of time...then watch the level to see if it drops.

 

So I got the fan in and a power bleed done. The fan doesn’t turn on when the car gets hotttt… and even after the flush/bleed of the coolant system the car still overheats. I noticed as well, yesterday when driving, the car was finally up to operating temp (this takes reeeeeally long to happen now btw), but after going really hard the coolant temp droppppped to the quarter mark on the stock temp gauge. I need your help with this.

 

I have an Alta 17%, JCW box and SC, and GP intercooler....and even when I had the M7 DFIC my IAT's on my scanguageII have never been higher than 20 degrees above ambient temps.

At 130* what would mean 110*+ outdoor temps

And considering air temps regulate other systems in our cars in order to run smoothly, I would think those IAT temps would be triggering other issues.....SGII must be wrong.

 

So it sounds like the radiator temp is lower.....but the car is overheating?
Are you getting power loss...shutdown...steam??
Any odd noises when the car idles, worsening overtime (rattling chain sounds, or hi pitched metal on metal scrapeing sound)?
Is is safe to say the problem is getting worse?
If you have not aleast skimmed over the rattling SC thread, you might want too if the above is true (rattling chains, getting louder, overheating).
The statement that it took a longtime for the rad temp to go up to normal, but it was overheating means that you might have a bit of a problem with coolant flow that is worsening (thermostat, water pump, or at this point possibly supercharger/waterpump PTO/drive gears.
If the car is overheating, please stop driving it...get it towed before any further dammage is done. Overheating can cause headgasket issues...along with head/deck warpage issues.
I don't mean to scare you, but this has progresses from a warm/hot intake too overheating with possible coolant flow restriction (you just had it flushed/bleed so it is safe to say it is not an airbubble or low coolant, and the rest of the coolant system has been checked/fixed).

 

Remember...if there are no odd sounds, it could be something simple like a stuck thermostat...but it sounds like you need a bit more expertise, and in a hurry than can be provided in this format.
Like GrayRaven said, the sacanguage could be wrong...but since you now have other symtoms, I think it is time to call in extra help that can physically touch the car. If you are an advanced DIY'er, I'm sure you could plug away at it.....
Please keep us updated...this info is sure to help more people in the future.