No it means something was incorrect resulting in too much fluid pouring out. I would wait until the fluid that poured out was cool, then measure it and pour that amount back in. Hot fluid expands so it will be a little less when cool. I think the safest and easiest and most accurate method is to have both the car and fresh bottle of fluid cool and at the same temp. Then the amount you drain out and put back in will be the same. I have done it 4 times that way with no problems. i think the risks of measuring the temp are too prone to error as you found out.

 

That's an enormous amount to pour out.
Are you sure you did NOT take the stand pipe out when measuring fluid level?

 

Last time I did this 20K miles ago, I made sure to put the stand pipe back in, and when I untightened the drain plug this time, the stand pipe didn't come off so I am assuming it is still there. I was in such a panic that I just tried to put the drain plug back in as soon as I could.

I have no idea why it all gushed out like that... I followed the procedure closely and it wasn't supposed to happen.

 

First I want to thank you all for the detailed information on changing transmission fluid. I have a 2005 MCS with 100K. I was getting the 3-4 missed shift that others reported here. I did the 3 times change replacing with Royal Purple synthetic ATF and adding some Lubeguard Platinum for good measure. I did the level check with car running and fluid temp @ 100. My 3-4 shift problem is completely cured. So what's the problem?

All shifts are great when the transmission is just warming up. But once the transmission is up to temp, my 2 to 3 shift is quite harsh and stumbling. I usually drive in SD mode and shift with the paddle shifters. If I drive in D mode then the 1 to 2 shift is also harsh. All shifts from 3 up are fine. I've seen this 2 - 3 harsh shift problem mentioned in this thread, but it seems it was cured by the fluid change. I've put several hundred miles on the car since the fluid change and still have the harsh 2 - 3. Any recommendations from the experts?

 

I think the Lubegard may be the problem. You did not need it with the Royal Purple. Or your valve body may be damaged. Also give the car time to adjust to the new fluid. I would first do a few more fluid changes with Royal Purple only.

 

I'm done with oil changes!! I've been chasing the 3-4 harsh shift issue for close to 50k miles now and.......after 7 changes; no better.
Has anyone gone further and changed out the tranny valve body?
The EP warning light is on now and I failed my inspection. I have 60 days to fix it or....this MCS may be considered DEAD!! Help to keep her on the road will be much appreciated!!
Thanx (?)

 

I forgot to mention: My issue started around 90,000 miles. She now has over 140,000 on her. Driving an MCS carefully for 50k has been soooo frustrating!!

 

Paul --

Some good info on the valve body upgrade in this thread:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...archid=8066133

I'm contemplating (pre-emptively) doing the same thing myself. Sounds more reliable than repeated drain-and-fills and less expensive than a whole new tranny.

I see you're down on the other end of 495, but do you know any good auto transmission specialists in the general area who could do the work?

 

MINIKINS: thanx for the info. The link goes to a vbulletin messages saying there's no match found. Can u take a look and post it again? Thanx!!

 

Yeah, sorry about that....

Anywho, here's the thread:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ed-at-80k.html

Then type in "sonnax" using the Search This Thread function and you should find something like 8 posts related to a valve body transplant.

 

Hello to all here at North American Motoring. I really appreciate the forum members here showing and posting their DIY info. My girlfriends 2006 vw jetta has the 09g and the info will help a lot. The only thing I plan on doing differently is warming up the trans first, pulling the plug and level pipe, and let it drain. Then just fill 1oz over what comes out total from the top fill plug.

 

dirtbikerdude2005 - You are in luck as the VW version has a fill plug at the lower front of the trans that should be easier to access that the buried bolt in the MINI. It is toward the right, I think, recalling the trans manual pictures that it is toward the right and there are two bolts next to each other and one is the fill, I think it is the right one.

I would still do it cold with your new ATF fluid the same temp as the car. Drain, including unscrewing the overflow tube, measure it and pour in the same amount. I do not trust the accuracy of measuring the overflow pipe temp if you do not do this professionally. The cold method is fool proof.

The problem with warming up the car first is the hot fluid expands and the cold stuff you pour back will be a lesser amount, you cannot compare their volumes. You could pre-heat the fluid you are going to pour back in, but it is not likely it will be as warm as or the same temp as the stuff you drain. Thus you cannot accurately measure how much you are putting back in is actually close to the amount of warm fluid you drained.

Do it after the car has sat overnight and the new fluid bottles were stored in the car or garage with the car, then you can be sure all measured amounts are the same.

Here is a link to an online PDF of the VW transmission manual see around page 77 for how to add fluid. http://docs.jayzone.eu/erWin/VW/Jett...rbox%2009G.pdf

 

I have a 2005 Mini cooper s convertible that I love but have been VERY disappointed with problems appearing with few miles. I thought BMW was top of the line!!!
Now my transmission clunks when going from 1st to 2nd gear. I've read all the threads and pray a transmission fluid exchange will help. I have the paddles on the steering columne. Occasionally it sits there not doing anything and the cars behind me wonder "What is going on with that Mini?" It scares and embarresses me.
Any other suggestions?
Thanks, Audrey

 

Audrey, how many miles are on your car? This a do it yourself procedure or otherwise download the PDF instructions on how to do it from the How to Do it Thread and take them to a friendly shop, not the dealer. The dealer will not do this procedure. Here is a link to the thread with the PDF. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ion-fluid.html

Also, this may or may not fix your problem, but it is worth a try. Ideally you should do 2 or 3 changes a few days apart. The PDF instructions have more details.

 

I wanted to follow-up and let y'all know my path to a perfect shifting 2005 Mini S. My problem description is above and is pretty much identical to many others on this forum. I followed recommendations and did several more drain and refills without really improving the shifting. In fact the harsh downshifting seemed to get worse.

I figured it was time to try the valve body replacement. I contacted Revmax and was very satisfied with their expertise and assurance that the valve body was most likely my problem. I talked with Simon at Weaver Motorsports here in Raleigh and he said they could do the work. I told Simon I would assemble the parts and bring the car in for him to do the work.

I ordered the Revmax valve body ($659 + $250 core), transmission pan gasket ($30), transmission filter ($50), 6 quarts Toyota Type IV transmission fluid ($40). Weaver Motorsports labor charge was $650.

The result? Absolutely perfect shifting and downshifting in all gears . Much better than the car has ever shifted before!

Advice:

- If you've tried the drain and refill process without success and you have these shift symptoms, go for the valve body replace.

- Revmax says they have generally seen better results with non-synthetic transmission fluid. I went with the Toyota Type IV since it is JWS 3309 equivalent and way cheaper than the Mini fluid.

- When checking the level of the transmission fluid, make sure to have the car running when doing the check. It makes a huge difference.

- If you're in the Raleigh area, I highly recommend Simon at Weaver Motorsports for any of your Mini work.

 

MarkMini,

Sorry to hear that the fluid change did not work for you but I think I know why.
I myself was waiting for the hammer to drop as to when I would start having problems with my Auto Tranny having shifting problems.
Well, I did not wait to 100 K miles to have shifting problems or to change my fluid. Instead I changed it a 24 K miles and it was already dirty dark brown. I know it started out medium pink because I too used the JWS 3309 Fluid.
So, I did the 3 times change and still no problems but it shifted even better than before.
Since you just spent all that money to get your Auto Tranny working perfect once again, don't wait for problems to show up.
Change that fluid every 20K miles even if it does not seem to have a problem. Remember mine was already dirty at 24 K so why take a chance; think of it as a regular fluid change and save any future headaches ! ! ! ! !

I think if Mini had put the Fluid Change on the Service Schedule, no one would have any transmission problems.

 

I have '06 Mini S, auto trans, Step. No probl at 130,000 miles. Decided time to change/flush tranny fluid by local shop for foreign cars. Now the "Service Engine Soon" light and EP code on. Been cleared, comes back. Car drives like brand new. I hate to take to Mini as they will swear I need a new tranny. Any ideas?

 

You did not state who cleared the codes, you or the tranny shop. Regardless, they need to look into this issue as it did not happen before they worked on it. They may have left something disconnected. Did they read the code or do other testing? How much have you driven it. Sometimes they clear on their own after a few days.

 

Done by Foreign Car Repair. They cleared the code and it reappears. They do not recognize the code. I took to another 37 year established BMW repair place. They can't find anything wrong but also don't know what code is. Its riding/driving fine so I'm still driving it. Never had a SINGLE px. with it, ever. Serviced and cared for meticulously. I am only driver and have taken great care. P0700 appears on diagnostics.

 

Either live with it, take it to the dealer or call or email or PM Way at Way Motor Works in Atlanta. He often contributes here and runs a dedicated MINI shop and is an expert. He may know what the code means. They have a web page.

 

Thanks!!! Will do

 

Well my husband changed the fluid 3 times and shifting from 3rd to 4th is inconsistent with both paddle and automatic. I quess I'll have to try and find someone I can trsust to work on it. Anyone know someone dependable near Lagrange Ga or Atlanta at the farthest?
Audrey

 

Way Motor Works in Atlanta is one of the best independent MINI specialists in the country.

http://www.waymotorworks.com/directions.html

Dave

 

I agree, take it to Way Motor Works. As indicated in post 365 above, it may be that you need to replace the transmission valve body. Be prepared to pay $$$.

 

musicjewishcarpenter if your husband was able to change the fluid he might be mechanically inclined enough to do the valve body change himself. It really isn't that hard as long as you take your time. You might want to have your husband look over my DIY valve body swap instructions here to see if he wants to tackle it. It starts on post #223:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-at-80k-9.html

If not Way Motor Works would be the way to go.