I've already used a marion liquid cooled and even with a .5 gallon reservoir and the amount of liquid in the lines and cooler , when I put ice water in it was running at ambient temps for 15min on a 90'F day and I swear I seen below ambient for abit. But again , that ic robbed so much boost it negates its awesome cooling capability..
I think your correct though , I was seeing below ambient temps then because I had ic sprayers also and I did run a very mild alcohol in it to help flash cooling effect.
but I ordered and it's being made and should ship soon a grs motorsport liquid cooled ic , from what he told me about it and seeing how well the air to air grs worked. I'm very excited to get this liquid cooled one. Plus I will be running a 7x gallon trunk mounted reservoir and dual intercooler pumps and a BIG radiator for it so it WILL keep fluid temps down very well.. and the grs liquid cooled isn't just the standard ic wrapped in a water jacket , it's got internal cooling and abit smaller core too because it's better ability to cool so it should actually outflow the air to air motorsport version..
and I used my sprayers on the 1/4 strip , full spraying all the way down and not 1x dribble of water hit the track. Exp if you have a skidplate and a plate diaper , you could sneak them on and not risk getting the track wet at all. Exp with the skidplate diaper.

 

Spec at that time:

- RMW Head
- RMW 440c Injectors
- 1320 Camshaft
- GRS Front Mount
- 1320 Custom Remap
- JCW CAI (flap removed)
- Alta V2 17% Pulley
- Janspeed Manifold (de-cat)
- Borla Exhaust
- NGK Spark Plugs
- RMW Oil Sump Baffle

There is a TON of data on MiniTorque from dyno, drag & Time Attack on all the various setups and what's worked and what didn't. The pulley size question alone was tested to death as was water meth and everything else. The key for track was keeping top line power figures for lap after lap... that's why I went FMIC, because it delivered. Was the first GRS FMIC too big, yes, but we had to start somewhere. If I was running an R53 on track again today, would I run an FMIC? 100%. Would I try and chase 300bhp again from an M45, hell no. 265-275bhp all day everyday over 20 laps with that chassis is plenty, the rest of the lap time reductions came from adding lightness, better braking/brake cooling, oil cooling, better aero, suspension that allowed you to attack the curbs and most of all driver training.

Data speaks with a clarity that words can only aspire to.

 

GRS FMIC vs the Be Kool FMIC



Both on the same car, big core GRS vs the smaller core Be Kool that simply used the top grille for air. Like I said, it's all been tested many many times in different variations. The data is out there.

 

I spray 800cc worth of pure M1 to get around 45f IAT on a 90f day with my setup. Condensation forms on the pro alloy tmic.

 

I dropped my R53 off at RMW and Jan is actually working on a prototype he’s developed. I’m interested. I’ve seen the custom parts, he’s developed the whole system, including ditching the factory horns and front crash bar. It looks really good, and most importantly it’s designed to not rob the system of power lkk I’llke some poorly designed fmic setups.

 

This is what I'm installing.. it will put ANY front mount to shame.. unless you've gone turbo a front mount is only going to cost you such a boost drop the lower it's absolutely won't be justified by those losses..I've experimented with numerous numerous ic setups now and this SHOULD be the least amount if boost drop but yet dang near coolest iat's.. will be coldest with ice running through the 6x gallon system.

 

That is interesting, but still getting heat soaked by sitting on top of the system?
currently, my set up consists of the stock ic coated. Jan says the coating makes it as efficient as the gp ic. I asked him about the fmic losing boost and he said his design has resolved the fmic power loss. It’s still in development so I guess we’ll see.

 

I will have to see it to believe it.. running a smaller better style core could maassaaaybe prevent the boost loss but I highly doubt then if would be efficient, exp sitting in front of an atleast 180'F radiation. Plus the bends can't be overcome and those are going to effect flow too.
topmounts are VERY efficient, it's why Subaru used them too. If your running lower boost levels a front mount unfortunately will rob boost and unless the boost level is high enough to offset that , that can become an issue.
the ic isn't getting anymore heatsoaked by the intake than a front mount is by the radiator. Matter fact , my intake according to the Lazer temp never is over 130'F.
the ic doesn't get heat soaked by the intake or engine , the ic actually is what heats up the intake and surrounding areas..
with good exhaust shielding and intake box along with larger scoop , rear scoops and hood vents , the under hood heatsoak issues almost completely get eliminated.
I will post up pics of all my extra cooling mods.
And nooooooooothing good ic sprayer too can't help.
I know meth is am option but unless your spraying it directly into your sc its not providing much cooling other than cusbustion chamber Temps and the intake manifold slightly. But then your washing the coating off your sc rotors to do that AND it WILL puddle in areas if it's a bit too humid outside or not hot enough..
so imo this is why I believe topmount ,liquid cooled is the most efficient setup OTHER than ic sprayers but ic sprayers aren't track safe and are very limited unless you do a trunk mount reservoir like I am with my ic setup.

 

Your set up reminds me of a diesel EGR cooler, this is the first I’ve seen of this set up. From what I’ve been told my set up will be boosting about 19psi from the tvs900, while using the stock ic coated, and the engine will have 8.5:1 compression ratio.
I’ll keep the top mount until he shows me numbers that would benefit if swapped to a fmic set up. Ive been thinking about trying an aftermarket bonnet with the added vents and those reversed scoops, but have heard of bad fitment stories.
while the engine is being swapped I’m replacing the Quafie LSD for the Giken and the Southbend for the Giken twin disc

 

The idea is good (not really a new idea), but what happens when you're on the freeway 2pm, on a 105 degree day and the system runs out of ice ?
Seems that it'll be fine on the track, but on the street..........

Mike

 

Dont believe or trust anything Jan says anymore fwiw. Its all vaporware as he contiunes to smolder on his way down to the bottom. Its just to get funds from those still foolish. If you dont understand what that means then you are his target mark.

Fwiw I have emails from Jan going back 5 years stating the same exact thing about the intercooler and a list of over a dozen people who paid money into that and never got a thing in return other than this single intercooler I now posses. Chris Tuvenson was the last fmic build. I hope you get what you where promsied and paid for. I took my tvs setup to the max and the opnly thing I never bothered with was the 1.8 FMIC are really only worth it or needed on the track. I made 338whp on e85 with the 1.62 and other bits. Best of luck Adam I hope you finally get what your after.

 

I pitched the AC chiller setup to him found on other LSA cars. Like you say liquid will over a mater of time equalize unless there is a fluid change with "ice" or some other way to mechanically cool the water. Its just a matter of duration like again you say. could have a 1000 gallon tank eventually it will equalize. People become to fixed on this issue in general. Adam is a diffrent story/system/setup I mean most people focus on iat who dont need to and just waste time money and bandwidth talking about it. The question I often ponder is why is the desire to be romping on these cars after sitting in traffic on scorching days....so wht people can wind up their little 210whp cars? Its sort of silly. I make over 300whp have proper IAT control etc etc etc and I wouldnt be romping on my car in stop and go traffic let alone even pull it out of garage on days that would warrant such issues. Its just hype and products to sell. None of it matters unless your on a track lap after lap wot after wot. The number one solution for 99% of these desires or threads going back to 2003.......lower your boost level lol.

 

Combustion temps is whats needed when your making jam and keeping detonation at bay. That and pressure. It's not just a fixed value of iat its VE thermal dynamics. You have to understand on a higher scientific level then just a fix value or plain. Spraying into the charger isnt the same thing and only increases efficiency of the charger and density of the air going into it. I really suggest MAxium boost by Corky Bell. Meths main benefit is that of the flame front control and ability to run parameters that would otherwise be dangerous. Like putting 87 octane in a car that needs 91 but more envolved. If your not taking advantage or understanding why it is like you say pointless. Its not install and forget it. Its not that type of setup. The info out there in regards to the mini is so wrong its sad. Nobody ever branches out and reads on systems used on the cars. ITs like only reading on turbos on a honda and never reading about turbos on other engines. Your only going to get one fixed point of view and the data is skewed which is why its mostly wrong.

Anyway I digress. There is no cure all and no magic bullet in performance only continued understanding and education. Cold air no matter how achieved is pointless without the changes needed to make cold air usefull. If the system doesnt know what to do with colder air there is no point to it.

 

Here is meth in action with e85. Look at figures. Anyway all I was trying to say is know what you have, how it works and how to best utilize it yo achieve your goal....and to have a goal.

 

inner workings...well working.

 

Yours looks like it well work well, but I like the look of mine better

 

Why do people say stuff like this? Just say here is mine. I highly doubt your over 340 whp either
shiny stuff is for stupid American cars and bikes.

looks get you nothing at the track except people rolling their eyes

 

You have your choice and I have mine. Beside if there is always someone with more power than you. I'm not sure what you need that much HP for, but I like to show mine. By the way I here there's someone in Utah that is making 600 hp.

 

it's amazing on the street so far..air cooled sees lower ist cruising but under boost , it's no comparison. But even then this ic tends to run at 75-F -85 depending on how hot it Is out.. but like I said, I don't see over 120'F even at 120mph making 18psi..