Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Track Tires vs. Performance Street?

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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 02:37 PM
  #26  
MaitlandImports's Avatar
MaitlandImports
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Originally Posted by cct1
Tires Direct, for one. But when I googled today (My parents always told me if you google too much I'd go blind, but after Maitland's post I figured it was worth the risk), they were all over the place. A few months ago, they were impossible to find, which is why I bought the Nitto's instead.

Thing is, I'd still buy the Nitto's over the RA1's for the simple fact that the RA1's really should be shaved at least to 6/32...Which is where the Nitto's start at, not to mention they're about 25 bucks a tire cheaper. And the compound is the same anyway. Besides, I'm having so much damned fun on them I'm worried I'd be bummed out on something else (well, except for maybe Hoosier's)...
RA1's are a couple seconds a lap (depending on the track) slower in full tread then shaved. The nice thing is in full tread you CAN drive them to and from the track. They also last a good amount of time, so by the time you wear them low enough that you can't drive them to the track you'll be a bit more serious into the sport and you might have a tire trailer or a trailer at that point. It's going to take 4-5 HPDE's to wear them to low to drive to the track and they get faster every time you use them. It's an excellent starter tire for track drivers. But once you taste the hoosier special sauce you'll never go back to toyo's.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 06:08 PM
  #27  
howsoonisnow1985's Avatar
howsoonisnow1985
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From: Santa Cruz County Jail
Dude you got SUNNY tires!

Star Specs, XS, or RS2 will feel like you are running slicks coming from SUNNY tires.
Anther option would be is to buy used R-comps, 225/45-17 is common size for KONI and can be found for $40-100 a tire also R888s and RA1s in 235/40-17 can be found for $50-100 a tire. That way you have your Star Specs, XS, or RS2 for the street and used and cheap R-comps for the track.
 

Last edited by howsoonisnow1985; Aug 5, 2009 at 06:21 AM.
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 11:09 PM
  #28  
Some Guy's Avatar
Some Guy
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From: CT
You can also negate a lot of the issues with using to much sidewall by picking up a set of camber plates... Fixed start at ~170 for IE and adjustable start over 200 with SPC being cheapest last I checked.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 11:56 AM
  #29  
cct1's Avatar
cct1
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Originally Posted by MaitlandImports
RA1's are a couple seconds a lap (depending on the track) slower in full tread then shaved. The nice thing is in full tread you CAN drive them to and from the track. They also last a good amount of time, so by the time you wear them low enough that you can't drive them to the track you'll be a bit more serious into the sport and you might have a tire trailer or a trailer at that point. It's going to take 4-5 HPDE's to wear them to low to drive to the track and they get faster every time you use them. It's an excellent starter tire for track drivers. But once you taste the hoosier special sauce you'll never go back to toyo's.
Makes sense. I have a dedicated track set that fits in the back (I think I'm just going to get rid of the back seats, they're always down anyway); one of the things I love about the MINI is I can get all my gear and tires to the track without towing anything. It's a tight fit, but still, it's pretty cool.

I'd love to drive on Hoosier's sometime, but I just can't justify it for myself--I'm just poking around at HPDE's, as much as I'd like to try them, I'm not in that league. The other thing about Hoosier's is they just look cool!
 
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