Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain RMW Header and Cam installed and intermittent P0136 code

Old Jun 27, 2009 | 12:09 PM
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RMW Header and Cam installed and intermittent P0136 code

As the thread title states, I have been experiencing intermittent P0136 codes after my recent install of the RMW header along with the RMW cam. The SES light is illuminated and the P0136 code is thrown. There is no change in the performance of the engine immediately before or after the SES light turns on. The wierd thing is that after about 3 starts after the SES light goes on, the SES light goes off, which indicates the problem that originally caused the SES to illuminate has resolved itself. I have discussed the situation with Jan and he is willing to send me a replacement O2 sensor, but I am wondering if the O2 sensor is really defective; especially with the SES light going on and off.... I checked obd-codes.com, and the possible solutions range from wiring short, to corrosion (brand new wiring?), to defective sensor. I was thinking about swapping the pre and post O2 sensors to see what happens, but I am wondering if I have missed anything. What is really odd (at least to me it is odd) is the intermittent fail followed by resolution (the SES light turning off on its own).

Any ideas? I don't want Jan to go through the expense of sending me a replacement O2 sensor if that isn't what is failing.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2009 | 12:26 PM
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You could just trying switching out the sensors to use if it gives you a different code or the same with a different bank #. While the sensors are out, just simply inspect the wires to see if they aren't corroded.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2009 | 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by COOUUPER S
You could just trying switching out the sensors to use if it gives you a different code or the same with a different bank #. While the sensors are out, just simply inspect the wires to see if they aren't corroded.
That was what I was thinking too. Just wondering if maybe I had overlooked anything. But what is really bugging me is the intermittent nature of the code/SES light.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2009 | 02:37 PM
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You’ve already chosen the fist course of action, when you install the sensors be sure the wires are not too twisted. For the post cat sensor, wind it counter-clockwise first (thread direction), so when screwed in the wires will be lax.

Out of curiosity, do you have the J tube O2 extension model or not?
 

Last edited by k-huevo; Jul 7, 2009 at 09:55 AM. Reason: pre-wind counter-clockwise thread direction
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by k-huevo
You’ve already chosen the fist course of action, when you install the sensors be sure the wires are not too twisted. For the post cat sensor, wind it clockwise first, so when screwed in the wires will be lax.
I haven't done mine in a while, but when installing...couldn't you just plug them in after the sensors are tightened in the bung? This way the harness doesn't get all twisted.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 11:20 AM
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The connector for the post cat sensor is covered by a heat shield, it is possible (but very awkward) to put the heat shield on after the fact, and disconnecting is not easy to begin with. With an RMW J tube extension, both overlapping heat shields need to be removed to re-route wiring for required length (depending if it protrudes forward or to the rear), and because the header is so close to the body exhaust channel, R&R of the heat shields with the header in place poses a challenge; it would help to know if the OP’s header is so equipped.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 06:08 PM
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It sounds as though your post cat o2 sensor is on its way out. The new O2 should clear your problem. Along with the j extension, or if you don't want to weld go with a screw in L type from any ebay vender that is selling one. I would be very surprised if these SIMPLE things don't rectify the proble.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by caminifan
I have discussed the situation with Jan and he is willing to send me a replacement O2 sensor.
consider yourself lucky. That's one more O2 sensor than I got from Jan when the RMW header and exhaust ruined my O2 sensor on my drive home from the install/tune.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by PGT
consider yourself lucky. That's one more O2 sensor than I got from Jan when the RMW header and exhaust ruined my O2 sensor on my drive home from the install/tune.
Damn...on the drive home? That sucks.


Don't feel bad man...you're not the only one that bought all kinds of RMW hardware, only to have to remove it and sell it off because of all the issues and problems.
At least you're not scared to post about it.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 07:45 PM
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thanks....it was a fun car but my needs changed and throw in the year of frustrations with RMW and it was time to move on.

In other news, I can only imagine the calls going out on the bat-phone now....I'm sure we'll see the ''crew'' post defending RMW and blaming my issues on me (). I used to be on that phone tree....I know the drill will...the man behind the curtain and all.
 

Last edited by PGT; Jul 7, 2009 at 04:11 AM.
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by k-huevo
The connector for the post cat sensor is covered by a heat shield, it is possible (but very awkward) to put the heat shield on after the fact, and disconnecting is not easy to begin with. With an RMW J tube extension, both overlapping heat shields need to be removed to re-route wiring for required length (depending if it protrudes forward or to the rear), and because the header is so close to the body exhaust channel, R&R of the heat shields with the header in place poses a challenge; it would help to know if the OP’s header is so equipped.
The OP has been on travel and just returned. I don't think I will be able to get the car on a rack until later this week. If not this week, then it will be late next week. Once I am able to swap the sensors, I will post back.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 09:59 PM
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It's good that others are speaking out now. I heard that even the supposedly almightly 2.0 Liter motor is not running well and went to the real tuner for help. No offense but let the truth be told.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ED955S
It's good that others are speaking out now. I heard that even the supposedly almightly 2.0 Liter motor is not running well and went to the real tuner for help. No offense but let the truth be told.
I thought everyone knew the truth already NO????

well, eventually everyone would know
 
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 02:50 AM
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Originally Posted by PGT
yeah, and that was with exhaust #2 - the first RMW/Magnaflow melted my bumper valance. The second Hushpower was welded incorrectly (and added to the manifold exiting too far left in the tunnel, mashed the O2 against the heatshields - you can see how the hanger is off-center on the mounting plate too):






I took my whole system off, sent them back to RMW's fabricator for the fix (same day turnaround promised, but took several weeks before it arrived back at my place....the car was left on stands the whole time - thank god I had a beater to drive). One interesting note when taking things off - the manifold was leaking on all four (Helix installed BTW - 1mm copper and 18 ft/lbs = no worky):





Contacted a company in Australia that made me custom metal crush gaskets (at my expense...even had extras made since Jan said he'd take a couple - he bailed on that, leaving me with extras) and got the car back together, went to Charlotte for tune #2 (with a new O2 in place). Still got CEL's after all that

Then this happened:



No offer to pay for the $50 fix either (shocker, I know). I said 'F It', put the car back to stock and sold it.

If RMW is the best the MINI community has to offer, well, that's a damned shame. For all the hype....for all the thousands of dollars spent....for all the time away from my family (three days in Philly, a second trip to Philly a week later to diagnose the CEL's, the trip to Charlotte)....I had a car that had a crappy idle (every day, not the random stalling issue that everybody seemed to have even stock), CEL's after an hour's drive and a hefty bill for the work I had to do on my own to get the issue resolved. It was fun when it worked but a huge headache and NOT at all the comprehensive solution I asked for.

Let the fanboi's do their thing now....nothing posted here is untrue, no matter how much they try to say otherwise.
No wonder you sold your car ...and it was a shame as it was such a nice mini
 
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by PGT
In other news, I can only imagine the calls going out on the bat-phone now....I'm sure we'll see the ''crew'' post defending RMW and blaming my issues on me (). I used to be on that phone tree....I know the drill will...the man behind the curtain and all.
He's good at damage control for his reputation...just not his parts.


BTW...that's some pretty poor quality/fitment of that exhaust system posted above. What's with all the header flange leaks? Not good.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 07:42 AM
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the leaks were from a thick copper gasket and low torque specs to the head. The metal crush gasket with fire rings I had made sealed perfectly. I had extras made and no reports of issues from others who have used them (gnatster is one). I understand RMW changes to this style at some point (though I repeat, I had to source my own)
 
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 08:01 AM
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Surprised to see the location of this O2 sensor. One would never want to go in the lower 180 degree area with this sensor, and it seems this one is? . If this is how they still are then maybe this is the issue so many are having with failing O2 readings?

 
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 08:24 AM
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And the beat go's on Man I'm glad that I don't have to deal with this anymore
 
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 09:06 AM
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One thing that I have noticed with MC enthusiats is that for many of them it is their first modified car, so there is a lot of faith placed on people who are talked up by others on the forum. I mean look at how long Palo Uber was here screwing people before every one took action.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by ez1putt
And the beat go's on Man I'm glad that I don't have to deal with this anymore
I can say I glad I didn't get anything RMW like I wanted to a year ago. I would have sold my MINI if I had to go through issues left and right. I like only having one constant code (P0036 Running catless) just for the fact I know what the hell its caused by and its on me and no one else.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by chad1140
One thing that I have noticed with MC enthusiats is that for many of them it is their first modified car, so there is a lot of faith placed on people who are talked up by others on the forum. I mean look at how long Palo Uber was here screwing people before every one took action.
Then there are some like PGT who are no strangers to modified cars. I have learned being around gearheads all my life is if your going to play with something you better be willing to learn for yourself. When problems arise man up and figure it out on your own because someone will always be more of a part hunter then the next person which is where people get hit with the idea "modified cars are expensive" they aren't if you do the work yourself and also have "freebie" connections. To end through self-education and speaking to other gearheads about stuff you learn the power of "DOING IT RIGHT".
 
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 03:36 PM
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I hate to get back to the OP's original question, but no-one has mentioned that the mini takes 2 cycles to clear the code, even if the initial condition has gone away. So dont be fooled into thinking you have a problem, then don't etc. You have a problem -- albeit intermittent -- but I bet it is regular when the conditions are right. So every time the condition exists, it throws a code, the next cycle doesn't find the code and initiates the clearing routine. 2 cycles after that, it clears.
Since this is a self-clearing code, I'd guess you can live with it, especially as you report no adverse performance effects.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2009 | 12:03 PM
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UPDATE...

Replaced the rear (post cat) O2 sensor. After ~60 miles driving in a variety of conditions (stop-and-go city streets, highway traffic at 60 - 70 mph), no codes have been thrown after replacing the O2 sensor.

To k-huevo - the cat has a j-shaped extension that the post cat O2 sensor bolts into.

To PGT and all of the complainers - the RMW header/cat combo is a well-constructed unit; there were a bunch of approving oohs and aahs from the service techs at the shop whose lift I used.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2009 | 02:34 PM
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Nice to hear it worked out.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2009 | 03:24 PM
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Interesting...

Just me.........................

Thumper
 
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