The Mini Madness website says this is a "great mod" and the 3 or 4 reviews on the website say these are the best thing since sliced bread. I always skeptical of reviews on vendors websites.

Does anybody have experience with these? Do they really make that big of a difference in shifting and throttle response. The website claims they improve shifting crispness and throttle response.

Any thought would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

Buy these or if you want something stiffer check out BSH lower engine bushings. Chad at Detroit Tuned sells both.

www.detroittuned.com

I have had the Madness bushings on my R56 for over 20,000 miles. They make a big difference! By stopping the engine from moving so much, you GREATLY reduce the torque steer that occurs during hard shifting especially in lower gears. Using the term "throttle response" might be the wrong word to use.

It really is a no-brainer mod, especially if you're modding your powertrain.

Your next bushing replacement to look at is without a doubt the steering arm bushings. Definitely on my list!

 

+1. And it is an easy mod, especially if you have a lift.

I think the lower engine ploy bushing does work. There is a lot less flex giving you better feel for clutch engagement and more direct power transfer. There is a little more NVH though.

I have the one from NM Engineering. Only $55.95 in many places.

 

That is true about the NVH. A bit more jolt when shifting but it's fun!

 

You can replace these bushings if you have time to DIY

1. Powerflex Front lower control arm bushings (get pre-pressed)
2. Powerflex rear trailing arm bushing inserts
3. WMW rear swaybar bushings and brackets with grease zerk fittings
4. NM engine torque arm mount inserts
5. Powerflex Front sway bar bushings (22.5mm for regular MCS)

You can get items #1 to #4 from waymotorworks or any other vendors
Item #5 you will have to get it from www.powerflexusa.com
If you going to replace #1 then you may as well replace #5 since you already taking the swaybar out

Hope this help

 

That is over $500 of poly. I think powerflex said it right on their website about replacement them piecemeal when it wears out versus everything at once.

If you add an aftermarket rear sway bar, you would not need #3.
If you add an aftermarket rear control arm(s), you would not need #2.
Not too sure what #1 does. Is that the wishbone you are talking about. Correct me if I am wrong, but is there a front control arm in the R56?
I have not tried #5. But it sounds interesting. What differences do you get from that?

 

OP, forgot to mention, for the 2007 R56 MCS, it came with two different styles of bushings. The later ones (and MY 2008 onward) came with a round one while the early models have a trapeziod shaped one. You may have to get under the car to check which one you have. If you are interested, just make sure you get the right one.

 

#1. $110 (pre-pressed) will make the biggest difference
#2. $70 (optional but doesn't hurt to have it installed)
#3. $25 (best hotchkis poly bushings w/ grease channels)
#4. $75 rectangular inserts for 2007 ($59.95 round inserts for 08+)
#5. $49
add $20 shipping
----------------
Total $349

You have not tried #5 because you haven't done #1. In order to replace #1 you will need to lowered the sub-frame and removed the front sway bar brackets. And since you going to do all that work then you might as well replace the frontsway bar bushings with the powerflex poly bushings.

Read this post for #1
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...placement.html

 

#1 makes a huge difference in steering feel. Gets rid of the vague, numbness that the R56 has...

It is a pain in the *** to install though

 

It is a pain in the *** to install though[/QUOTE]

It took me 5 hours to get every done, removing the swaybar brackets was a PITA with the jackstands. You gonna have to muscle those bolts. It would have been much less time consuming if I had a lift. Not sure if I ever want to do this again lol

 

I have it from NM on my R57. Not as much vibration as I had expected. It does help at launch

 

i have the NM bushings as well. makes the moment you get on and off the gas feel more snappy. don't think its physically any quicker but it feels like it is. some say perception is everything!

 

I picked up the new BSH mount while at Helix Wed. I'm looking forward to putting it in and seeing if it makes a difference. I does look nice...

 

Where can I get then pre pressed in on the Control Arm Bushings

 

http://www.waymotorworks.com/powerfl...shing-kit.html

 

How did you like your BSH mount?

 

I’ve only ever heard bad things about the BSH mount. That’s why I just got the NM bush but its still vibrates and rattles when reversing and idling. im keen to try #1 now too.

 

I have done the Polyflex torque arm bushings and the BSH street lower engine mount bushing. My vehicle a 2007 MCS, manual is completly stock with the exception of an uprated way motor works Diverter valve and the bushings. Togehter a fantastic combo. The steering does feel much tighter. I think the biggest improvement is in non-sport mode. The first time you drive with the BSH engine mount it will scare you how much the vehicle vibrates. It did vibrate a lot but especially grabbing first gear for the first time, but smoothed out in nicely past 1,500 RPM and up.

The mount needs time to break in. I was thinking about taking it out towards the middle of last week but it was fully broken in this weekend. I had two spirited runs on Saturday that I think finished the break in period, after that I noticed how much of a joy it was to drive now even in non-sport mode. Even at lower RPM like crawling in speed in stop and go traffic is pretty good.

I have had it in for about a month now and have at least 1000 miles on the mount. I still get a lot more vibration than stock if I engage first gear below 1000 RPM's. After that nothing crazy. You still "feel" not hear what I can only best describe as a little hum through the steering wheel. To me it feels like you how you want the vehicle to sound, just a slight vibration to let you know you have an engine. If you don't want to feel anything through the steering wheel then this probably isn't the mount for you. I love it. I think its perfect now that it is broken in.

I can chirp second now effortlessly, I don't fight the steering wheel as the vehicle tries to go from left to right under hard acceleration in second gear and I can find all the gears all the time and not butt up between two gates... I know you know what I mean. The vehicle doesn't feel as sloppy as it did before.

To break the mount in faster you have to drive it a little harder than you normally would a little more frequently. More sport more of the time. If you baby it then it will take much longer. I think temperature may also have an affect. It may brake in sooner in warmer weather.

I still have a vibration sweet spot somewhere between 800 RPM and 1000 RPM but most time I can completely avoid it out get out of that zone quickly.

I hope this helps. The only down side is I really, really, really want a short shifter now.

 

I did the same change. New FCAB and replaced the old style engine mount with new style and used Powerflex for both. This really improved the steering feel and the clutch feel. You do need to adjust clutch engagement RPM like above. But it all feels better than the parts with 40K on them. I am very happy with result.